Brands & types
....Comparisons: Kato, Sculpey (LS/TLS), Fimo,
........Colored, Glow-in-the-dark)
General Info re ALL liquid clays (summary)
....Containers & applicators ...& application
....Cleaning (brushes, etc.)
....Air bubbles
....Baking, Ovens, Safety
...."Releases"
....DVD, videos & books
Inclusions & coloring liq.clays
...powders (dry)
...paints,inks (liquid)
...washes,patinas
...solid clay ....other colored inclusions
Glue (as glue, or for repair, or embedding fabric)
Finish (clear)
Strengthener + Decoupage-finish, Layers
.....(coating or layering things... also flowers/plants, etc.)
FLAT uses
Films --not used as transfers
....basic info
...freestanding liquid clay films... inclusions... ."clings" (made on glass-tile)
.....punching ...cutouts
....marbelized-combed-dragged patterns
........made on water, glass-tile, or clay
Decals --used as transfers
CELLS
Stained glass effects (ropes of clay) +ornaments
Cloisonne, "Enameling" (stamped,carved,molds,etc.) ...metal foils & leaf
...wire +clay ropes ...other materials in cells
DIMENSIONAL uses
....Drizzling, piping
........faux "lampwork" (uncured liquid clay onto beads)
....... other (shapes cured on glass to use elsewhere...uncured on donuts/cookies...dots, etc.)
....Molds (using liq.clay in... making?)
....Cutting, mosaics
....Freestanding items
MORE USES for liquid clays
MISC ... all liquid clays
Polymer Paste
(temporary: Acrylic Mediums)

LIQUID CLAYS

NOTE:
Kato's and Fimo's versions of liquid clay came along after the 2 Liquid Sculpey versions
...therefore most of the info below will apply to any brand...

Liquid clays are basically polymer clay in liquid form (though the solid clays may have fillers and additives).
..They're being made by several manufacturers and mostly come in translucent versions --though there is one opaque version (plain LS)
..At this writing, only one of the types/brands is generally available at retail stores (Sculpey's "Translucent Liquid Sculpey"), though hopefully that will change
......(I've now seen Kato's in Joanns, may also be in Hobby Lobby... Fimo's may be available retail outside the US)
..Since LS came out first, and was the only liquid clay available, you'll often still hear all liquid clays referred to (incorrectly) as "Liquid Sculpey,"as LS, or TLS.

These liquid clays can be used in many ways!
.....Sculpey's summary & examples re some of the many uses for liquid clays
http://www.sculpey.com/sculpey201.htm

Brands & Types

NO COLOR (translucent ...clear when thin)
--Translucent Liquid Sculpey Bakable Transfer & Color Medium** (TLS) ...by Polyform/Sculpey
.............Bake and Bond ...2nd translucent liquid clay by Polyform/StudiobySculpey... same as TLS?
--Clear Kato Polyclay ...by Donna Kato & VanAken (used to be called "Kato Sauce" or KS)
--Liquid Fimo Decorating Gel ...by Eberhard Faber, maker of Fimo clays
--Castaway (Australia)
--Liquid Translucent Modelene (Australia)

COLORED (these are opaque, or at least not very translucent)
--Kato Liquid Polyclay --(all opaque?)...yellow, orange, red, violet, blue, green, black, white... in 2 sizes, sold by Kato Polyclay
--Colored Liquid Sculpey (CLS) --various colors
--Liquid Poly Glo --glow-in-the-dark colors...sold by Puffinalia
--Liquid Sculpey (LS) --whitish color ...by Polyform/Sculpey

COMPARISON: TLS vs.Kato
. . . (from Rocky Mt.PC Network Retreat):

...TLS is less transparent (more frosty-looking) than the Kato (and Fimo, which are very transparent)

... TLS was less rubbery than Kato (which was slightly more rubbery)

.. TLS is thicker than Kato (but thinner than LS?), which is thinner ... (so TLS was more likely to slightly smear metallic powders after application, and the Kato was slightly more likely to run or pool).

... the TLS was visibly matte, the Kato was somewhat shiny (after one coat was applied to paper and to polymer)
(so the Kato might show up more around the edges of a glued area)
.......however?.....I usually put a coat of TLS on the faces of my figures ...today I decided to mix in a little diluent to let it flow on and level off a little better but when I pulled it out of the oven I had extremly high gloss finish (which I did NOT want for faces). Dawn
...It would be great if we had the option of giving Translucent Liquid Sculpey a shiny finish whenever we wanted it (for transfers, etc., even though we wouldn't want them on faces..). Might it even work for original opaque-white LS too??

...both had good adhesion to paper and to clay
.......when used as glue for attaching metal pin backs to baked clay, the TLS was slightly stronger?--both had a slice of cane over top of the pinback with liquid under and over the pinback.
.............. My conclusion is that both have slightly different uses and strengths, and I use both now!! Sarajane

OTHER COMPARISONS and INFO on all:

all? liquid clays are clearest and strongest if baked at 300 degrees even for 5-10 minutes (or heated with a heat gun... avoiding breathing too much of the vapors though)

They have a fairly strong odor when baking/heated
......so may want to baked in garage or outdoors, ventilate, or bake in an enclosed container (then open outdoors, or let cool first)

clean up ...since liquid clays are somewhat sticky and thick, wipe off as much as you can with a tissue, etc
...then alcohol then dry your brush before using again (or use soap afterward for hands) ... or use a waterless hand cleaner with pumice
...some people don't clean brushes at all since liquid clay doesn't quickly dry out (see below in "Cleaning/brushes")

all liquid clay can be wet-sanded (though this is more difficult than with regular baked clay) and buffed, though Kato is already somewhat shiny;
.....using an additional clear finish may be helpful for a high gloss like Varathane, esp. over TLS.
(...Kato Polyclay is the most difficult to sand but you can get around this by adding some dishwashing liquid to your sanding water, or a small amount of Kodak PhotoFlo solution. Dotty)

TLS is not as self-leveling, as Kato liquid clay ... (so more difficult to use in molds and for cloisonne, but easier for drizzling or other situations where you want it to hold its shape a bit)

Fimo Gel is wonderfully clear... Shelley
...The only drawback I've run into so far is that it is very rubbery so you can't sand it. Jo
... it must be baked 20-30 min?... at 265???

I mixed them with some Pearl-ex powder which was very interesting....
...TLS seemed very dull in comparision and had lost a lot of the mica sparkle type qualities - not a lot of sheen in there, but interesting colour and no bubbles.
...Kato was much brighter and had some really nice glitzy swirls in it, but bubbled a heck of a lot with the Pearl Ex in it (...but maybe I have to be more careful with the mixing next time??).(for more on bubbling, see below in "Air Bubbles")
...Fimo looked very similar to kato. Shelley

As for consistency and feel:
....TLS's consistency is much more solid, and feels firmer
… Kato was the runniest and spread quite a bit
... Fimo Gel when squeezed out of the bottle is sort of 'stringy,' but when left, it does settle and doesn't spread as much as the Kato.
........both the Kato and Fimo have a sort of rubbery feel to them, very much like window clings (but can add Varathane for hardness).

Clear Kato Liquid Polyclay --glossy finish
(also known as: KatoPolyclay's Liquid PolyClay Clear Medium, and earlier as Kato Sauce)

Available in 2 oz and 8 oz plastic bottles
...at Prairiecraft, 2 sizes, plus nozzle containers, brushes, etc.
http://prairiecraft.com/page/DONNAKATOPOLYCLAY/CTGY/KCLM
...at polymerclayexpress http://polymerclayexpress.com/katoclay.html
...at D&J Hobby online (or search for... Liquid Polyclay Clear Medium)
http://www.djhobby.com/cgi-bin/indexpage.pl?http://www.djhobby.com/catalog/c-artsupplies/VANAKN.html
...at ClayAlley http://clayalley.com/kato.htm
...in Canada ...at Shades of Clay http://shadesofclay.com/Articles/products/OtherPolyclayProducts.html

... will cure at only 275 degrees F, but will be even clearer if baked at least 5 min at 300 (...or hit with a heat gun)

Kato liquid clay has a glossy finish, rather than the matte finish of TLS
.... thick applications of Kato Clear Medium may appear slightly milky cured at 300 degrees – to achieve maximum, glass like clarity, follow up with a heat gun. At between 320 and 340 degrees F, the medium clears completely. (If there is clay beneath the liquid clay ... use only Kato Polyclay brand as it is the only clay that will withstand the high temperature from the heat gun!) ...When the medium has achieved its maximum clarity, the surface will exhibit a high gloss, not satin sheen. Donna Kato

The Kato version of liquid clay is much clearer under all circumstances than the TLS (... and about the same or a bit less clear than Fimo Gel)
.... I tried both putting it on when (the item is) hot and when cool, and it's always clearer than TLS under the same conditions. Jeanne

Being quite a bit thinner in consistency, it levels out pretty quickly
.....so it can be worked in multiple layers by adding adding more over baked layer(s)
....it's quite a bit thinner than the TLS, and as such it leveled out creating very thin layers. I diluted the TLS with Diluent in order to have a more similar test (to LS).
....There are times that I want the thicker, not so quickly leveling though (such as when I am making liquid collages and using it to retain a design which I add glitter to). The Kato sauce was practically useless for that because the spirals would level out and totally lose the design. If I had to choose I would prefer a thicker version that I could thin down when I wanted to. tlc
...can thicken by drying out a bit though, or by adding glitter first to thicken Kato?

Once cured, Kato liquid clay is very flexible.
..........The Kato had a bit more of a rubber feel/flexibility than the TLS but I don't see that as being a disadvantage or an advantage. tlc
....I've been experimenting with the Kato Liquid Clay and have been pleasantly surprised at how differently it works compared to TLS. If doing transfers and applying in thin layers, it cures as clear as glass. I have used up to five thin layers with no cloudy or milky look. I do not know how hard it is or if it sands up or polishes up easily. So far, I have been able to put it on in such a way that no sanding or polishing is necessary. There are a lot fewer bubbles than TLS and it flows evenly. Jody
....they both appear to be approx. the same in transluscence (when I made liquid collages). tlc
....Kato Sauce can be sanded and polished to a high sheen. Vernon
...... it's hard to sand, but try adding some dishwashing liquid to your sanding water, or a small amount of Kodak PhotoFlo. Works great. Dotty
...Like LS, Kato Sauce can be used in the same fashion to transfer photocopy and magazine images, and to improve clay to clay bond, both raw to raw and cured to raw. Vernon
...I use Kato Sauce and TLS for extra strength ....along with the Pearl-ex powders and now other powdered pigments for making faux stained glass and for painting on clay---and a hundred other uses. I could not be without Kato Sauce or TLS. Jeanne
...I used it to do faux lampworked beads. You just add as much pearl-ex as you can to get it as thick as you want and then you paint that on your bead and then bake. Now THAT turned out nice! Ginger
...the new Kato Liquid Medium bakes with a shiny surface! No need to sand and buff, although it's not the same kind of shine get with sanding and buffing, but still quite good looking. Dotty

Kato liquid can have fairly strong odor when baking (like other liquid clays, but more "plastic-doll" type maybe)
......so may want to baked in garage or outdoors, ventilate, or bake in an enclosed container (then open outdoors, or let cool first)

Kato liquid clay tinted with Pinata inks is beautifully transparent and vivid
....(this inclusion seemed to bubble less? than when it was mixed with either the oil paints or the Pearlex.)
....the color won't bake true.
.....I was trying to mix the Kato liquid clay with the coloring agent inside the little vial....then I gently turned and drained til the whole inside is covered. ......the coloring/liquid clay on the inside stands up to water just fine. No sanding needed (and no puddling around the margins of canes applied to the surface.
....the pinata ink plus Kato liquid clay was the best liquid clay combination... (though I don't have any fimo gel to compare). Sarah
...Looked wonderful!!! like a mix between dichroic glass and raku!! Laura

Translucent Liquid Sculpey--clear ...(TLS, "Bakable Medium") --matte finish
and Liquid Sculpey--white (LS)

NOTE:
....Translucent Liquid Sculpey (TLS) is the most common form of Sculpey-Polyform's liquid clay now in use... it's fairly clear after baking
....... (most of the info below is about this clear version)
....Liquid Sculpey (LS) is their original version of liquid polymer clay, which becomes white and opaque after baking.
...... however, you'll notice that TLS is now often referred to simply as LS or Liquid Sculpey (which is technically incorrect, so don't be confused)
..........also, some people still refer to all liquid clays as "Liquid Sculpey" becasue it was the first brand of liquid clay on the market
(for CLS --pre-colored liquid clays by Sculpey, as well as other pre-colored liquid clays, see below)

The small bottles of TLS available at retail stores say "Bakable Transfer and Color Medium" in large letters on the front.

Available in retail stores (small plastic bottles with nozzle)
........at Hobby Lobby it's next to the polymer clay . . . . also A.C. Moore.
....... at Michaels...it's often not with the clay though .. . .it's in the aisle or on an aisle end cap next to the Shapelet kits, multi-clay packs, large boxes of clay, eraser clay. Debbie . . . or it's in the aisle with the kids crafts & Faster Plaster ! dgthreedgthree
.......at one store, I found it with the "Makin's" Clay/Cutters/Texture Sheets

Available by mail order (see also Supply Sources near top of page)
.......It comes in a 16 oz. can (or also a wide-mouthed bottle of 8 oz.?). . . .looks exactly like Elmer's glue in color and viscosity.
Polymer Clay Express http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/list.html
ClayAlley http://clayalley.com/premo.htm
Clay Factory of Escondido, http://www.clayfactory.net/sculpey/LS.htm
....maybe other places as well
....The new 2 oz trial size has arrived at Polymer Clay Express, (also at http://www.sculpey.com/fset_products.htm) and probably at the other online suppliers, as well) that one is $4.99 which seems like a lot if you're looking at the full pint costing $14.99. ...But, it's a great price if you just want to try it and see if it's something that agrees with you. Zig
Rings and Things http://ringsnthings.com/ carries it now.. but in 2oz bottles. -- JAN
........ the (2 oz) bottle was leaking - the seal had been broken. I had previously ordered a small bottle from PCE, and my order just arrived...and THIS little TLS bottle leaks, too...Sunny
.........How odd! My 2 oz bottle is broken, too!! I have to make sure it is stored upright, I've already made a mess with it once! Ruth
........My bottle was fine when I bought it, but I accidently knocked it off my clay table and broke the whole top off. I needed the fine control that the original top had for many projects, so I dumped a bottle of Elmer's glue into another bottle, washed it out good, made sure it was really dry, then transfered my TLS to that. The top isn't quite as fine, but it was a much better solution for me, plus I once again had a closable top. PC
PolymerClayPit (England) http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/acatalog/Product_Index_Liquid_Clay_112.html

TLS comes in the pint too, and will soon come in a half-gallon, I think... Howard at The Clay Factory mentioned larger sizes the last time we were down there. Don't know about a gallon size though. Dotty

I just bought a bottle of TLS but it reads on the bottle, "Bakable transfer & color medium." I also have another bottle of older TLS by Sculpey but the bottle looks entirely different... Joy
....Same stuff, different label....tThe only difference between the new and the older stuff is that they made the new stuff thinner (and changed the name/packaging) . It works better for doing layers and having them come out smoother. For other techniques, it might be on the thin side though. Jody

I keep 3 different consistencies of TLS on my worktable
.....thin (pours right out, upended bottle would empty itself and leave little on the walls of the bottle --for coatings, like faux enamel),
.....medium (like honey - upended bottle would empty very slowly but a coating would be left inside the bottle --for ordinary gluing jobs),
.....thick (molasses-in-January - a toothpick will stand upright in this stuff --e.g., for "snow" when mixed with paint to a marshmallow creme). Elizabeth

You will also need the Sculpey Diluent-ClaySoftener to thin the TLS or LS in order for them to work really well in some applications
........(for much more on Diluent-ClaySoftener, see Glues & Diluent)
... the newer TLS out now is thinner than it used to be because t hey have to be able to hand pour it into the 2oz. bottles
.....depending upon how much pigment or powder you add to color it, a drop or two may still be necessary. I *think* I remember (Nan) saying to make it the consistency of heavy cream (just for the cling technique??). Jody
... I did some experiments with mineral oil and Sculpey diluent as thinners, and the items which I used the mineral oil in cracked easier and had more crackling when mixed with TLS and baked..... Also the mineral oil left the TLS milkier or whiter (and less translucent) than the Sculpey diluent had. Jeanne

TLS will thicken over time & I think some batches are already thicker than others as they come from the factory.
...If you have a large jar, it's probably best to pour some into a smaller bottle or mix-n-stor container to dip your brush into. That way you're not allowing dust and stuff to fall into the large jar and the stuff stays clean. Eliz.

It usually cures just fine on vertical surfaces - just don't want to put it on too thickly. . . If you should need to use thinned LS on a vertical surface, or if you're running into problems with drips, you can hold the piece so that the LS is roughly horizontal and hit it with your heat gun or embossing gun long enough to set the surface. The piece will need a full curing when you're finished with it. Elizabeth
.......(I have always used a lot of diluent with TLS so I could get it the thickness or thinness I wanted.) Jeanne

if I need to cure TLS and I worry about it moving or pooling, I'll often apply it to a hot piece of clay to begin with... and/or use my embossing heat gun to heat the TLS. It will set it just enough to get it in the oven, and usually I won't have the problem of it running. Tess

I have found that a piece needs to cool completely before using TLS. Almost every time that I have attempted to put on TLS while item is warm it has clouded up.
. . .( The Kato liquid clay is much clearer under all circumstances that I have seen. I tried both putting it on when hot and when cool and it is clearer than TLS under the same conditions. Jeanne)

Keeping your layers of TLS thin will help keep it more translucent. Jody
....TLS does mute the colors a little (especially with more layers). Jody
.....TLS will appear more cloudy over a darker colorclay... Jody
....(However, after baking TLS at 300 degrees) the finished product (if thin) should be shiny and see through like plastic wrap). Deidre

FINISH: when it comes out of the oven, the TLS will have a matte finish.
...If you want a sheen or gloss instead of matte, you can sand and buff it
..............sanding: liquid clay is very hard when baked correctly, so start with a 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Then use a 400 and then a 600. Once it's sanded either buff it on a buffing wheel or use a glaze. Dotty
...or wipe it down with rubbing alcohol then put a clear liquid finish on it to bring back the gloss and color (Flecto's Diamond Varathane, or several coats of Future Floor Finish, Fimo mineral lacquer, etc.).

TLS & LS are harder than regular clay. I was doing some transfers with a thin coat of TLS and discovered I could sand it a lot more than I thought I could. I could also press fairly hard with my dremel and get a high shine instead of eaten clay!
.... One thing I found out last night--I've you are using TLS, you can use considerably more pressure than on LS without leaving buff marks. It seems to eat sandpaper faster, too.
The LS is tougher (than regular clay) because the stuff they need to add to make it a clay (dough) makes it softer.
...TLS is very hard, difficult to sand. In fact, I actually did some damage to my sculpture trying to deal with this. Katherine

TLS also has the advantage of being able to take more heat without discoloring.

I have had something a bit odd happen, though. After the TLS piece has been cooked, there are slightly raised areas where the toner is (on my transfer). I'm cooking the TSL at about 300 F. Some sanding takes care of it. The nice thing is that even thought there is a very thin layer, it's fairly difficult to sand through, and you can apply more pressure when buffing . Anyone else experience this "raising" effect?
...it sounds as if the TLS wasn't cured completely. It seems to need a bit higher heat than regular translucent or the opaque clays. That makes it difficult though if you have some of the latter on the outside of your piece that's not covered by the TLS. Dotty

… when i played with it using it unthinned, it was like looking thru a bubbled bathroom glass window!!! i played with it making window clings (see below). do you know what those "sticky hands" feel like? the yucky strings of gooey rubber kids can flick out and grip paper with? it kinda feels like that only not sticky. it's very soft and pliable, yet sturdy. does it run? YES!! like viscous water!! Sunni

I still use the original, white & opaque "LS" all the time, even though it can't do transparent
...it's thicker than the TLS... and also very sticky
...It's great for backfilling... patinas... and transfers (when an opaque background is wanted).
...the reason I tell people to buy the transparent if they are only going to get one, is that you can make the transparent opaque if you want to, but you can't make the opaque transparent. Jody B.

Liquid Fimo Decorating Gel

Liquid FIMO® Decorating Gel (Deko Gel, Deco Gel) (new Mar 03) ... clear only... shiney finish
...(similar to Kato's liquid clay in characteristics)
...available at Joannes at least, and online

...its very clear
....it stays very flexible ...and very rubbery (can add Varathane over if need more "hardness" or less rubbery feel?)
....no odor!???
...may yellow over time? (Jeanne R.)

...hardens at 265°F in 15-20 minutes
......If you bake the Fimo Gel at atoo low temp (like you might with a coat of Future or Flecto), it will turn completely white and sticky and never dry! Reg (other liquid clays will do this too)

The Fimo Gel is wonderfully clear....did a test on a tile just with tls, kato sauce and fimo gel...there was just no comparison. Shelley
...The only drawback I've run into so far is that it is very rubbery so you can't sand it. Jo
... it must be baked 20-30 min?... at 265???

I use Varathane on Fimo Gel all the time with no problem. JillzQ ......(should "harden" the rubbery feel too)

SUPPLIERS (no suppliers in retail shops, as far as I know)
http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/fimo.html ($5.00 for 50 ml =1.7 oz --very small bottle! --no larger ones?)
http://shop.store.yahoo.com/fimo/liquidfimogel.html
http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/acatalog/Product_Index_Liquid_Clay_112.html (England)

http://www.amaco.com/jsps/amacohome.jsp (then click on Arts & Crafts, then on FimoSoft...bottom of page ... or enter this exact phrase and spelling to search: Liquid FIMO® Decorating Gel
(MisterArt carries it too, but must accept cookies to view their site)
(England) We do have the Fimo Gel in stock. http://www.polymerclaypit.co.uk/
.....we have not actually tried it out yet, but it does look as though it's more transparent than the TLS. Info. on the 50ml. bottle says it is oven-hardening, exceptionally transparent, and extra flexible. Juliette, the Polymer Clay Pit (England)

Eberhard Faber has a brochure? that comes with? an order? http://www.sunshinecrafts.com/images/LIT127.jpg

(for much more info on Fimo's liquid clay, please see above in "Other Comparisons" )

Pre-Colored (metallics)

Liquid Sculpey & others

Colored Liquid Sculpey (CLS) ... made by Polyform
PolymerClayExpress is now carrying all the colors of CLS: gold, silver, copper, pearl (metallics), and black (non-metallic?) ...in 2 oz. & 8 oz. bottles, as well as in kits
http://polymerclayexpress.com/premo.html (middle and bottom of page...http://polymerclayexpress.com/images/cls01.jpg)
... kit containing 8 oz bottles of only the gold, silver & black Liquid Sculpey.... Clay Factory of Escondido

Krafty's Liquid Amber (2 versions, light and dark) ---prob. liquid clay colored to simulate translucent amber
http://www.kraftylady.com.au/artkla.htm

Can also use these for transfering, creating colored sheets for mosaics, texturing and more (see techniques in Ann and Karen Mitchell's book on liquid clays).

These colored liquid clays can also be mixed with other colors of oil paint, metallic powders, alcohol-based inks, etc., to get even more colors and effects.

The black CLS is very opaque, and the others probably are also since they seem to have mica inclusions in them?

The Colored Liquid Sculpey is gorgeous - the gold and silver match the Premo gold and silver (in color) and they are both very sparkly...though the silver CLS is more sparkly and clear than silver Premo. ...Not a hint of glitter in them - it's all mica-looking sparkle. . . The black is very dense (and opaque). The stuff is very matte when it's cured, so I glazed part of each swatch with Flecto just so I could see what that did. Elizabeth

Sculpey now has a gold liquid translucent? I haven't used it yet, but it looks great in the bottle. I know that the Clay Factory is carrying it and I'm pretty sure the other sites that do mail-order clay will have it also. Dotty
Sculpey Golden translucent ...Yup, that was Marie's idea. A perfect premixed match for Premo gold. She also mentioned black. Do they have that available yet? Jody
I know that Marie had mentioned black way back but hadn't seen it used or for sale then. But when I was at the Clay Factory about a week ago Howard showed me a bottle of it. (one of the small type bottles like he had at Ravensdale) So I assume that it is available. I'm going to order some this week. I don't know if it comes in the large cans or not. As for black, now that's a new one to me. Wouldn't that be great?! Perfect for back-filling, etc. Dotty

Elizabeth's use of of CLS on her rectangular "leaf" vase, and also leaves-around-glass-votive piece:
... for 4-leaf vase, 3 coats of black on the outside of the vase... 3 coats of gold inside ... & dimensional veins made with a TLS plus Rhine Gold metallic powder
...for votive: baked, then coated with 3 coats of 3 different liquid clay colors (silver and gold CLS + Aztec Bronze PearlEx mixed into TLS)... veins as above
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1416609&uid=488109

I'm looking forward to being able to make faux stained glass (leading) with black liquid clay without rolling those interminable little worms of black clay.
...I'll bet the black CLS mixed with the gold CLS will be a nice color for imitating the bronz-y look of some stained glass
...Oh! and I'll bet the gold sponged over the black kind of loosely will be a pretty faux Raku look. Elizabeth

I'm betting we can use that silver as the "lead" between stained glass (tinted TLS)
......oh oh, black polka dots on everything.......golden rims on vases!! syndee holt

I mixed just a wee bit of phthalo blue (oil paint) into a little bit of each (copper & the pearl)....... simply drop-dead gorgeous. Annie

PolymerClayExpress' lesson on making a votive with leaves of clay painted after baking with layers of colored liquid clays
http://polymerclayexpress.com/jun2003.html
. . . the inside of the vessel is also colored with CLS
...in fact, coating the inside of vessels is a great way to strengthen them as well as adding beautiful finishes

I didn't thin the CLS, just brushed it on and let it sit. It levels itself, which is why it's so good at covering fingerprints. . . . I haven't seen any difference in how you handle the CLS compared to the regular Liquid Sculpey - same curing times and temperatures seem to work.
- the square vases are glazed only on the outside - the gold CLS is matte and barely sparkly, which was a nice contrast to the high-gloss black, so I left it alone. Elizabeth

the Colored Liquid Sculpey colors are mostly metallic, and are created mostly with mica powders
... to simulate those, add Pearl Ex mica powder, e.g., or possibly metallic oil paints, into the liquid clay.
..........however, in order to get a strongly metallic effect with PearlEx, I find that you need to use a LOT of it though (which can get expensive when covering large areas)...then you'll need to dilute the mixture back down with Sculpey Diluent (now called "Clay Softener") to get to a workable viscosity. Elizabeth
(.....for more on coloring liquid clays yourself, see below in Inclusions )

Liquid Poly Glo

liquid clay which glows in the dark (new May 03). . . 6 colors (red, orange, green, aqua, blue, violet)...more translucent than opaque...offered by Puffinalia http://www.puffinalia.com/glow/liquid_poly_glo.html

What a cool thing to decorate a regular lampshade with. You could make loads of little flat backed Liquid Polyglo shapes etc (in a mold) and glue them on with PVA. Then when you turn out the light, they would be all charged up and glow away like crazy! I bet kids would love that! Emma

Think if we made faux lampwork with that.... i mean who has lampwork that glows in the dark?! cool!! . Lori
...Maybe do some faux cloisonne type patterns with using outlines of regular clay filled with the liquid clay? Emma

These would be fun to make transfer decals with?
....and/or clear transfer decals could be backed with glow in the dark clay (best to use black lines only though... colors probably wouldn't show up?
... they might be fun to use for making window clings too (esp. at Halloween). Diane B.

. . .I was thinkin' maybe I could make my own with glow-in-the-dark clay and TLS? . . .

Translucent Liquid Modelene & Castaway --Australia

Translucent Liquid Modelene...Modelene's version of regular liquid clay
... summary of ways to use (liquid clays) Liquid Translucent Modelene
http://www.modelene.com.au/tliquid.shtml

Castaway is also made by Modelene ...(just a thicker version of liquid clay than Translucent Liquid Modelene?)
... it's an awful pink, and is much the same as Liquid Sculpey in it's behaviour, although it's is a little thicker. Jenny

They show clay painting thickly with Castaway, after coloring with oil paints
...says on the bucket "pourable when wet" (meaning "unbaked"?)...but it's not "really" pourable --more like "spoonable"
....it's flexible when baked
... It's baked at 130 C (265 F)...same as Modelene or the other clays, and curing time is 20-30 minutes.
....go to http://www.paperplace.com.au where you may find more info.. .Jenny
How does Castaway differ from using TLS for clay painting.
...Well...Jody said she hadn't attained the same degree of success painting wise, with TLS.
Did you mix oils into the liquid, then paint, or did you put down some liquid & paint into it? I lay out blobs of Castaway on a tile just as I would put paint on a palette and put little blobs of oil paint next to the clay blobs...and mixed as I needed....then I just started laying on the paint with the palette knife onto another tile just as I would on a "canvas"....gradually building up the picture from background to foreground.
...I'm going to try using a brush next time because you get an entirely different effect. Jenny
. . . do you think re-baking would cause a problem? Your landscape has given me an idea for my boxes but it would require re-baking
... No problem at all....it takes multiple baking..

So far I've only used polymer clay molds (made from Modelene) for casting the Castaway),
... The molds don't need to flex for these little casts....I just used a little Vaseline as a release agent and lifted the fish out with the help of a needle tool once they were baked.
....says on the bucket "pourable when wet" (meaning "unbaked"?)...but it's not "really" pourable --more like "spoonable"
...The manufacturers say..."Your mold can be made from any product, even Castaway, that will withstand baking at 130 degC, but is best from flexible silicone 2 part mold material....
(see much more on using liquid clays in molds below in "Molds")
. . .I'm not sure about the chocolate molds...but I feel an experiment coming on..
... I sometimes just make sheets of colored TLS. It's just like the creepy crawlers I had as a kid. Too bad I didn't save those molds. lala

Castaway.... is used for making? molds (or just casting in molds?)
...For those fish (w,ebsite gone) I used a polymer clay mold with a light smearing of Vaseline as a release agent, but I've got some plaster molds I want to try, which should work just as well.
....The Castaway (liquid clay) is flexible once it's baked and really easy to remove from it's mold...I just used a needle tool to lift them out.
....The fascinating thing about these 'fish' or any other molded item made from this medium is that being flexible you can 'bend' them around surfaces etc if you want....so the possibilities are rather exciting! Now I guess I should try other liquid clays and see if they behave the same way..... Jenny

Other Liquids

For those who might want to try home made Liquid Lace:
....Combine 1 teaspoon cornflour (cornstarch) 2-3 teaspoons thin PVA glue (Sobo etc) 3/4 teaspoon acrylic white paint (or other color if desired) 2-3 drops water (if required). Mix to a consistency that will flow slightly after being applied, allowing it to smooth over. Dotty in CA
(see liquid lace made with liquid clay below in Drizzling > Other)

I have used the spray-on gold webbing with success on the (baked?) clay. It's mostly used by stampers and paper making people and can be found at places like Michael's. Makes a neat golden web on the surface of the clay. Dotty in CA

...see also faux vinyl, and Varathane + acrylic paint below (search)

GENERAL INFO on ALL liquid clays

NOTE: most liquid clay techniques can be used with any brand of liquid clay (even if only one brand is mentioned)
(....there are a few exceptions tho' when the clearest liq. clay is needed, or the thinnest, for example)

Polyform's lessons and explantory page on Translucent Liquid Sculpey & various techniques using liquid clay
http://www.sculpey.com/Products/products_access_tls.htm
http://www.sculpey.com/projects_tls.htm
Michaels' lessons and explanatory page on Liquid Sculpey & various techniques using liquid clay
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/displayArticle?articleNum=as0056
Modelene's website, with summary of ways to use (liquid clays) Liquid Trans. Modelene
http://www.modelene.com.au/tliquid.shtml
FAQ’s from Jody Bishel (the LS Queen J )
Jody’s basic LS explanation (opaque Liquid Squlpey)
http://www.sculpey.com/fset_techinfo.htm
Jody’s TLS explanation (Translucent Liquid Sculpey)
http://members.home.net/melanctha/TLSFAQpage.html
updated version? of Jody's explanation re translucent liquid clays?
http://www.theclaystore.com/pages-tutorials/polymer-clay-project-tutorials.html?action=showTut&tutID=13
Jody’s several projects using LS, enamelling, etc.
http://www0.delphi.com/polymerclay/pcc/liquidsc.html (get new add.)
Prairiecraft’s tips re the beginning of LS, etc.
http://www.prairiecraft.com/tiparc01.html
... Liquid Sculpey was originally meant to be poured into metal vacuum molds and baked, but most polyclayers use it for two purposes: (1) as "glue," to join two baked pieces of clay together, and (2) as a surface treatment, painting, washing, or stippling it on. Triche O.

summary

Liquid clays do not "dry" until heat-cured ... you must bake it after applying, that is what hardens and cures it. Tess

When liquid clays are mixed into solid clays to soften them (conditioning), the resulting clay seems to recondition faster ...and also wants to stick to itself rather than the tools.... I'm a very thorough mixer
....I also think that it buffs up easier and nicer, and I like the way the clay handles then.
....doesn't seem to change the color of other clay much at all (I've even put some in black Fimo and the change was barely noticeable.).

Liquid clays are hard to sand (but it's often not used in ways that need sanding)
....I have used a mini sanding drum (on my Dremel) for LS with success, as long as I don't try to go too fast (that tends to clog the grit). Jody B.
...I usually prefer to cut into LS with a sharp tool like an exacto knife or a linoleum cutter. ...depends on what you are trying to do. Jody B.

When I have used TLS over sculpted pieces, the trick of waiting at least an hour to allow drips to happen seems to really help identify problems...
....Also I have found the occasional noticeable drip easier to remove with a small-bladed craft knife than to sand off.

COLORING ... any of the liquid clays can be colored completely by adding tiny bits of:
.....oil paint or oil pastels... metallic or other powders (chalks, etc) ... alcohol-based inks... bit of colored clay (smooshed into it)... spices?
..... dry pigment powders
(some materials may intensify and darken during baking)
......in general, don't use acrylic paints (....a little bit may work okay tho'... and tube acrylics are thicker & may have less moisture so work better)
....see more below in "Inclusions"

You can mix your own white original "LS" from regular clear liquid clays by adding Titanium Oxide white oil paint (which will also make it opaque)

INCLUSIONS: ...adding various individual inclusions may not change the color completely (as with "coloring")
....metallic powders... metallic leaf (flakes or larger) ...mica flakes ...glitters.... sand ...herbs (see more below in Inclusions)
....tiny to small, dry, bakable items or materials (especially in thicker applications and shapes)

Layers of thin liquid clay can be built up on top of each other (with or without inclusions or coloring), but must be cured in-between.

Or liquid clay can be poured into various molds, or surrounded by clay or wire in cells, etc, to get deeper liquid clay .... various layers can be added then also (bake between)

some USES for liquid clays:
--bonding - glue (....if using the Translucent LS for bonding, best results may result from letting the parts sit overnight before baking since TLS doesn't seem as sticky as the opaque LS)
............or to act as a glue between layers of clay, or when joining two pieces of clay with an armature between.
...........adhere bits of wire, toothpick, or other material into clay (an eyepin for example) more firmly
...........make a better join between baked and unbaked clay pieces (in sculpts, eg.)
..... mend or fill cracks
......create "grout" for tiling techniques by mixing it with equal parts of colored clay.
-- strengthener ... over entire (raw or baked) pieces, or just parts ...brush liquid clay over (esp. thin areas)... see "Strengthener" below for more
--transfer images to clay ...either directly, or by creating a thin transparent decal to put onto clay (using images from copiers, certain inkjet prints, magazine pages, drawings, etc.)
--freestanding "clings"and decals for windows or other applications, etc.
--creating paints
--creating patinas, antiquing, etc.
--creating pools of transparent color in cells and depressions, as with cloisonne
--creating areas of clear but firm gel between wires or other materials, etc. (without necessarily fully containing)
--use as a smoother, by going over clay to remove fingerprints

Can also apply to wood & metal, at least ... or other bakable materials

CURING, BAKING: It's best to cure liquid clays at 300 degrees if possible (that high for 10 min, or for even for a few minutes)... this will create the best possible cure, and make the translucent the clearest it can be.... though it can be baked at normal temps just to cure it)
....If liquid clay is baked while on glass, tile, or another very smooth surface, it will be very shiny on the side where it touched.
....thin layers of liquid clay can also be cured with an embossing heat gun ...hold approx. 1" away & move gun around until the liquid clay becomes clear (30-60 sec) ... layers can be added on top by repeating these steps (can also use inclusions, tints in indiv. layers, or seal powders in, etc.)
...see more on baking below in "Safety", etc.

CLARITY: To make liquid clay really clear, Donna Kato recommends using a heat gun after baking ... and on each baked layer, if using layers, before moving on to the next layer .....(she uses Kato liquid clay... works for Fimo and Sculpey liquid clays also???)

PROBLEMS with OTHER MATERIALS
...Armor-all.. the liquid sculpey would not flow and adhere to any spot on my (raw or baked?) clay that had been in contact with Armor-all (...so could act as a "release" though?)
........(I've noticed a distinct weakening of clay when using Armor-all too ... thin pieces of clay whereit had been used often wouldn't hold up to stress.) Jeanne
...Future refuses to stick to the (baked clay) where the TLS is! ...even after several coats and rebaking, the Future just won't stick to these small areas and I have dull areas .Heather
…....hmmm, Future it works fine for me... however I had sanded and buffed the TLS first which might have left sufficient roughness on the surface to let the Future adhere. havenmaven

THIN or THICK ...CONSISTENCY:
.... thin liquid clays (when necessary) with Diluent (now called Sculpey Clay Softener)
....to thicken when necessary, let sit out overnight in a shallow container
.........to use as a glue ...I always have about about 3 different viscosities of TLS available in 3 lids, so I can choose how sticky I need for each use ...I put liquid clay in the lids & let them sit out on my worktable (the longer it sits, the thicker it gets) .....I start a new lid every month ...then I use toothpicks to dip out the stuff and use . syndee
....TLS is usually fairly loose out of the bottle or can already (but LS is usually thicker).... so I only add Diluent-Softener if needed, e.g.:
..........when adding Pearlex powder has thickened it too much..... or if you want to do a wash with it. Jody.
..........liquid clays with oil paints mixed into them will thicken over time (I've had colors in jars for years, and just added Diluent if they've thickened too much .. if there is a lot more air than TLS in the closed jar though, it will dry out too much). Jody
..............so, lessen the amt. of "head space" in your long-term containers .....or put a piece of aluminum foil or something else on the surface??
.........perhaps pouring your runny TLS in a pan or something to create a large surface to aid in evaporation might be a possibility. Having a fan blowing on it also tends to thicken the TLS... pat
.........sometimes even new bottles of TLS can be too thick to make good transfer decals with, so thin with Diluent
....if you're putting a coat of TLS on something to seal it, you usually won't need to thin it at all.
....however, the opaque LS is more likely to need thinning since the pigment soaks up the plasticiser, and also thickens as it ages. Jody
(....see also Air Bubbles below)

???Liquid Sculpey sounds to me to be nothing more than a Plastisol ink. Plastisol inks have been used in Silk Screen Printing for years because they are so much easier to work with than water based inks - they don't dry and clog the screens unless you cure them with heat. If you want to learn some more tricks on using this liquid sculpey for t-shirts, you might want to pick up a book at your local library on Silk Screening with Plastisol.
Contact your local Silk Screen supply store and ask them about Plastisol. It's also a liquid Poly Vinyl Chloride (PVC) and I'd venture to say it comes in more colors and costs less than sculpey because they sell it in large quantities and it has been around for years.

HEALTH note:
Though unlikely, it is possible to get an allergic reaction to liquid clays (especially rashes)...see Safety > Rashes if you suspect this might be happening, and to find info on barrier creams and gloves)
.....I think it's best to use a brush to apply it! I don't like to hear about people using their fingers to apply TLS (not that I think it's all that dangerous but I'm a believer in lightening the chemical load on our bodies in whatever way we can). Jody
......many do use their fingers tho' . . .
....if you use a heat gun on liquid clay, try not to inhale great gulps of it while doing so

SOME EXAMPLES of ABOVE USES

Donna's lesson on using many thin layers of Kato (liquid clay)
....she also put something in-between each layer.... in this case to cover a black clay ball (held on skewer):
.......(let cool after each heated stage)
....Perfect Pearls metallic powder all over....rubberstamp finger-rubbed with Genesis paint...bake 30 min at 275...Kato all over and set w/ heat gun...stamp with Perfect Medium (glycerin?) dusted with Perfect Pearl powder & blow off excess & seal this detail only by dabbing w/ Kato (don't smear) & set with heat gun... layer of Kato & set with heat gun...tiny drawing(s) withYasutomo Gel Xtreme pens & let dry & dab Kato to seal & set w/ heat gun..layer of Kato & set with heat gun... can apply more coats of Kato, setting after each if wanted... after all layers are done, bake 30 min.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1820587,00.html

If you get a hairline crack in a sculpture, you can take a little and thin some of the base into it and fill the crack---Rebake and I've done this and cannot find the crack.

"patina"...glaze,etc....--in the polymer world, the term patina seems to have come to refer to one of various surface effects which cause the surface to look softened, mellowed, or marked as from age or from use (original definition: a film formed on copper and bronze by exposure, or by treatment with acids, etc.)
... the original background surface or color usually shows through in some way . . . either in certain areas, or through a translucent patina layer
. . . there are various ways to create patinas on polymer clay: acrylic paints, liquid clays (with inclusions such as powders or oil paints), finishes (such as Future, with inclusions), colored pencils, alcohol-based inks, e.g.
...these can be stippled on with a brush, sponge, etc., or they can be painted on to cover all or just certain areas, applied then rubbed off to remain only in the crevices, etc.
...these can also be layered over each other, or used with other surface manipulations like transfers, stampings, sheets created in vairous ways, etc.

Prisma Glitters by Gick, or glitters by Jones Tones, work well with the clay and with TLS as they are designed to be used on fabric and heat set in textile mediums and washed and dried. Patty B.
...some of the glitters change colors... Sarajane

............(see many more uses in the sub-categories below) .............

CONTAINERS & APPLICATORS... and application

Donna Kato offers a brush which is good for applying liquid clay ....short (1/2") bristle and long bristle brushes (soft sheep wool?) by Yasumoto
http://prairiecraft.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=KCLM
.....I found some teeny, bendable, disposable, brushes and applicators that are great for applying superglue (or liquid clay or Diluent, Pearl-Ex, etc.).. the Microbrush has bristles like a tiny paintbrush, and the Ultrabrush has non-absorbent fuzzy fiber pads (in 3 sizes) ... I got them at my hobby store in pkgs. of 10. Diane B. (for more application ideas, see Glues > Superglues)
http://www.microbrush.com/products.asp?area=3&lang=13&categNum=11&market=4 (click on each, then hover over pics)
...TLS is excellent for sealing in surface powder. …put on a thin, thin, thin layer (not thinned with diluent)..... what i do is use my finger and apply it directly from the TLS container by just touching lightly with the dipped finger and spreading that wee bit with other undipped fingers of the same hand.... that way it doesn't run. Sunni
...some people feel that one shouldn't touch liquid clay with the skin too much though

When TLS is in a metal can, it's just a pain to pour off. I have a steady hand so I slowly tilt the can or jar until I have a thin line of TLS flowing into the squeeze bottle. Once I've got it lined up and steady, I'll tip it a little more so it comes out faster. Maybe you could put a piece of mylar against the can where the rim of the lid goes in and kind of cup it a little to make a spout for the TLS to flow down. Jody

I transfer a portion of my TLS from the large can to a large Jr. size baby food jar for every day use.... If the opening of your container is smaller than the one on the baby food jar some kind of funnel is a good idea. Dotty
....when I need to mix a bigger amount, I use paper cups with the wax coating.
...plastic film containers . . . Does Liquid Sculpey eventually eat away at this kind of plastic?
Hasn't eaten through the one I've had some in for 6 months. I used the translucent kind (of film cannister?), liberated from the trash bin in the cart where people fill out their envelopes for processing at Costco. I usually pick up a couple each time we shop there. The translucent type let you see the color inside very well.

for small amounts of mixed colors (using immediately or storing):
.....snap-lid containers meant for acrylic paints can work well
...... American Science and Surplus http://www.sciplus.com has those little plastic snap-shut jars that come with craft kits ... they come hooked together in a row, though I cut mine apart. They're great for saving liquid clay colors (and also for Flecto + Pearlex mixes). Jody B.
http://www.sculpey.com/sculpey401f.htm
...small glass bottles like those for contact lenses or from hospitals or vets

The stuff is so gooey that I tried putting it in a small squeeze bottle to apply it. Works great!
....I baked some clay sheets then drew on them with the squeeze bottle, and dusted it with embossing powder. It takes a bit of practice with the bottle and I had to wipe the tip now and again. Keep the bottle tip down between projects, if possible (to avoid bubbles and air inside which will hasten thickening)
. I also tried tapping the bottle to get any air bubbles out. Jody B.

I've had Liquid Sculpey in plastic glue syringes for months with no problem. As I used it up I refilled them. The plastic kind of looks similar to the medicine cups but it is a lot heavier. I think the cups are a different type of plastic.

There are applicator bottles that are used in the fabric dyeing industry that have different size metal tips, from .5mm to .9mm (I believe). The bottles can be found in different sizes. I have the 1/2 oz bottle and I find it great for applying glues and other liquids. Instead of taking off the metal tip everytime I'm finished I just insert a pin into the metal tip to keep it from firming up. If interested try these web sites: http:// www.dharmatrading.com and http://www.jacquardproducts.com
......or check for the metal tips packages (including one bottle) at crafts stores (see more below in Piping sub-category)
...Lynda finds that using the larger tips (under added or attached areas) results in excess glue being visible, so she uses a smaller tip and less liquid clay
....Lee Valley's small, brush-like disposable applicators (lifted directly from the dentistry business) let you apply tiny amounts of oil, paint, glue, stain, etc., very accurately and controllably, and also good for cleaning...
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?SID=&ccurrency=2&page=45857&category=1,110,42967
...However, Lynda says that a clay color (like red) can get onto the tip of the applicator . . .
...and if the TLS is too thick, it'll bleed onto lighter colors (though she used this colored TLS to color her figure's cheeks)

squeeze bottles to use with LS: Sometimes craft or art supply stores will have them, but I found that the easiest thing is to get them from a beauty supply shop. Or from someone who dyes her hair, because those bottles work just great. The Dick Blick near me had the same bottle that diluent comes in if you want a smaller size, and you can reuse diluent bottles. American Science and surplus may also have them. If you need to close up a squeeze bottle that has LS in it and you dont have a cap to put over the tip, unscrew the top and put a small piece of plastic wrap over the mouth of the bottle and screw the cap back on. Jody
I found some great squeeze bottles with different size removable (interchangeable) metal tips at Jo Ann's Fabrics and Crafts. The work great for Liquid Sculpey. I used them for backfilling stamps to make faux enamel. Marlene

I just got a really nice little storage unit for my TLS colors from American Science and Surplus. It's #89964 Box and Canisters for $4.95. It's an aluminum box with 20 little glass topped canisters inside. The whole thing is 6 1/2" x 5 1/4" and very lightweight. I wouldn't check it with my baggage because the canisters aren't screw tops, but I don't think it would be a problem to carry on a plane. American Science and Surplus is online at: http://www.sciplus.com Jody B.
These are way cool boxes--I have my peal-ex powders in mine, and covered the box lid with pc to go with my tools. Sarajane H
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.asp?page=32171&category=1,43326,43328&ccurrency=1&SID= Lee Valley here in Canada carries the same containers in either a hinged metal container or a cardboard box. They come in various sizes and are VERY handy. ...their US prices seem to be considerably lower than AS&S. BTW, the lids are pretty tight, but I'd put an elastic or some string around the entire box before carrying them anywhere that they might be at risk of opening up. When the box lid is closed the lids on the containers can't open (but they may not be watertight - you should check this before using anything too runny - TLS is probably ok as it is pretty thick). Vicki in Vancouver

...talking about containers to store colored tls in... i get a bunch of those little serum bottles (about 1.5" hi) from my vets once a week. they give me both plastic and glass. the plastic melts in the oven at the required temperatures, so i was just gonna chuck the plastic ones. when i realized with their little rubber stoppers, the tiny bottles are perfect for storing the tls in that's been colored. i work in small amounts anyway, so these were just perfect!! i now have a bunch of colors and an unlimited supply of containers. and they are not reacting with the tls - so far (i've only been using them for a week, now)!!. Sunni

(for loading into small bottles) Well, I just squeeze the bottle, put the opening on the surface of the LS and ease the bottle open. Suction draws the LS into the bottle. :-) Kimba

a simple way to pack LS (to avoid spilling when traveling to classes, etc. )… I have mine in squeeze bottles
... just remove the cap, put a piece of plastic wrap or baggie over the mouth of the bottle and screw the lid back on.
.....I still put the bottles in a baggie but I've had no leaks even when I checked my luggage. Jody B.

other application techniques

to apply liquid clay to a on a curved or vertical surface, where gravity will make it run down or spread
...use a heatgun to firm up, or to completely cure
..apply in thin layers which are less likely to run ... bake between each layer
...use a thicker brand of liquid clay (LS or TLS)
...thicken the liquid clay by leaving it exposed to air awhile... or thicken it with an inclusion such as mica powder, pigments, chalk, etc.
...contain the liquid clay, either permanently (see "cells" below)... or temporarily with something else which can be easily removed later (possibly using a barrier of alum. foil, etc., or Repel Gel)... or cut off with scissors or blade

apply liquid clay on a piece hot out of the oven... the heat sets it instantly it for great dimensional effects ...then re-bake for strength.Emily

CLEANING . . . brushes & fabric

I don't clean my brushes ...never have... not even way back when the first liquid Sculpey became available.
....I just squeeze the brush well using a shop towel or paper towels, stick the brush in my jar that holds stuff, and that's it. Never had a problem. (yet!) . . . I use a good brush (just one) to make sure the fibers don't come out, and then I just leave it sitting in my jar of TLS ( after using different colors of TLS, I take a paper towel and vigorously wipe off the TSLand then just put the brush back into the untinted liquid. Dotty
....that's all I have ever done also.. I clean TLS off my brush with a tissue, then I just stick the brush (business end up) into a jar. Patti MD
...I cover my TLS brushes only to keep off dust and dirt. I usually use aluminum foil or plastic wrap, but they are exposed to some air. Seth
...I use Diluent-Softener to clean Liquid Sculpey out of my brushes. I think that most people do not clean their brushes, but I find that the brushes stay in better shape longer when I put a couple of drops of diluent on the brush and clean just a little by brushing on a paper towel. Jeanne

I clean my brushes with paint thinner. Jody B.

When Jody went to Polyform on a visit, she found out that plain old rubbing alcohol will clean up TLS (on brushes, etc.).) Cindy
...Yup, but make darn sure you get the alcohol in the brush dried out before you next use it to mix TLS....alcohol messes up the TLS if you mix it in.. Jody
...One person accidentally thinned her TLS with rubbing alcohol (so she used a lot).... it made the TLS bubble up- kind of a foamy look.

To clean my brushes I use "Fast Orange" waterless hand cleaner (their pumice formula -- they also make one without, but that doesn't work like the pumice formula).
... WalMart carries it; automotive supply stores have it; I've even seen it in grocery stores. There are similar brands, but this is the only one I'm familiar with. I love this stuff! It cleans my hands, my brushes and anything else that's clay-dirty.
...Just work a bit into the bristles of the brush, then rinse the brush well with tap water. Comes out looking like new! Bonnie

For small things, use hand wipes (those without alcohol okay too?)

I noticed that when I was cleaning the brush I had used with the TLS, it left a very noticeable yellow tinge to the paper towel I was drying them...Lyrael
....I have had that happen with every brush I've ever used with TLS. I clean them with alcohol now and it works really well, but I still see brown gunk off the brushes. It never comes off till I go to clean my brush. Must be something in the brush. The only thing I've used them for is acrylics. And I clean them after each use. So I dont know. I wouldn't worry about it unless it's coming off on your clay. You might want to get a brand new brush and try again. Cindy
....or keep some brushes just to use with liquid clays
...The yellow may have been some color from the brush itself. The chemicals in the SuperSculpey may have leached them out. I had this happen with two brushes. Dotty CA

As for removing liquid clay from fabric, soak off as much as you can by laying the TLS side down on a towel, and then pressing with another towel on the back side. Don't press from front to back, as this will only press the TLS deeper into the material. (I worked at Sears in the ladies dress department once and this is what they taught us to do when something needed to be removed from a dress, and it worked.)
...Then add a little Sculpey Diluent and do the same thing several more times.
...Then gently wipe the surface with a soft piece of material soaked in some Diluent.
....Then wash the top in COLD water (don't heat the water or any residue of TLS will harden and won't let go).
Can't hurt to use some Shout also. Dotty

AIR BUBBLES

I think that there's already air present in the liquid clay when you buy it....the process of making it and then shipping it....those bubbles may be nearly microscopic . . . the liquid itself is so thick that air bubbles can't rise, but when you apply heat, the air bubbles expand and meld with nearby air bubbles, getting larger and visible, but they're still not big enough to rise against that thick fluid.
....I believe that adding Diluent to the liquid will make bubbles less of a problem by making the fluid less viscous, allowing the bubbles to rise to the surface and burst.
....if you're using layers of liquid clay, keeping them very thin helps . . . applying several very thin coats, with several curings in between, will give you a clearer end result than using one thick coat. Elizabeth
....and older, opaque white LS is even thicker than TLS

I have been pleasantly surprised at how differently Kato Liquid Clay works compared to TLS. .... there are a lot fewer bubbles than the TLS, and it flows evenly. Jody (primarily because it's naturally thinner?)

DON'T shake your liquid clay! ...if you want to stir it, treat it like varnish and stir carefully so you don't trap air in it. The question of rather to stir at all has come up lately. Until now,I have not. I keep both kinds in squeeze bottles and glue needles instead. Jody B.
...(sheet of liquid clay) ...It's the stirring that is causing the problem if the bubbles appear after mixing something into the TLS.
...so bump the bottom of container several times on your work surface (after letting the piece sit for a while)....this helps to bring the bubbles to the surface. Dotty
...try letting the liquid clay sit for an hour or so on a level surface....the bubbles should rise to the top and you can prick them with a pin. Irene
...... maybe an hour isn't enough - you can let it sit overnight and see if that's better.

To color liquid clays, acrylic paints contain water and should not be mixed into them or there will be bubbling and/or later white spots (some people feel that using only a little works okay though, and perhaps the tube acrylics which contain less water might work a bit)
............I found that when I had a nearly 50-50 mix of acrylic craft paint and TLS, the bubbles were there no matter how long it sat. Janey
...some things that can be used instead are oil paints, oil pastels, Genesis paints (maybe not though), alcohol-based inks like Pinata, metallic powders like Pearl-Ex
...it doesn't take much addtive to color liquid clays though, and the color will darken during baking so consider that too

liquid clays baked in silicone molds you make yourself can result in bubble-like areas on the surfaces of the baked liquid clay cast which can be caused by the silicone mold material itself
....if you look at the interior surface of some of the cured silicone molds with a 10x jeweler's loupe, you can see air bubbles/imperfections... later when baking regular opaque clays inside these molds, you won't see the imperfections caused by this too much, but they will definitely show up on the liquid clays or on PMC. ...some brands (of silicone molds) seem to be particularly prone to the problem.
.......to avoid getting little air bubbles or bumps: (I was using Miracle Mold):
(1) allow the liquid clay settle for a bit before baking (...at least 30 minutes)
(2) don't incorporate air into the silicone when first mixing the two components. caneguru
.... I should have let the mold with the Liquid Sculpey sit until all the bubbles had worked to the surface (there are several pin holes in my finished product).
(...see more on this below in "Molds, Stamps, Texture sheets, Antiquing" below)

(transfers especially )....the way I get around the bubbles is to let the first L.S. layer "rest" for 20 minutes or so BEFORE I apply the transfer (this allows the air bubbles to rise to the surface and "pop") (or I pop them).... then, I carefully press the transfer into the L.S. using that "circular" method.... finally, I let the L.S./transfer rest an additional 30 minutes before I bake (but be SURE you don't shift or move the transfer, or it will come out a blur!)
.....to see the bubbles in a sheet for yourself (if not taking precautions), try a plain sample of L.S. -- apply a layer of it directly onto a ceramic tile. Let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes, then come back and look at it -- you will see minute air bubbles which magically appear, even though they didn't seem to be there when you applied the L.S.!! . Need2Bead
(.....see "Transfers" above also)

. . . for more on bubbles, see above in "Other Comparisons"

BAKING, OVENS, SAFETY

Liquid Sculpey has a much stronger smell while baking than solid polymer clays (because it has so much more plasticiser??) . . . so many people prefer to bake it outside or away from living areas. . . if that’s not possible, at least ventilate very well while baking and remove small animals, and babies.

You will hear different opinions regarding the safety of LS. After all it is a manufacturing material that has been picked up by polymer clay artists. I use some easy precautions. I never bake it in my kitchen oven, I have a dedicated clay oven on my porch so I don't have to worry about polymer fumes of any kind getting in my house. I aso use an oven thermometer to be sure the oven is set correctly. I don't use my fingers to apply it and I keep my hands and my tools clean. And of course, don't burn it. That shouldn't be a problem since the TLS can take more heat than the clay can. Jody Bishel

If you use more than the occasional small amount of TLS, that build up will happen even faster in your oven. Just to be on the safe side, I recommend that you use a roaster pan if you want to cure TLS in your kitchen oven at all. Jody

A good warning,Kelly! Anything that clay would react to, LS will eat up even faster. So if you have eyeglasses for close work, be very careful about where you leave them. If they are the kind with plastic lenses, contact with clay or LS will damage them!

I think that latex gloves would be wise if you will be getting your hands in this stuff. Judging by the little bit I dripped on a piece of paper, it leaches a lot of plasticiser. Jody B.

Any time you use paint thinner or turpentine, etc., they must be completely dry before baking, since they are flammable…

Baking will make TLS more translucent . . . thin sheets will be flexible.

And you should bake (most liquid clays) at 300 degrees! I thought that was a typo. . . I have been trying to bake it at a LOWER temperature (230-250) whenever possible. Maybe that's why these TLS'd pieces still have an opaque look to them! Elizabeth
...It's recommended that it reach 300. I cure mine for a half an hour at 260 and then up it to 300 for the last ten minutes. Seems like when I let it "rest" it settles out. And it does get a bit more firm. But I don't think this is a necessity. Cindy

Actually, TLS won't solidify unless it's left out for a long, long time. But what does happen is that it settles or smoothes somewhat when left to rest a bit. This is great if you have put it over a textured surface and you want it to settle into the recesses sort of like antiquing. I've used this technique on a number of my kaleidoscopes with nice results. Dotty

white Liquid Sculpey three small aluminum or glass dishes to mix liquid clay oil paint - medium green, medium blue, yellow

Any time TLS crumbles, it is one of two things. Either the temperature was too low or it wasn't baked long enough. I use 10-15 min. for something with a coat of TLS on it (by that I mean that it won't run on a vertical surface), and add time for thicker applications like faux enameling.
...That's probably the cause (or your piece cracked when dunked in cold water after being baked at 260) . I don't go under 275 (pre heated) and that's when I have translucent clay that I want to protect, or I plan to rebake and will get up to 300 on the last bake Jody B.

. . . (That's because I've done layers of TLS surface decoration and set them with a heat gun.) To be sure they are cured, I give them the normal fifteen minutes at 300 when I get to the last layer. Jody

<< I recently bought my first can of TLS, and I was surprised to see that the only instructions on it said, "Bake in oven at 275 degrees F. Clean up with alcohol." I thought it was essential to bake it at 300 degrees, for at least some time. What gives here? Is the temp diff. for the LS than the TLS?>> Diane B.
They are playing it safe (on the can instructions) and deferring to the temperature for curing clay, but if you want something to be really clear you need to go up to 300 degrees. Jody
Jody says she may also go up to 325 degrees, but watches it carefully and ventilates fully.
Interesting! I've noticed that my transfers baked at 275 were less durable and colorful than the ones I do at 300. I use 300 always for the transfers now. I like the idea others have mentioned when using both clay and LS of raising the temp to 300 for 10 minutes after baking thoroughly. Has anyone ever had a problem with doing this? Julia
I've rebaked Liquid Sculpey lots of times with no problems. I've been doing so much multiple baking that I just bake it long enough to set it and then make sure it gets a good bake by the time the piece is complete.

RELEASES

Armor-all??.. the liquid sculpey would not flow and adhere to any spot on my clay that had been in contact with Armor-all (...so could act as a "release" for liquid clays?)

any slick, bakable surface (shiny metal, glass, ceramic tile, etc) also acts as a "realse" for liquid clay because it can be peeled away after baking

Repel Gel will not act as a relase for liquid clays (at least not Kato liquid clay)

VIDEOS, DVDs & BOOKS

VIDEO: Jody Bishel . . . Exploring Liquid Sculpey covers various uses for Liquid Sculpey:
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/pages/vid/pc13.html
Color (mixing artists' oils and Pearlex powders in LS & TLS to create custom colors and effects), Pin Marbleizing (see short video clip on website), Gold Layering (impressing clay with acrylic paint in recesses and gold powder on high areas + 2 coats & bakings of TLS), Layered Patinas (making a footed vessel? over a light bulb--broken out; spotty tinted TLS, baked; TLS and powder on outside and TLS glaze on inside; adds folded, ribbed, patinated leaves . . . using Liquid Sculpey in a glue gun. Following the final baking of the piece, colored Liquid Sculpey is applied to the ribs of the leaves and setting with a heat gun), Faux Enameling (cloisonne), Backfilling Images with liquid clay (carved, stamped?... removing excess and sanding), Transfers (TLS on glass & others) . .tips on avoiding bubbles and using as glue

VIDEO: Nan Roche . . . Special Techniques in Polymer Clay
http://www.mindstorm-inc.com/pages/vid/pc10.html
In one segment, she uses LS to make marbled paper patterns by floating liquid clay on water (with powders and paints used to give color), then transfers the pattern to beads, etc. (see below in Films-Decals)

DVD: Donna Kato . . .Tips Tricks and Techniques in Polymer Clay (double DVD), at prairiecraft.com
http://prairiecraft.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=KB-DVD-TTT&Category_Code=B&Product_Count=6
.... 3.5 hours 2 ... includes basic conditioning, Skinner blends, beads, translucent layerings, ikat, mokume gane, metallic effects, Kato Liquid Medium, how to make a box, and finishing techniques.

DVD: Angie Scarr. . . Angie Scarr Miniatures: Liquid Fimo
http://www.polkadotcreations.com/books/detail_ssas06.html
miniature food making with liquid clay (in 1/12th and other scales) --projects for jams, stews, and other foods-- also stained glass windows.... 90 min

BOOK: Liquid Polymer Clay: Fabulous New Techniques for Making Jewelry and Home Accents, by Ann and Karen Mitchell
... diff's betw. LS and Kato liquid clay, transfers, tinting, " impression glazing " (antiquing with TLS and oil paint), marbelizing, cloisonne, stained glass, lampwork beads, clay "fabric," mosaics, silicone molds, as adhesive, plus some jewelry tech's ...144 pgs ......22 projects

Other books and videos have projects using liquid clay techniques as well.

INCLUSIONS ... & COLORING liquid clays

Liquid clays can be colored in a number of ways with dry materials or some liquid materials
(some will totally color it, others will have a more discrete effect):
SUMMARY
.... oil paints...or oil pastel shavings
....alcohol-based inks (like Pinata)
....heat-set paints & inks (I think)
...metallic powders (like Pearl Ex or real-metal powders)
... blush powder and eyeshadow ...or powder from chalks
....artist's pigments (such as Jaquard or Genisis Artist Colors (from AMACO)
...also more separate bits like flakes of bits of metallic leaf.... mica flakes
... glitters .... herbs... sand (& colored play sand)
...little "things" that are bakable and small, etc... bits of nature...
...even flakes or powders of baked solid clay or baked liquid clay (baked thin, then crushed...or ground in food processor or by hand)
...larger bakable things can be embedded in larger amounts of liquid clay (in molds, e.g.)

Any of the above can also be combined into the same liquid clay.

Any material containing very much water should not be used in liquid clays because the water will turn to steam during baking and create bubbles or rough eruptions
(acrylic paints, watercolor paints, water-based inks, etc.)

Go slow when adding anything to liquid clays because they will become opaque rather quickly.

It might be a good idea to use something disposable when mixing colors or other inclusions into liquid clays... then can just toss after use.
...e.g., patty papers (small parchment papers)... or bits of alum. foil ...or Ziplocs

for storing mixed-up colors of liquid clay, see above in Containers

I've used a heat gun to partially cure liquid clays occasionally before baking (thanks for that tip, Jody!)
. .just set an oven thermometer in front of the heat gun to determine how far away to hold it to heat the piece to the temp you need

To make liquid clay really clear, Donna Kato recommends using a heat gun after baking... and on each baked layer if using layers before moving on to the next layer (works also for Fimo and Sculpey liquid clays???)

Donna Kato put something in-between each thin layer of Kato (liquid clay)... in this case to cover a black clay ball (held on skewer):
.......(let cool after each heated stage)
....Perfect Pearls metallic powder all over....rubberstamp finger-rubbed with Genesis paint...bake 30 min at 275...Kato all over and set w/ heat gun...stamp with Perfect Medium (glycerin?) dusted with Perfect Pearl powder & blow off excess & seal this detail only by dabbing w/ Kato (don't smear) & set with heat gun... layer of Kato & set with heat gun...tiny drawing(s) withYasutomo Gel Xtreme pens & let dry & dab Kato to seal & set w/ heat gun..layer of Kato & set with heat gun
... can apply more coats of Kato, setting after each if wanted... after all layers are done, bake 30 min.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1820587,00.html

Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and oils, powders, pencils ...on clay, making clings, etc.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html
...pallette of colors using pearlex powders and oil paints and thinned with diluent.... then draw the pin through all the color drops and bake at 300 for 20 min. Body of the cabs is gold Premo.

silver metallic leaf, or a light colored clay, can be used underneath the liquid clay with non-opaque to make the colors really pop...

I have finally learned to do a "test swatch" of liquid clay before using it on a project (I roll out some white clay, glop some tinted TLS on there, and heat the sucker with my handy dandy heat gun)
....started doing this after I had a few projects with TLS that started out a lovely color (but changed into a yicky puke green. Julie
...this can also be true with any inclusions, and may also vary by brand of clay or powder, etc.
...I think the TLS itself is not so much discoloring, as the additives.
......some of the glitters changes colors
..... most of the embossing powders are muddy if baked on surface rather than rolled in... and the colored crushed glass totally lost its color
..... for inks, see below in Paints & Inks....I have a hunch it all depends on what the additives are colored with.. . . Sarajane

Most of the "Colored Liquid Sculpey" colors from Polyform (most are metallic) are created primarily with mica powders
....I've been making my own "gold TLS" . . . it's Rhein Gold mica powder + TLS. Elizabeth

Elizabeth's vessels with many layers of Colored Liquid Sculpey or colored TLS
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1416609&uid=488109

glitters: ....Prisma Glitters by Gick, or glitters by Jones Tones, work well with the clay and with TLS as they are designed to be heat set in textile mediums, and washed and dried. Patty B.
...Marie's glitter in liquid clay(?), squeezed out as outlining on large flower pendant
http://www.clayfactory.net/marie/ecrunecklace.htm

For a surface technique resembling wood grain or other patterns, using opaque or translucent liquid clays mixed with colors or powders, then manipulated, see Faux Turquoise/Wood > Wood > Surface Techniques.

I haven't thought about it, actually - I don't know if "water mixable" oil paints contain water before you thin them, so I don't know if they'd work or not. They're expensive and I just never thought about buying a set to see what they'd do with the clay.
....The main reason that I'm sticking with the Genesis and the Lumiere paints though, is that they're made for heat-setting. I know they're not going to release cadmium, zinc or other noxious substances into the air if I bake them because they're made to be heated without toxicity
...... I almost never cook anything that's got regular oil paints in it any more because of the toxic substances artists oil colors. (And I believe that would include the water-soluble oils.) The cadmiums are particularly troublesome.... I'll use them, eventually but only when I can take the oven outside and cure stuff on the back porch. :) I would certainly recommend that as a basic precaution when curing cadmium-pigmented colors. Elizabeth

(see below in Strengthener for adding bits of "silk" fabric to liquid clay for strength in thin freestanding areas)

Powders, pigments, etc. ... (dry)

Most any dry pigment should be okay to mix into liquid clay.

We have used face makeup (blush powders ... and eye shadows?), and most anything that gives the desired color to add color to LS. . . . Use sparingly, a little goes a long way.
...what about all kinds of chalks (can powder them by scratching on sandpaper)

I use oil pastels since liquid clay is oil-based ... and oil pastels are fairly inexpensive ... will bake up darker.

...there are a number of oil pastels on the market and most can be used as long as they're soft enough to 'smoosh' around on a glazed tile..... they've got to make a soft paste in order for the liquid clay to be colored by them.
....I make about a dime size of color on my tile, and then add TLS until I reach the desired hue
...first scribble on a non-absorbent surface with the oil pastel of your choice, then put a drop or so of liquid clay on top, and mix.... works great. Kelly
........Craypas are one type of oil pastel. Carolyn
....oil pastels would probably be harder to mix into liquid clay than chalk pastels ... the regular chalk pastels grind up to a powder easily. Jody
....I used Grumbacher pastels...intense artist colors... I just shaved off a bit, then dumped it in with my TLS... then dragged my pin through it.nae

Have you tried mixing a little clear liquid clay with metallic powders (... like Fimo's real-metal pulver , or a mica-based metallic powder)
....then painting it on, or rubbing it on, before baking? ......I've been getting some good results this way. Suzanne
...In fact, the metallic effects in the Colored Liquid Sculpeys are made mostly with mica powders. Elizabeth

make your own metallic "paint":
...i put an 1/8 tsp of gold metallic powder into a small container, added about 1 tsp of clear liqid clay
..then thinned it with about 10-12 drops of Diluent-Softener.
... paint it onto the surface of whatever item, and it bakes right to it!! :D Sunni
.... in order to get a really metallic effect with PearlEx, I find that you need to use a LOT of powder (which can be expensive), then dilute the mixture with Sculpey Diluent (now called "Clay Softener") to get it back down to a workable viscosity. Elizabeth
...If you have some of the Pearl-Ex powders or the Powdered Pearls, you can use those to color the TLS (as well as oil paints)... just beautiful ...Dotty

(.....see more on using powders in liquid clay as a "paint" in Paints > Metallic and glittery...)

To make this "paint" with Pearl Ex, I didn't use TLS because gives a grainy embellishment. sunni
.......TLS has a graininess to it that isn't as good for smooth "painting" unless you want to work with that, and accent it. Jody B.
.......graininess worse with embossing powders
..and because TLS must be rebaked to cure
.. and i didn't use Varathane simply because it's a bit milky, and i like to see what i'm applying
...while the Future makes a smoother line of "paint." sunni .

Elizabeth's use of Pearl Ex mixed into clear liquid clay to create dimensional veining and rim outlines on the leaves of her vessels:
... for leaf vase, veins made with a TLS plus Rhine Gold metallic powder... for votive, the brownish leaves were given flat coats of and TLS.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1416609&uid=488109
...You can mix in so much powder that it almost turns into more of a paste than a liquid and still be able to get it through the Jacquard fine-line tipped bottles or the fine-line tips you see at Michael's in the tole-painting section. The advantage to this thicker consistency is that the lines you make stay dimensional - before curing, I leave the piece to settle a bit, so that the mica flakes will all "relax" and lay flatter in the TLS so they'll look more metallic. The thicker paste doesn't run. I hope CLS (the new Colored Liquid Sculpey) will be on the thick side, too...Elizabeth

the Mitchells' lesson on backgound created by painting on blank areas of glass with a thin layer (of 1 1/2 T liquid clay mixed with pea-size Aztec gold Pearl Ex)
.....votive is baked upside down and any drips gently cut away from rim afterward ... entire surface then covered with a gloss varnish
(...after partially covering glass votive with translucent clay leaf shapes (cut from a sheet of clay stamped with real leaves)... and backfilling (each leaf is painted with tinted liquid clay --duo green-yellow Pearl Ex + dk.green oil paint -- which is wiped from the top areas in sev. min's, and left in crevices)
http://www.diynet.com/diy/cr_candles/article/0,2025,DIY_13748_2274492,00.html

sometimes, I gently brush Pearl Ex only on the high spots (over areas previously covered with TLS?) to maintain maximum shine…. Jody B.

interference mica powder in TLS ....I impressed some purple clay with a plastic texture sheet, then baked it
.... then went over the whole baked piece with red/blue duo mica powder mixed into the TLS
...the raised areas of the piece appear metallic purplish-blue, and the recessed areas deep semi-transparent blue.... beautiful. Dotty

(for sprinkles?) I tap a brush I've loaded with Pearl Ex on my finger over the piece and into TLS coating... it is still wet so the powder will stick. Jody B.

Try mixing the various gold/copper powders together . . . such as mixing Antique Gold, Aztec Gold, and Super-Copper to make a copper-gold color, as Ann and Karen do in their lesson
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_FioratoPendant.htm

embossing powders can be used with liquid clays too, in the regular way
. . Marie R's lesson on drizzling-drawing (a tree) onto baked clay with LS, pulling some of the lines out with a needle tool, then covering with embossing powder (she used a "snowflake type") ...tamp off excess and bake again (275 F for 15 minutes)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_TLSEmbossed.htm
....(see also below in Piping, for drizzling with LS and metallic powders)
... I used some embossing powder, but it ended up mixing in all grainy. Sara
........the embossing powder doesn't really mix in like a dry pigment would, but that can be a good effect too. Jody B
...most of the embossing powders are muddy if baked on the surface rather than rolled in. Sarajane

Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and powders and pencils ...on clay, making clings, etc.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html

for using a pin to "drag" or "pull" designs through dots and lines of liquid clays (colored with powders) placed on top of a plain layer of liquid clay, see below in Clings "On Glass" .....(can be done on glass or on a baked clay shape)
...Donna's LS various experiments with liquid clay and oils, powders, pencils ...on clay, making clings, etc.
http://members.tripod.com/DonnasDreams/tls.html
...pallette of colors using pearlex powders and oil paints and thinned with diluent .... then draw the pin through all the color drops and bake at 300 for 20 min. Body of the cabs is gold Premo.

discrete bits of things:
glitters: ....Prisma Glitters by Gick, or glitters by Jones Tones, work well with the clay and with TLS as they are designed to be heat set in textile mediums, and washed and dried. Patty B.
..some of the glitters may change colors. Sarajane

for more discrete inclusions, like mylar shapes or other things, see below in Clings ...
...and especially for things between layers of liquid clay, see Transfers > Liquid Clay)

(see also below in Molds for marbling, and adding leaf, metallic powders, tiny holeless glass beads, and stamps/charms)

Oil Paints & Inks, etc. ...(liquid)

You don't want to mix water into the clay, so watercolors and other water-based inks generallly won't be good options. Elizabeth
...Well, you can't reliably use acrylic paints to tint liquid clay . . .
....but acrylics aren't always a problem... it can depend on how much acrylic is added , but I don't want to risk it. Jody B.
.......Marie Segal has been able to tint LS with acrylics -no problem at all.... since you want only a hint of color,I think it would be fine.
....acrylic paints contain water which can turn into steam in the oven, leading to bubbles or puffiness or cloudy areas ....and/or make white spots in the baked liquid clay which usually show up right away . Jody .

Liquids that will work are : oil paints... oil pastels... alcohol-based inks (and some other mineral based? inks)

You can tint liquid clays with alcohol-based inks ...Pinata Inks
.....the Pinata Inks are alcohol based and alcohol can cause bubbling and frothing in the liquid clay if there's too much of it.
....I've been dropping the ink onto the surface and letting it sit for a while in hopes that the alcohol will evaporate off
....then I mix the color into the liquid clay....so far, no problems even when I didn't wait to let the alcohol evaporate. Elizabeth

Also some sort of mineral-based inks ( they smell kind of like Kiwi paste shoe polish)
....little re-inker bottles of Crafter's Ink by ColorBox are wonderful for making for mixing right into liquid clays to tint them (or to make your own stamp pads)
....these are not transparent like the Pinata inks, though in very small quantities you might not notice any lessening of translucency in layers of cured LS
Elizabeth
..plus Posh Impressions re-inker liquids
(and probably other brands of inks that I have no experience with)
...different lines of inks have very different chemical reactions.
.......(for instance, the new Chalkbox colors are find in liquid clays, but they melt into a Flecto application)
....the Ancient Pages color lines do not react with any of the toppings I've used so far, nor does the Colorbox or Paintbox line. Sarajane

block-printing ink (Speedball ) can be used too. Jody B.(...aren't there two versions though? ...oil based and water based?)

oil paints are great to color liquid clays! Jody B. .... including metallic oil paints
.....oil paintswill give a more translucent result in liquid clay than using metallic powders (more opaque)
..Jody B's lesson on mixing liquid clay with oil paints, at sculpey.com...... I dip the end of a toothpick into the oil paint tube and that is all it takes to tint the TLS --a very small amount
.. ....always let the liquid clay settle first, and use a pin to get rid of the air bubbles