EGGS
Preparation
Supplies
Strength
Bubbles, cracks
How to cover with slices & sheets
...measuring slices ...bare egg
...raw
clay base layer--sheet ... glue/TLS
...diagonal,
other methods, misc..
Finishing
Stands,
etc.,& hanging
Other kinds of eggs
Plastic
eggs
Other techniques using eggs
...Cutting,
carving, filigree, hinges, boxes
...Vinegar
eggs (dissolve shell)
...Dioramas
...More
ideas for eggs
......figures (covered egg bodies, etc.)
......other
ideas
Websites
Egg suppliers
SUMMARY for preparing an egg
EMPTYING
an egg
1. Use room temperature eggs if you can since the insides will be
less stiff.
2. Make a hole or holes with a needle/hat pin, a "church key"
(pointed can opener --tap a dent in the egg, and turn back and forth for a smooth
round hole), or a pointed waterdrop-shaped drill bit (grind a hole)
3a. two-hole
methods (make a hole in each end of the egg, one hole larger than the other)
--pierce the yolk with a needle and swish to break up
--blow out the egg
with your mouth, or you can blow air or water into one hole with an ear bulb syringe,
an injection syringe (with or without a needle), an "egg blower" (see description
& suppliers below), a small drinking straw, or a basketball nozzle adapter
for a bicycle pump (wrap the needle part with a damp paper towel to make it seal
with the egg better)
3b. one-hole methods (many of the same blowers
as above will work, but there must be enough room for the egg to flow out around
whatever is inserted into the hole; also the hole must face downwards while
blowing)
--pierce the yolk with a needle and swish to break it up
--blow
air or water into the hole with one of the tools, allowing egg to flow out; repeat
until all egg is out
CLEANING: squirt or run cold water into egg a
few times and shake; blow water out using mouth or tool
DRYING: put
all eggs in microwave & cook them on high for 15-30 sec, or bake in 300 degree
oven for 10 min (this may also make them stronger), or let them drain (hole downwards)
for 2-3 days
PREPARATION
It's probably best to use room temperature eggs since the insides will be less stiff.
....when you puncture the egg to blow it out, make sure to push needle in far enough to break the yolk ...I didn't know this years ago when I attempted egg blowing....maybe I'm just weak or something, but trying to force that whole yolk out of the egg through that little hole was nearly impossible. My cheeks and jaw hurt so bad I thought I'd been in a fist fight with a gorilla! michele 'luny'
Those metal needle tools they sell for making holes in beads work great for this. Swish a long needle or pin around inside the egg to break up the yolk. Then place the bulb syringe (or whatever it is called) against one of the holes and squeeze. Sometimes you have to pull some of the thicker parts out, but it really works and it's much easier. Be warned however that you can still break apart many eggs with too much pressure. Libby
~you
can also go the the pharmacy and buy a handfull of 3cc syringes
for the price that micromark is charging for one...I have seen them they are just
the same 3cc syringes that we use at the hospital.....you can even ask for needles....
saraj42
.... ~If you go to a medical supply place you can buy
the syringes in various sizes from very small to huge.
... if Fry's
Electronics is still around they have needles and syringes available
for electronic soldering. The needles are real handy. They are short, not
pointed, and screw right onto the top of the syringe. They fit the syringes
from the med supply. magicmoira
.... The Cajun Injector (syringe for marinating
meat). http://www.cajuninjector.com/
This is a big big syringe, with holes on both side (dunno if that helps or not,
but they're there), and a huge sturdy needle. Nae
....I'm using the syringe
from my inkject refill kits to blow out my eggs. Corgi
I don't leave more than a pin hole in the large end and I haven't had any cracking (until someone picks it up and squeezes it, God knows why). obirtasil
What used to be my "church key" (pointed can opener) is now my official "hole maker for blowing out Eggs" tool. (It really works quite well; tap a dent in the egg, and turn back and forth for a smooth round hole). Need a starter hole?
. . . Another thing that seems to help is to grind the hole in rather than poking or chipping. Grinding doesn't start any cracks that can grow later. I have a water-drop shaped bit that works well. (I used to use a ball shaped tip but that one wandered a little before starting.) The point of the drop cuts right in to the shell.
A bit of super glue (the liquid, not the gel) will strengthen the hole at the large end and help prevent breakage when covering the egg. Katherine Dewey
To remove a lot of the moisture, put all your blown out eggs into the microwave & cook them on high for 15-30 seconds. This cooks & dries all the moisture left inside. Then I cover them with a coat of LS & bake in the convection oven. lawardrop
I sterilize the eggs this way: blow out the insides, then wash and rinse thoroughly. Then I soak it in a solution of water and bleach (not too much bleach). I also pre bake the eggs in 300 degree oven for ten minutes. It seems to make the shells stronger, I don't know for sure but they crack less. Karen
I let my eggs dry for 2-3 days. That way, you don't have any moisture inside to steam up and crack your egg. obirtasil
I
use a plastic syringe to blow eggs. Then I use it to put in some warm water, cover
the holes with my fingers and shake it to clean, then blow out the
water.obirtasil
...I have one suggestion to add: when cleaning out the
egg shell with water, (after the contents have been blown out), use cold water.
Egg is a protein, and hot water literally "cooks" protein. Cold water will remove
more of the residue, while hot water cooks residue to the insides of the eggs.
(See? Some things learned in med school DO come in handy!) Tricia
method
for syringe (with needle) and one small hole:
--make the
hole at least twice as large as the needle
--insert needle (hole facing downwards)
--press plunger to force in air, this forces egg white out
--remove
needle and pull plunger back
--insert needle, press plunger, remove needle
again again... repeat until egg is empty
(--breaking yoke beforehand is unnecessary
as needle will pierce it as it moves down)
to clean egg: remove
plunger from syringe and fill will hot water; squirt into egg a few times and
swish;
"blow" the water out the same way as you blew out the egg before;
repeat until water runs clear --this also cleans the syringe (from Sunni)
I clean out my eggs with bleach and then rinse thoroughly. Some people use a baking soda rinse to neutralize the bleach too. Susan
After emptying the contents and rinsing out the egg, a few drops of vinegar will prevent mold from forming as the egg dries.
Bake on a cushion of batting and immediately after baking plunge into icy cold water. This will reduce air bubbles if they do form. Katherine Dewey
The
real trick is to not get air bubbles (and leave no air hole in the final
egg covering). I bake my egg twice before I even started decorating
it.
I use scrap clay, make two sheets, gently cover the egg and blend the
seams. Then I take a needle-tool and poke a hole where the hole is in the egg
itself. Then I bake.
When it is done, I take the egg and cover up the hole
with clay ---WHILE IT IS STILL VERY VERY HOT -- and rebake. This way the whole
egg is covered with no air bubbles. After all of this, then I put on whatever
I want to decorate the egg. Byrd
My Dad, the engineer and guy-who-knows-how-everything-works,
says it's the moisture in the air inside eggs turning into steam when heated which
causes the problem of bubbling. By doing the two step bake described above,
moist air is removed from the egg and the egg is sealed so no moisture can get
in again. Hence, no need for an air hole. Linda
Also how you hold the egg is of utmost importance as well. Always...always hold the eggs at the greatest axis of the egg in other words lengthwise. The eggshell structure will tolerate great stress if held in this manner. Miki
Psyanky eggs (waxed in areas, then repeatedly dyed) are made with raw eggs? over the months will dry out, possibly leaving a small amt. of matter which makes a slight rattle????
My sister teaches polymer clay to kids. Blown-out eggs are too fragile for most of them to handle, and she didn't have time to prepare them anyway. So, she had them cover the hard-boiled ones with polymer, and then cured them, as normal. She has one egg that's at least a year and a half old, and no problems so far. The polymer seems to make a completely air-tight cover. I thought it was a great idea! They're a bit heavier than blown out eggs, and she doesn't sand them, but they worked fine! Maureen (using only ones without any cracks from boiling? using a thick covering of polymer to buffer the heat?)
(for buying eggs, see EGG SUPPLIERS below)
As I
was saying, this tool is called a One Hole Egg Blower. It sells (at least
when I bought it) for $5 or $6, I think. I looks something like this (and you
don't have to contort your head and neck to use it!): (DB:
include photo) it's a metal tube bent in a
shape that reminds me of Sherlock Holmes' pipe, with a mouthpiece at one end and
a tapered tip at the other. After making the hole at least 1/8" wide (remember
this won't show under the clay), insert the other end of the tube *up* into the
bottom of the egg. Blow----comes out pretty fast. If the tube doesn't pierce the
yolk automatically, pierce it first with a pin/needle/skewer to make evacuation
easier. This is the *only* way to blow a lot of eggs IMHO.
here is a photo
of a similar one, with it you have a bellows for pushing the air rather than blowing
into it
http://www.atu1.com/Supplies/Blowers.htm
Judi Maddigan writes: A company that sells Ukrainian Pysanky supplies lists (4
of these blowers) on its web page at http://pages.prodigy.com/esuark/pysanky.htm
....there are lots of different prices for them.... if you do a search
for egg blower, you will get hundreds of hits. I know I bought mine
for under 5 bucks only a year ago, and the cheapest I have found today is 6 I
think (and I can't remember the name of the place I bought mine from!) . but it
is worth it! kellie
We found a small pump, the hand pump that our boys had used to blow up basket balls, footballs etc. It had been laying around here for a long time. Anyhow it works very well forblowing out eggs. Don wrapped the needle part with a damp paper towel to make it seal with the egg better. It's great! Quick, clean and fast. Flo
You could also rig up a bendable straw to do the same thing, but the second
bend might collapse rather than bend (or I guess you could tape two flexible parts
from separate straws together). The idea is to be able to keep your head upright
during blowing, which is much more comfortable. The hole would need to be bigger
though.
The package also talks about filling the blown eggshells with gelatin
or with wax and a wick (then peeling off the shell).
Ordering info:
Suncrest Manufacturing, Clinton UT 84015, (801) 825-4933
(or the Hearth Song
catalog has a similar one with a bellows; you can see it at their website:
http://hearthsong.com/shop/item.cfm?icat_item_num=1054
)
I use one of those bulbous baby (mucus) suckers...you know, those things you suck out the infants nose or mouth with. I poke holes in both ends of the egg with a hatpin, fill the bulb with hot soapy water, and force the contents out by squirting the hot water in one end. Ronda
I use a syringe to blow my eggs out. No mouth blowing at all! Joanie
I don't know if anyone has tried this before, but Metzer Farms will ship blown, clean duck or goose eggs (and others too I think). They come in assorted sizes and seem to cost around 55 cents for medium sized eggs (there is a large assmt of sizes to choose from). They ship and the minimum order is low (I recall about $25, I bought enough that I haven't re-ordered in a while). I found them on the web at www.metzerfarms.com. I called the toll free number and they were very nice to deal with. I think they sell a lot of the very large eggs used by people who create scenes in them and stuff like that.
Save the (wide, flat) rubber bands that come on bunches of broccoli and toss them in your tool kit. They are just the right size to put around an egg or rock amulet to mark a layout or cut line. Once you have the edge smoothly placed, you can run a pen or pencil along it. Then remove the rubberband, warm the clay and make a nice smooth cut. Jody B.
A " painting board "for holding painted or varnished obejcts as they dry can sometimes be found at craft and hobby shops (...each board has a multitude of tiny points spaced pretty close together that you can place your painted object on) see details on these & on making them in Finishes > Misc. for All Finishes)
STRENGTH
Baking
the eggshells first makes them stronger... and I find that having a layer
of clay on the egg first is good, makes it stronger, and easier to get the slices
on.
Also, translucent liquid sculpey is WONDERFUL for filling in those
little cracks that appear, etc...
(Claire) Believe it or not,
I have never broken an egg yet.
1.) I use brown eggs, which
I have been told are a bit stronger than white ones
2.) After emptying and
rinsing out, I bake them at 350 degrees for about 10 min., to dry them out and
also I think it strengthens them some more..
3.) Coat with Sobo glue,
and let dry overnight.
When I cover with sheets of clay, I make sure to butt
up the seams with no overlapping, and then smooth out the seams. If you don't
overlap, there is very little smoothing necessary. If I'm applying Mokume gane
slices, I try to lay them down in such a way that I make a sorta smooth surface.
In both cases, I roll over them with an acrylic brayer to do the final
smoothing…- actually, it is one of my most used tools, and I love the way it smooths
things out. The trick is just to only apply light pressure with it, and go
over the area many times. I get very little distortion if I use light pressure.
When eggs are fresh their shells are very fragile. As they age the shells calcify and get thicker. So for stronger eggs to cover, use older ones. Julia
I sterilize the eggs this way: blow out the insides, then wash and rinse thoroughly. Then I soak it in a solution of water and bleach (not too much bleach). I also pre bake the eggs in 300 degree oven for ten minutes. It seems to make the shells stronger, I don't know for sure but they crack less. Karen
(more elsewhere on this page about strength of egg, or hole, etc.)
BUBBLES, CRACKS
now here's the amazing part. ...it had no bubbles (that i could tell) ...so - in future, i can go straight to smearing on TLS and (while still wet) decorating the clean egg!! Sunni
I do a lot
of eggs decorated in bas relief, essentially raised designs. My sanding
solution is to bake and sand the underlying clay before adding the relief. This
smooth baked layer provides a firm surface to work on and diluent helps the relief
clay adhere.
.....While I'm creating the base layer, I constantly remind myself
to get it smooth as possible and to make certain the clay isn't
sticking to my hands (this causes air pockets).
Sometimes I rub my hands with cornstarch or wear gloves during this
step..
.... immediately (while still very
hot) after baking plunge into icy cold water. This will reduce air bubbles
if they do form. . . I'm always working to minimize sanding,
but there's no way around it. Katherine Dewey
...
This ice water plunging worked well for me when I was covering eggs and wooden
boxes that were coated with Sobo.
cracks:
Rebake your egg. While it is baking prepare a glass of Ice water with enough water
to cover the egg in a cup. When the egg is hot remove and place in cup. Quickly
pour ice water over egg. If you go slow it won't work. . . This should
close up the cracks. The heating closes the cracks, and the ice
water cools it down so fast it doesn't have time to pull away. If you are skeptical,
try it with another cracked scrap clay object.
( I had a bubble ….) I re-heated the egg for about 10 minutes & then pushed the bubble down as I held it in a pot holder. Now I can't even tell where it was. Thank you! Kay
That's happened to me, too. Usually, I poke a hole or two just under the surface in a couple of places on the egg before baking. That way, if there is air trapped I didn't notice, it has some way to escape during baking. kleebug.
A thin layer of TLS over the egg, then baked, makes it much sturdier for covering later. And that preliminary baking takes care of any residual moisture hiding in your blown egg. kleebug
To the person who posted the idea of using a metal file for smoothing out egg bumps (not bubbles- ?), THANKS! It's been a life saver! My files, being family antiques, were already rusty--so I used water anyway and had no problem. The rust washed off the eggs just fine.
(after my burn incident) I have been using iguanas on top of some of my eggs (to hide the problems). I don't consider myself a sculptress, but they have turned out pretty good. I was working on other reptiles, etc...... ANYWAY, about the broken egg.... I had an egg with an exceptionlly good lizard that I forgot to repoke the hole in the bottom and ended up with horrible air bubbles that I couldn't push down. So I cut out the bubbles and plan to either have baby iguanas or after-birth ooze (or something else) crawling out of the holes. Later I started actually fashioning eggs with a hole, tearing clay away where I really wanted the hole to have body parts coming out. ...DeB
(also do a ctrl + f page search on this page for the word bubble, for more ideas)
HOW TO COVER with SLICES (& sheets)
cane slices in rows
Jack Schwend's fabulous Poly-Psyanky
eggs, with lots of precise, complex caning in rows
http://jacksworkshoppe.homestead.com/PAGE3.html
Marie Draighi's multi-cane eggs, sometimes in rows --some slices
not smoothed out... patchwork-collage (& simple stands)
http://www.marieidraghi.it/uova_eggs.htm
Cr.Michele's
translucent cane
http://www.geocities.com/Wellesley/1644/ma-hmpge11pcg10.htm
measuring cane slices to fit an egg
(ee
more on applying
slices next to each other
in general in Canes-info
> Sheets of Slices & Smoothing
(also
see all sub-categories
below for more tips on this)
How
do you gauge what width the cane needs to be to go around evenly? Kim
(..here are some ideas for covering eggs which have the same number of slices
in each row... and when you're using a square cane:)
....to
measure the "equator" of an egg, it's easiest to use a soft measuring
tape (..for a chicken egg, that'll usually be around 5.5 inches).
....then
divide that measurement by the number of slices you want (say 5-9)... then
reduce your cane to that size....that should be the correct size for the first
row.
SOME GUIDELINES to use for a normal egg waist/equator
(5.5", or 14 cm) --measure the cane slices side-to-side, or point-to-point if
using your square slices on point:
....(it may be easier to just measure
both your egg waist measurement and your cane width in centimeters
to begin with, instead of having to convert from inches --most soft measuring
tapes have both decimal and fractions marked on them, I think)
(here are some
samples of: ....normal waist measurement.... divided by number of
slices used.... equals width of slices needed)
5.5" divided
by 5 slices = 1.1" (or 2.8 cm)
5.5" divided
by 6 slices
= 0.9" (or 2.3 cm)
5.5" divided by 7 slices
= 0.8" (or 2.0 cm)
5.5" divided by 8 slices
= 0.7" (or 1.8 cm)
5.5" divided by 9 slices
= 0.6" (or 1.5 cm)
(ain't Google-as-calculator handy??? .. a math lover I'm
not...)
.... so (for the first row) ....if you measure the width of
the cane you already have, you can get a general idea of how many slices
you'll need to use on an egg from the choices above
.......or in reverse --
decide how large you want the cane slices to be and see how many slices
you need to use, or decide how many slices you want to use and see what
size they need to be.
....for subsequent rows,
the cane will need to be reduced "a bit narrower," and also smooshed a
bit trapezoidal so it's narrower at whichever end of the cane slice will
be closest to the tip of the egg.
.......some people though, like Mike Buesseler,
put their square slices *on point* (diagonal) rather than
side by side (nifty patterns can be created that way--see below)...in that case,
the cane will need to become more "diamond-like" as it goes
up or down because the slices need to be narrower (..and shorter as well if you
want, which will just make the whole cane smaller but in its original proportion).
.......most people who mention it just seem to say that subsequent rows need
to be "a little smaller" and that they have to futz with the size a bit.
.......Mike
B. presses his cane face onto the spot he wants to fill, then squishes it till
it fits (....since he does his slices on point, he puts the cane face into a "V"
formed by the first row, but the same principle could apply to canes joined side-to-side).
Diane B.
As long as you don't mind having to use an even
number of slices
(for each row), the following method can also be used (...in other
words, you'd need to use either 4 or 6 or
8 slices, e.g.):
.....Take a long strip of paper,
and wrap it around the item you're working with (at the widest point of the circumference)
... trim off any extra so the the strip exactly meets itself. ....then
fold the strip in half...in half again, etc., until you have as
many "repeats" as you want ....the strip gives you evenly spaced fold lines
to mark the pattern, without having to do the math. Lisa
Contrary
to what everyone else said about cutting slices into trapezoids to fit the curve,
I don't do this. I work with the angles to make things fit--like triangles
squares or hexagons, and distort the slice slightly to fit it into the spaces
as I move up and down the egg.
It's important to me that the patterns seem continuous.
.... I also cover with
solid sheets working the seams closed.
.... My technique is to use the
6" acrylic brayer from WeeFolk (handle removed) and gently roll across the
seams to close
them. It takes a while to get used to the amount of pressure it takes, but
I do this on eggs with no "base clay layer" ...this way, the rolling
can slightly "move" or stretch the cane slice into position.....
I can leave gaps up to 1/4" between slices and with a slightly thicker
slice--(between 1/16th and an 1/8") these are filled and the pattern edges are
made to meet. It takes a while of rolling, but I hold the acrylic rod in one hand
and with a turn at the wrist keep it moving around the egg while the other hand
turns the egg. Patti?
similar,
but more info....
When I use cane slices, it is a point of pride with me that
I don't ever cut to fit. All my patterns are continuous with no part of the pattern
"darted" out. Also, I don't press the slices to a backing sheet because I don't
want distortion of the pattern or smearing of the top layer. But in order to do
that, you have to manipulate slices quite a bit. Some get stretched gently,
some compressed. I start by covering the egg with a scrap layer and baking that.
That way, you have the ability to get a little more rough with pressing and smoothing
without worrying about breaking the shell. Then I apply the canework. Using the
acrylic rod, gently start with a twist of your wrist in the center of the slice,
moving in the direction you need to stretch the cane. then, work your way
toward the edge where the slice should meet the next one. I have made 6 square
cane slices about 1 1/2" square fit, meet and cover eggs (three top, three
bottom, with points touching at top and bottom, kinda fit together like a
harlequin pattern). They had up to half inch gaps when arranged and before
smoothing. It takes some practice, but you can do it. You also want to cut your
cane slices closer to 1/8 " or more if you need to make them fit like this.
Finally, a secret: put a smear of vaseline in your hand, rub. then rub,
roll and smooth the egg in your hands. The surface will become smeary, but
that will sand off easily. The vaseline allows you to get much more forceful in
stroking the surface and rub down bumps. I've come across no ill effect of the
vaseline on the baking. If the egg is still bumpy after it is baked, start out
with a metal file to cut the bumps off. This will leave some pretty severe scratch/cut
lines, but then you sand, sand, sand! Start with 220 or 320 grit paper to cut
more and smooth. Then move on to 400, 600, and 800 (and more if you want, I go
to 2000). Then buff with soft cloth or a buffing wheel. Hope it helps. It's so
much easier to show this than describe it....unfortunately. Patti K.
Bare Egg (in particular)
It's also possible to do eggs without the scrap clay, but you do have to be very gentle. It helps to use newer canes made of soft clay, since you don't have the scrap clay to prevent the egg from baking. When I'm doing an egg in just one layer like that, I cover it with Sobo glue first - makes the clay stick better. Of course, I didn't know about drying the egg in the oven - maybe my cane wasn't sticking because I hadn't dried the eggshell completely? Nancy
Steven Ford's method uses thick cane slices applied directly to the egg - no first layer of scrap clay. He cut enough slices to make a ring around the circumference, laid them down next to each other and then picked up the row and wrapped around the egg. He then took more slices and butted them up to the edge of the first row, going all the way around and then kind of pressed and coaxed the whole row down to form against the shape of the egg. He seems to use only square canes, and then when an egg is completely covered, he will cut out shapes from the clay and in-lay another pattern slice…
(for my Poly-Psyanky eggs, with lots of complex caning)...I
also do just one row (of slices) at a time and bake one row at a time.
That way you don't mess up the row before and it gives you a firm backing for
the next row. I have a small convection oven ,fast working. I suppose if you use
a full size oven it might be a problem. Some people use a heat gun,but I never
could without burning my fingers, LOL! .... . . on smoothing, I use a Dremel with
(stitched?) buffing pad to lose the real rough spots and then buff like mad with
steel wool of varying grades. Jack
http://jacksworkshoppe.homestead.com/PAGE3.html
Raw
Base layer (sheet of clay)
for cane slices,
or other sheets
Eberhard
Faber's lesson shows covering an egg with a sheet, creating 4 large
darts at top and at bottom of egg, then trimming them off... and smoothing
http://tinyurl.com/77vjc
I
roll a sheet of clay a bit longer and wider than the true diameter of
the egg
......I wrap the egg by folding the sheet lengthwise
around the egg, like a clamshell.
.....I pinch the excess together
(into seams), and trim the excess with a scissors.
......I
let the clay rest .... then work to smooth out any air bubbles (and pierce
a small hole in the large end). Katherine Dewey
..I cover the egg with a base
coat of scrap clay (#3 or #4)...following
Margaret Regan's lead, I fold the clay sheet over the egg like a clam shell to
minimize teh number of seams. ... if I press the excess of the sheets together
up close to the egg, then trim the pulled up excess with
nail scissors which are pressed against the egg, the
seam sometimes seals itself as I cut! .... then I roll
between my hands until smooth. Carol S.
I
lay the egg on the clay sheet in the center, and place the sheet around the egg,
butting the edges.
...
then I cut out pieces of clay like you would
in sewing to make darts (in the shape of darts???)... butt
all the seams
...do that around the end until it's all closed. . . .
Lucille
As far as putting the cane slices on the
eggs, I've found it is much easier to have a raw layer (a thin #
6 is enough)
...the base layer should be the same color as the
background of the cane slices... that way there is more forgiveness
for the occasional (read "frequent") uneven cane slice. ...also this way
you can use round cane slices and don't have to spend so much time mooshing
the slices to fill the gaps).
I
use real eggs and cover first with a base layer - either scrap clay or
the bulk white sculpey.
.....I put through pasta machine at 4 or
5... wrap the sheet around the egg... pinch up the sheet where it meets
itself (so you now have something that look a bit like a wonton)...this pinched
flap of clay usually extends for about 180 degrees along the long
axis of the egg.
......I cut it off as close to the egg as I can...then
cut any obvious bumps.... roll in my hands to soften and smooth.
....also,
to smooth the surface I use a piece of acrylic about 3
1/2 x 6" in the one hand (egg in the other hand) ... this allows me to
smooth my eggs without the warmth and subsequent smearing that fingers
can cause- smoothing before is easier than sanding after.
put
a layer of base clay on first, and bake it, then add the decor.
...when doing
mokume on eggs I use a translucent base. Then I take my mokume slices
and place them slightly overlapping on a piece of waxed paper until I have
a big enough sheet of them to cover the egg.
...I put waxed paper over
them and roll well, getting them as smooth as possible.
...then peel the clay
sheet off of the paper and carefully fit and cut it over the pre-baked
egg. If you don't overlap much when you are doing this, the egg should be fairly
smooth.
....Then I roll it around on a smooth surface
until I'm satisfied it's the way I want it. Works really well.
....(I also
do this same method when I'm covering an egg with canes, unless they are geometric
and have to be fit carefully together. But flowers and leaves work nicely.)
Dotty
Nae's lesson on covering an egg with
raw layer, two holes... then mokume gane or cane slices,
possibly adding rattles
http://home.earthlink.net/~thenae/lesson.html
(gone)
*Lori
Greenberg 's visual lesson on covering a real & a plastic
egg (& how to sand and buff it) (raw base layer method)
http://www.abundancebox.com/Egg%20Prep.htm
(gone)
Glue or Liquid Clay base layer
I use a fairly thin sheet to cover
my eggs, but I prepare the shell by applying a vinyl (white)
glue, and letting it dry. My favorite is Beacon's Gem Tac. The
Dritz heming glue, also made by Beacon, is the same glue. It's thin enough
to brush on and is permanent.
....I roll a sheet of
clay a bit longer and wider than the two (true?) diameter of the egg and wrap
it by folding the sheet lengthwise around the egg, like a clamshell.
...I
pinch the excess together (into seams) and trim the excess with a scissors.
....I let the clay rest and then work to smooth out any air bubbles
and pierec a small hole in the large end.
This technique creates an
egg that is very evenly covered and needs little sanding. Katherine Dewey
(…being basically lazy, the process seems so involved. paint the egg with white glue and let it dry. put on a layer of base clay and bake. then you decorate it and bake it again. that's 3 steps at least.) Sunni
Then i thought to myself, "wonder if TLS would work like the glue does?"… i smeared 1/2 of the goose egg with TLS and baked it. when it cooled, i covered the baked TLS with some junk cane. Then i smeared TLS on the uncovered half and, unbaked, covered the still wet TLS with the rest of the junk cane. then i baked it. now here's the amazing part. the junk cane had no bubbles (that i could tell) and both the prebaked and unbaked halves of TLS worked like a charm. so - in future, i can elimate the prebaking and go straight to smearing on TLS and decorating the clean egg!! Sunni
byrd's
lesson at Polyzine on covering an egg with liquid clay and raw layer
http://pcpolyzine.com/march2001/eggs.html
lessons
on covering eggs with slices, by Dora
...rows & complete coverage ....floating
slices pattern
...eggs first coated with white glue and dried... then
covered with base clay (long rectangle of black clay cut into "fringes"
on both long sides before wrapping around egg equator, then pulling fringes up
or down, trimming excesses, and smoothing
http://dorasexplorations.wordpress.com/2009/02/26/covering-eggs-with-polymer-clay-101-part-2
(prep)
http://dorasexplorations.wordpress.com/2009/02/26/covering-eggs-with-polymer-clay-101-part-1
Baked Base layer
Carol
Simmon's method, to get smooth eggs:
(see many of Carol's eggs
at http://polymerclaycentral.com/pcc/swapegg1998.html)
1. Cover the egg with a base coat of scrap clay (#3 or #4)... trim seams
and roll between my hands until smooth
.... then bake on polyfill. Following
Margaret Regan's lead, I fold the clay over the egg like a clam shell
to minimize the number of seams. I find if I press the sheets together up close
to the egg then trim the excess with nail scissors presses against the egg, the
seam sometimes seals itself as I cut! Poke any air bubbles and press out the air.
(Leave a pinhole through clay and shell to let expanding air escape when the egg
is heated).
2. After baking ....sand the base coat quickly with
240 grit paper under water to remove bumps and create nice egg shape.
3. Rub
Sculpey diluent into base coat. Wipe off excess, wait 5 min.
4. Work
from square canes. Cut all slices the same thickness: 1 mm. What
I do is press the millimeter side of a ruler against the clay (cane) (of
course the ruler must have bumps at mm intervals, not just marks), taking care
to keep ruler parallel to edge of cane. I then cut on the mm marks to get nice,
even slices. This is plenty thick over an egg that has been base coated. …
5. I measure the diameter of the egg at its fattest point. Then on a sheet of
paper, I lay out a strip of slices, edge to edge, to equal the diameter.
If the strip is a bit short, it's fine - you can stretch the strip when
you put it on the egg. I press the edges together well, then lift the strip and
apply it to the egg. Usually, I first draw a line around the circumference of
the egg at its midpoint and use this to line up the strip as I place it on the
egg. I press the strip against the egg, gently, until it stays in place.
6.
Next, I draw "longitude" lines from the corners of the slices
I just applied to the top and bottom of the egg. The lines should converge
at the centers of the top and bottom. (I don't really DRAW the lines, I scratch
them with a needle tool.
7. For the upcoming egg swap, I am working with cane
designs that have mirror symmetry. With these designs, I don't have to
reduce the cane as I approach the ends, I simply cut the slices to fit the
egg as the circumference decreases towards the ends. The slices in the rows
near the center are cut into trapezoids, while the slices at the ends are
cut into triangles. (The longitude lines help you judge the size and shape
of the trapezoids.) This results in a kaleidescope pattern at the ends.
It wastes a lot of cane, but I make more canes than I know what to do with anyway.
8. I roll it gently in my palms to smooth the seams, paying particular attention
to where the corners meet, because if the corners of the cane weren't sharp there
are sometimes small gaps there. I continue to roll until all of the seams fuse.
9. I bake the eggs on polyfill, then sand them under water with 240, 320,
400 and 600 grit sandpaper. The vast majority of the sanding is done with the
240 grit sandpaper and is done to remove bumps and reshape the egg slightly, if
necessary. The rest of the sanding is more like a "once-over" to remove the scratches
left by the coarser grit sindpapers.
10. Since I like a soft shine rather
than a glassy one, I stop after the 600 grit paper, let the egg dry, then buff
on my jeans. When I've wanted a glassy shine, I've gone up to 1200 grit paper
or higher, then buffed on a wheel. Carol Simmons
Here's how I do my eggs. http://creativeside.com/cache/eggersu/artworks_by_lucille.htm
...(I used to put a layer on and bake it before the design layer, but I don't
anymore)
.. ..With a cloth tape, I measure around the widest part of the egg
and also the length.( A large chicken egg is usually around 3 x 5 1/2
inches).... I make my design on my work surface to measure slightly
under the measurement.
.......Then with a clay lifter, I lift the clay sheet
and place a piece of wax paper under the clay sheet...then another piece
of wax paper over that. With my rolling pin, roll in both directions, and
lift the paper to release it from the clay.... turn the whole thing over and do
the same. Do both sides a few times.
......Remove the wax paper and hold the
clay sheet in your left hand ( if our right handed)
..I
lay the egg on the clay sheet in the center, and place the sheet around the egg,
butting the edges.
...
then I cut out pieces of clay like you would
in sewing to make darts (in the shape of darts???)...
butt all the seams
...do that around the first end until it's all closed.
...To
make the egg rattle after baking, on the other end with the drain hole,
I make tiny balls of clay small enough to fit into the drain hole, and put in
5 or 6 tiny balls, or small pebbles or glass beads. Then close up that end the
same as the other end. With the needle tool, pierce it thru where the drain hole
is to release the air while it bakes. . . (LD: roll it around in your hands and
on a surface to smooth it) ....bake
. . . I then use 400 grit, 600, 1500 grit
wet sand paper. Then polish with a piece of denim until it feels like silk and
has a nice glow. Have fun. Lucille
I
use real eggs and cover first with a base layer - either scrap clay or
the bulk white sculpey.
...I put through pasta machine at 4 or 5...
wrap the sheet around the egg... pinch up the sheet where it meets itself
(so you now have something that look a bit like a wonton)...this pinched flap
of clay usually extends for about 180 degrees along the long axis of the
egg.
....I cut it off as close to the egg as I can...then cut any obvious bumps....
roll in my hands to soften and smooth.
....to smooth the surface, I then use
a piece of acrylic about 3 1/2 x 6" in the other
hand (this is one of my must-have tools whch I rarely hear others talk about)...
this allows me to smooth my eggs without the warmth and subsequent smearing
that fingers can cause- smoothing before is easier than sanding after.
....Then
poke 1-2 holes (very small) for the air to escape and bake 25 minutes.
....Sand
this egg a bit and then cover with your good layer. This is the basic Margaret
Regan taught at Ravensdale for preparing the eggs.
.... I do coat this
baked base layer with Sobo which seems to allow the outer layer to adhere
better.
Mike
Buesseler’s diagonal patterns & technique:
First
you need to find the egg's "equator". I usually stretch a (thin?) rubberband
around the middle trying to find the fattest part of the egg. Does
that make sense? ....Once I have the rubber band in place, I lightly trace along
it with a pencil (the circumference line)
….Once I get that equator
marked, I measure it with a soft measuring tape. I find large eggs to be
around 5 1/2" or so.
........ I divide this measurement into
the number of cane slices I want in my first tier, say six...
so 5 1/2" divided by 6 is about .9"
........then I reduce my cane to
have a DIAGONAL measurement equal to that.
...
Next, cut 6 cane slices (I don't cover my eggs with anything
first--the clay seems to stick just fine for me.)
........Place one slice
onto your egg, on the DIAGONAL, that is so it looks sort of like a diamond on
your egg. Place it exactly along the equator line you drew. ........Continue
placing slices along the line until you completely circle the egg (sometimes,
if I come out a little long or short, I just go back around and fudge the
slices a little to make them fit.) Keep your first slices nice and square and
uniform. This first course is the most critical...get it right and the rest is
easier.
...Now, reduce your cane just a little (so you
can cut more slices and begin fitting them into the V shaped spaces above and
below your first tier).
.......the circumference gets
smaller from this point, both for upper and lower rows so the slices will
need to become more and more distorted (narrow in width, but in height
only if you want?) as you get near the ends of the egg (when I say
"distorted", I don't mean squished or totally random. I mean they need to get
more diamond shaped to fit into the spaces right. Let the egg guide you.....)
.....
to find the size for this cane reduction, hold the whole cane against the egg
in one of those V's and you'll find that it is pretty close to the same size
as the first tier slices... BUT it isn't QUITE the same, and it is important to
get this right. I do a fair amount of adjusting of each slice as I near
the ends.
...Keep this up, building tier upon tier.
There are some
really neat geometric effects that take place doing this, if you get it right....
the better job you do at this, the more impressive the pattern becomes.( If you've
seen that article Jewelry Crafts did on me several years ago, there is a picture
of an egg I made there that really illustrates this effect. I wish you could look
at that egg from the top or bottom. It impresses ME. This pattern just sort of
emerges from the shape of the egg. It isn't something I plan out on paper, or
anything.)
....Also, since I place one slice at a time on the egg,
I don't get any air bubbles trapped under the clay, either.
....
I always leave a little hole in one end of the egg, for air expansion,
whatever... If the hole is a problem, you can patch it at the end, and rebake.
...Oh, once the egg is covered, I just gently smudge the seams until
they are fairly smooth. ....Then I bake for 10 minutes or so, and do my
rough sanding. Rebake for another 20 minutes, and then
final sanding. This is fairly standard for large objects, isn't it?
-
Well, that's it. I don't know if you can use this or not, or if it's clear enough.
Mike Buesseler
Other Methods
*Debbie Anderson's horizontal strips egg, each strip with a different pattern (website gone)
Desiree's "crazy patch" egg, each
irregular shape a different pattern, plus onlay (some silkscreened patt's?) (website
gone)
Shane's single
slices with backgrounds (NOT allover pattern):. First figure out what
kind of design you want on the egg--whether you want 4 designs on each side or
stripes or whatever. I use cane slices to create a design instead of the
overall pattern thing.
Put the design in cane slices on the egg first. The
slices are usually easy enough to pick back up off the egg and move them around
till you get it just the way you like it for the design part. Around the design
I usually want a solid colored background. I roll a sheet of the background
color out to # 5 or 6 Atlas. Cut a piece of this sheet larger than the
background area you want to fill between the design(s). Lay the raw piece gently
on the egg and press slightly to get a slight impression or line of the design
thats already on the egg. Take the sheet off and you should have a mark on the
sheet that you can cut out and it will fit in the space you took the impression
from. These large solid areas are usually what will blister up a lot when
baking. So the freezing cold water bath works well here too. Shane
Jeanine's
large cane slice on the front of an egg, surrounded with background-cane
pattern like a "frame"
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1175021&uid=527261&members=1
(gone)
Misc
Finger
buffing the surface with cornstarch or talcum powder is another technique
good for large areas...a nice technique for smoothing eggs.
(tip: wear gloves to keep the clay from sticking
to your hands when you first cover eggs with clay to avoid bubbles.)
Katherine Dewey
~I also found it is easier smooth out seams with
a bit of talc powder (or cornstarch?). I have a little jar next
to my work area when I am smoothing out pendants, and it prevents the smearing.
I just dab a bit on my finger and carefully press out a seam. I think I got this
tip from Elissa on a chat one night. Since it will be sanded away, it works
pretty good, and the top layer becomes less sticky too. Dar
To make a pattern for the shape of an egg, you can wrap it in aluminum foil and smooth the foil down. Then cover that with strips of masking tape. Then cut it off with an exacto so you can press the pattern flat...might look like a daisy.
FINISHING
(also above)
Nowadays, I don't varnish, I sand and buff instead. This gives them a glass-like shine which stays permanently. Dotty in CA
I have holes in my eggs
from the blowing process and I leave them for handling purposes
....after baking,
eggs can be put on a skewer or wire
...... then I hold that and
spin it while coating the egg with Varathane (hold the egg-stick
in one hand and the brush in the other and turn the egg while applying the Varathane
to get all the way around and fast)... it takes maybe 30 seconds
to coat an egg, and only one coat
......then I suspend the egg by
placing the stick ends on the sides of a baking pan, and allow to dry for
a few hours. Sarajane
....and btw, fresh Varathane is the consistency
of milk and it self levels, so you should never have runnels or grooves when you
apply it if its not already thickened
.... also never wipe your brush on the
edge of the container, this adds bubbles.. just dip, pull up, and apply
....
and don't use a tiny
amount ...get it on there, and spread around in quantity so it wont dry too fast.
Sarajane
...some years ago I used Future floor
finish on some eggs I had made and they still look really good... I put a slender
bamboo stick through the holes and suspendthe egg on it....this made putting
the finish on them really easy.. . . . then I set them across a muffin tin
to dry, rotating them now and then so the liquid wouldn't pool
on one side. Dotty in CA
I remembered back to the days of grade school where we created Pysanki eggs and
coated them in lacquer.
...we used to put a small dollop of the varnish in
the palm of our hands ...then rolled the eggs
in it.
...the difference with the Future is
that it dries so fast that its important to roll
the egg quickly and set it to dry in a stand of some sort ( a pizza
delivery tripod works ok). Diana
when i cover
eggs, i also include a single piece of thread
..... (before covering
with clay), i place the thread along the axis of the egg... then I cover
the egg & thread
..... i leave about 6" of the thread hanging
out of the narrower end of the egg (or anywhere)
..... then i dip
the egg it into the sealant after it's baked (i use future floor
wax) and hang it.... and gently wick the drops off with a paper
towel until they stop forming
......when the egg is dry, i snip the
thread leaving about 1/8".... and then I burn that bit off
with a lighter (just like it burn off pet hair after baking)... the
thread disappears almost instantly without any damage to the finish. sunni
An old eggers trick for drying eggs ... poke
three thumbtacks through a piece of cardboard in a small triangle
shape. That forms a little pointy tripod you can sit your eggs on to dry.
....the
tiny little tips of the tacks leave a negligible mark, you can usually
buff to invisibility. Joanie
more thin coats gets you a better reward than fewer thick coats. Joanie (Future?)
Sally
H's lesson on making a stand for an egg ...(3 "legs,"
holding 3 concentric circles cut with cutters)
http://polymerclaycentral.com/eggstand.html
The largest Kemper cutter is 1 1/2 inches in diameter. I cut another circle
outside that which would be about 1 3/4 inches. The whole trick is that the inside
measure of the largest circle should be just a bit smaller than the broadest part
of the egg. Sally
I
have a few different stands I have bought with art glass pieces and rock spheres
that I have used to photograph eggs, and they work nicely, but I haven't known
until now where to get them. It turns out that they can be purchased from Rio
Grande. They're listed in the Displays catalog (page 158). They have
several sizes and styles. Rio Grande doesn't have an online catalog, but
you can order it free at www.riogrande.com. Ann
I see Clear Acrylic Displays
on pg. 158 that would work for eggs, D, E, G, and H...Joan
i
do eggs...and for display stands i use napkin rings.....some are
really lovely and they are perfect size....
.
. . I tried putting feet on one, it was ok but kind of clumsy looking... but there,
on the same shelf, was a turned wood candle holder, the kind for tapers.
the egg sits beautifully on it, up in the air, and lovely! Diana
faux stand ....PokoPat has a built-on base for one egg which is comprised of several rows of clay ropes around the bottom of the egg (the ropes create a short cylindrical shape though so probably there's an under-shape of scrap clay there) ... 14 med. balls of clay (each with an indented dot) are placed next to each other all around on the bottommost row to flare the bottom and allow the egg to stand on its own
Aurora's
sculpted flowers base for egg
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/clayday/egg_aurora.jpg
Denita's faux inlaid wood, double-deck (each with round-ball
feet) stand for egg
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/clayday/egg_denita3.jpg
Chryse Laukkonen's curved ropes stand
http://members.aol.com/Laukkonen/index.html
Marina's simple twisted ropes and rounded disk (or donut?) stands
***
look now at ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itinglese/euova.htm
Anything can be used to make an egg stand. Steven Ford makes his own with black clay and three little stubby legs. ...Some will use the curtain rings. I've also use the pieces of pvc (tube) from the plumbers supplies counter in the hardware store. Sand off the sharp edges with a stone on a dremel or carving tool and spray paint with the stone look paint or any color you want to match or contrast the egg. It depends on the look your after. Lucille
Georgia
Ferrell made cool stands for her eggs using wire... she just spiraled
one end of the wire (or joined it as a closed loop), then continued the spiraling
smaller, the continued the spiral larger, so that when the spiral was pulled apart,
the first end would sit on a table, the smaller spiral provides support, but the
last spiral encircles the bottom of the egg
http://www.geocities.com/sopcg/MemberGeorgia.html
The
easiest way to hang an egg is to use the one of the two holes that
you used to blow the egg out. Get a very thin piece of wood like a tooth pick,
the thinner the better and tie a string on it. Push the toothpick in the
hole and tug a little and it will hold. -NF
...Or if you can't find a thin
enough toothpick try tying & gluing some monofilament around a straight pin
& doing the same thing. catbyte1
...take a needle and thread, or
a wire with a bent and twisted bit on the end, to make a needle-eye shape.
Run the needle and sewing thread down through BOTH holes in a pierced egg (after
baking) and then run it back UP through both holes--leave a loop of thread trailing
out the bottom of the eg, with the tail end and the needle and thread end now
sticking out the top. Take a narrow satin ribbon (up to 1 inch wide will
still work, usually) cut a foot or less of the ribbon. Feed it through the thread
loop to about the mid point of the ribbon. Grab both thread and needlethread ends
at the top, and pull gently but firmly. The ribbon will be pulled by the thread
up through the egg. Stop when you have a loop of ribbon at the top,and ribbon
ends hanging out the bottom. Tie a knot in the ribbonloop at the top, by curling
it around on itself, move the knot close to the egg hole. Then tie the ends at
the bottom into a knot or bow, trim the ends, add a tassle or whatever if desired.
Sarajane
Denita's
fancy hanging eggs (with tassels/beads/etc., top and bottom)
http://polymerclaycentral.com/eggs2.html
~Oakridge (lots of 1/2" and 1/4"
scale stuff... even metal wheels to put on your eggs).
http://www.oakridgehobbies.com/
Sammy
wood eggs are okay – see Shaneangel’s explanation above in Diagonal covering
white
china ("paintable") eggs, and stands
http://www.rynnechina.com/products.htm
(see LynnDel's lesson on covering a crumpled aluminum foil egg form with strips of clay from noodle cutters, then slices, in Kids & Beginners > Working with & Teaching Kids). . . one tiny pin hole needed!
I
work over a blown out egg, cure and then break and remove the shell....
it can be a bit tricky but dental tools reach through the holes quite nicely.
Sammy
(see Vinegar Eggs on this page for lots more)
papier
mache eggs (actually part plastic)
... covering is NOT a
great idea because the egg-sized ones are really
PVC eggs (they are sold separately,
usually in pastel colors, sometimes on stems for flower arrangements) covered
with only about one layer of brown paper on them.
(pinch them lightly and they will give but bounce back.) . ...so, even if you
puncture them with a needle first, the air inside expands when baking and causes
BIG cracks sometimes... air bubbles and lumps other
times
...however....some or all of
these eggs may work fine if they're first covered with a layer of aluminum
foil:
.....open-cell polystyrene foams (foam bubbles
are interconnected as in a kitchen sponge) have a somewhat rough surface,
can see the insides of the bubbles on surface of shape (clinky "Styrofoam"
in the US?)... craft eggs made this way are often covered with a
layer of papier maché so their surface is more acceptable
to crafters for painting, etc. ...see more on doing this in Covering
> Plastic > #6 Polystyrene)
(...LARGER
papier mache items which are cardboard or something underneath, might
still work great.)
(for
papier mache eggs which actually have plastic form underneath, see
paragraph just above)
Plastic eggs are so inexpensive and easy
to find and come a nice variety of sizes-- I love em! ...(another reason
real eggs can be troublesome is that in this
day of industrial farming our eggs are not always as strong as they used
to be- or should be). Kathndolls
some
of the all-plastic
Easter Eggs seem to melt in the oven, when
others don’t
....so how can you tell which ones work?
....I'm not
positive, but I think that the results I get for the plastic eggs are similar
to the results for the pens - the more rigid, brittle plastics melt at lower temperatures,
whereas the more flexible plastic ones (think nylon) type work better at
polymer clay temperatures.
.....Even then I get better results if I cook at
approx. 250-265 rather than the 275 that I usually use.
....I have
also noticed that with the eggs, that the thickness of the first layer
of clay makes a difference in how quickly the eggs melt, as if the clay acts
as an insulating layer for the plastic while the polymer clay sets up.
...
Interesting aside... I have subsequently cut open perfectly shaped polymer eggs
which were baked on plastic eggs and found that the plastic egg did melt to a
lump inside, but only after holding up long enough to act as a baking support,
and to leave the sort of shiny surface inside that you get from baking polymer
clay on smooth tiles or glass. Sara Jane in NC
One
brand name of the eggs that don't melt is those made
by Dudley..... I bought a bag of 12 pastel medium sized eggs for .69 from
a small card store that was carrying Easter items. I baked one egg for about 25
minutes uncovered and it held it's shape perfectly. It even has the hole in it.
It's distributed by a company called Paper Magic Group out of Scanton,
PA. Oscelyn
.......My best results were with the Dudley brand- it already
had holes! I haven't had any trouble with them... my guild did an egg exchange...
everyone used the plastic eggs and no problem. I think I've heard of a few of
them melting- but that was inside the polymer egg. Kathndolls
...I got some eggs at Walmart the other day that work fine too. There's
no name on the bag ...just says 12 easter eggs..green label with
white letters. On the back of the label is says made in China ..marketed by Walmart
stores. Jan
...Walgreens Drug Stores have their own brand
of semi-soft plastic hinged eggs. I just tried one of the 3-1/2" Fill &
Fun Hinged Eggs this morning. They come on a 6 pack for .99.. They also come
in smaller sizes as well..... They held up well under the heat. I simply
poked a hole in one end with an exacto blade, covered and baked. Fantastic!!!
Crafty Michele
...Target's 48 eggs for $2.99- with holes in them
it just too easy! Kathndolls
What has
worked well for me are the plastic eggs that have hinges.
..
to use them, I placed several drops of Loctite Super Glue Gel around the
circumference of the joint between the halves, and glued the top to
the bottom. Then I used my clay blade to slice off the hinge.... Next,
I poked a tiny hole in the bottom center of the egg....And lastly,
added my clay.... I redrilled the tiny hole in the bottom through the
clay. Patty B.
......The hinge is just a little flap of plastic
that connects the top to the bottom...i shaved it off with a blade...no
biggie. lori
There are also plastic eggs
which open lengthwise (end to end) rather than around the waist...
they aren't easy to find yet, but have been spotted at places like Joann's,
grocery stores, and Rite Aid drug store...
...Wal-Mart had
eggs with their Easter stuff that were painted like smiley faces that opened long
way. Aunt Nete
....I saw a metal
egg that opens lengthwise.... its about 4 1/4" long and it had Whitman's candies
in it. Barb
The plastic eggs I purchased
from Michael's melted in the baking
. Oscelyn
...Some of the cheaper types would crack when you drill a hole
into them. Kathndolls
I've tried a number of eggs, and have had the best results using the inexpensive plastic eggs. You must poke a hole in them!! and in the clay to release the expanding air... I haven't had any failures with them! Kathndolls
You
want to drill a hole into the plastic egg before you cover it with clay...
then put a hole in your clay at the location of the original hole. You
don't want to wait until the clay is on it... I've had a few eggs crack and fail
at this point. That's no problem since you haven't invested any time or clay into
it!! Simply reach for another egg and try again. Of course I was just using an
awl and a drill bit probably would have been better... so I might
have had more failures than necessary. Kathndolls
.....instead
of drilling the hole in these plastic eggs - use a hot needle
tool to melt a hole! Helen
I
use the plastic eggs frequently and have had the following experiences re clay
thickness.
.... When using a thickness of about 3 or thicker on
my Atlas for the base cover, I get uniformly good results. No problems
with bubbles or with the egg inside melting.
....I discovered serendipitously
that the thinner base layers ( I think I was using
about a # 5) permitted enough heat transfer to melt the plastic egg
under the clay- but only late enough into the cooking process that the
clay still retained an egg shape
. . . . I got a similar response
to trying to create a "separatable egg" by twisting the eggs apart
after covering with the base layer but before applying cane slices. The egg inside
melted down, I am assuming, because the slight opening decreased the insulating
value of even the thicker clay..... BUT - since it still happened slowly enough
to retain the shape - I ended up with two egg halves that I was able to
turn into a nice hinged egg after **gently** peeling off the lump of melted
vinyl from the interior of the egg half in which it settled.... I admit I felt
lucky with that egg not caving in on me and havn't tried to repeat the experience,
since I haven't had any "extra" experimental canes lying around. ....The interior
of the halves, by the way was a lovely shiny finish like you get from baking
on direct contact with tiles.
...Back to the thinner base coats... I
had made several eggs with no apparent adverse effects on a 5 thickness base
clay when I got the first BIG bubble. The
egg was otherwise nice enough that I attempted to save it by gently flattening
the bubble while the egg was still hot from the oven, but was never able to get
it completely flat, and in sanding I found the area was thin enough to break almost
immediately.
.........By shaping of the luckily well placed hole, however,
I was still able to salvage the egg by turning it into a small birdhouse.
.....
I don't recommend the thinner base because of the problems with bubbling,
but I have had great results with using these plastic eggs otherwise.
.....
My nephew thinks the rattling egg is cool! (Sara Jane Whyte)
Linda
covers plastic eggs with clay to make large heads (on small necks/toros
and long legs) for her standing figures
http://www.itsjesterclay.com/theeggheads.htm
(not
necessarily polymer) ...a good way to hang plastic eggs is to get
some floral wire, cut lengths of about 3-4"
... then heat one end
over a candle for a few seconds and immediately press the hot end through the
end of a plastic egg.... then make a loop out of the other end of the wire
(would work better if the part just above the inserted end were curled a
bit??). I tried this and it worked like a charm, and it was so easy!
...(after
I'd wired 60 plastic eggs, I took them outside and wrapped the wire around the
little branches of the tree.) lake
OTHER TECHNIQUES & Coverings using EGGS
Cutting, carving, filigree, texturing, hinges, boxes
cutting an eggshell in half at the "waist" . .
.
....yes, there is loads you can do.. . . for just a clean cut around the
waist, you can use an emery disk (also called a cut off wheel) in
your Dremel (use this one for any straight or slightly curved cut).
... the
Dremel is fine for a lot of the work.. . the key is that diamond
dusted cutting bit. Joanie :o}
...For really intricate
cutting, a fast speed dental drill would be better... or a paragrave
tool that's specially made for the eggers. Joanie
....for something fancier
(like filigree) or smaller..., I use a diamond drill (bur or "flame")
( I have only done this with real eggs though, I have not worked with clay covered
eggs.)
electric carving, etching:
....see Tools/Dremel
....see the S-4040 RotoFlex for vibration-less (and dust-less) carving,
etching, etc., powered by a vacuum cleaner http://www.eggscope.com/
--click on Tools button (The Eggery Place will be moving...call
1-888-ASK-EGGS to find new web address if the old one is gone by now)
....Lucille's
many links to different electric carvers http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/Carvingtools.html
...Marina's
lesson on Carol Duvall show, cutting egg with Dremel
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_2104,00.html
...Lisa Pavelka's lesson on Carol Duvall, carving pattern through
a goose eggshell with Dremel
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_35082,00.html
http://www.hobbit-hollow.com/ has a lot of info on carving and making hinges in ostrich eggs, etc.
OR... cover the egg
with a base layer of clay and bake it.... then you can use either
a Dremel with a ‘cut off’ disk or a jewelers harp w/ an extra
fine blade to cut...
...or use just a a craft knife to cut it in half.
It takes a bit of strength to start the cut, but isn't hard to do. Being accurate
is! Gillian
...I wrap a string rather tightly around the raw clay on the egg,
and that gives a nice cutting guideline. It will be even & gets the
clay way thinner. Janey MN
. . .
once you get the egg apart if you want to remove the eggshell, you can
soak it in vinegar... it dissolves the shell. Shells are basically calcium
a base, and vinegar is an acid. Lysle
...once you have it cut in half, you
can cover the inside with another layer of clay, or with anything
else (such as a cloth lining) and embellish. Gillian
You
could use the two coverable pieces as an egg "box"; the halves could
be hinged or be nested leaving the bottom half's upper edge free
of clay so that the top half could fit down over it. . . . put in drawers,
doors.....the only limit is your imagination!!
...The important thing
with hinges is not to let the Krazy glue get into the moving parts.
Egg artists will put a little dab of petroleum jelly in the hinge
to protect it from the glue.
Lisa P's
Alice in Wonderland scene inside a hinged, decorated egg
http://pcpolyzine.com/0301january/lpcheshire.html
Treebelly
has many creative ideas for eggs... egg
houses, "cats," rattle, boxes, onlay, mosaics,
teapot, and many more.
http://www.treebelly.com/art/eggs/eggs.html
(click on each photo for many more
photos!)
PöRRö's theme eggs with tiny figures,
etc. on the outside, earthtone swirled background coverings (website
gone)
...I got an custom order from local Christian magazine to do
three easter eggs with the theme "uprising" to their Easter issue. The
names of the eggs are "grave", "task" and "tree of life". PöRRö
Jane
Pollack's uses oval shapes cut from eggs to create "batiked"
pins and earrings.. she cuts an oval shape from front of an egg with
Dremel & epoxying the back, to use as pin or earrings...she puts a
kind of mosaic look on the oval (but hers are actual batik)
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_8191,00.html
(find new URL at HGTV)
So many of the carving patterns can be used for clay. It just surprises me that more people don't do it. The chip carving would be really cool on an egg done in clay! Karen
Could a faux-broken-eggshells mosaic effect be created by placing a thin, dome-shaped sheet of baked clay on top of a sheet of raw clay, then be broken into many pieces by pressing down firmly on them to crackle the baked clay in pieces?? ...leaving spaces between the unevenly broken "tiles" in the raw clay (which acts as a grout)? Diane B.
Sherrall
Chapman's lessons on marbled, and decorated eggs (miniature)
http://miniatures.about.com/library/clay/blrecipe040900a.htm
Sherrall Chapman's lesson on making miniature boiled and pickled eggs (put in a jar) with clay and Envirotex http://miniatures.about.com/library/clay/bl071600eggs.htm
I have taken a silver bowl and filled it with cheese cloth dyed green as a nest - -- filled it with the most beautiful eggs I've seen around anywhere.
Vinegar to dissolve part of shell
Summary for vinegar eggs
DISSOLVING:
The time needed to dissolve the eggshell in vinegar depends both on the egg and
on the vinegar used. White, 5% vinegar is what's commonly available, but stronger
vinegar will take less time if you can find it; older vinegar is weaker and can
take longer than newly bought vinegar. Fresher eggs may have weaker shells and
therefore dissolve more easily. However, brown eggs are strong and take longer
(goose eggs will take even longer).
After
covering the bare egg with strips or bits of connected clay, bake the
egg, (sand at this point if you want to sand), then:
--put the egg
immediately into a small container of vinegar (use a spoon or something else to
keep it submerged); in 10-12 hours, use tweezers to pull out any rubbery remains;
usually there still remains a thin shell to be scraped away with either old dental
tools, or scrubbed away with q-tips.
--or you can speed up the process by
using a dental tool or small knife to poke a hole in some part of the exposed
egg rather than leaving it intact. . . or chip out more of the bare eggshell so
the vinegar can get inside; also, this way the egg doesn't float; or possibly
use aluminum foil under the raw clay?
--the longer the egg and raw clay are
in contact, the longer it takes for the vinegar to dissolve it
MISCELLANEOUS
comments from others:
The shell doesn't truly dissolve; it gets mushy
and I pull it out with tweezers; it looks like soggy paper.
I replace the
vinegar when a brown skum starts to show on the top of the container.
The
vinegar has tiny bubbles in it as it works.
I like to warm my vinegar in
the microwave a bit before using it. I feel it makes it work faster.
Eggshell would probably also dissolve in Coca Cola.
Mica powders baked
onto the clay aren't disturbed by soaking 24 hrs. in vinegar.
general
lesson: . . .
Cover empty egg with strips, ropes, tiles, etc.
with clay, leaving spaces between (a few or a lot), OR cover
the whole egg with clay, then cut out areas with little cutters
or an Xacto knife
Bake to harden clay.
Submerge egg in
vinegar to dissolve egg out... pick out any remaining pieces.
You should
now have a freestanding egg shape (with blank spaces), but without an eggshell
in it.
I poked a couple of holes in the shell where there was no filagree and soaked it for about 12 hours. I use these really strong brown eggs, so others might not take as long. The shell doesn't disolve, it gets mushy and then I pulled it out with tweezers. Not as gross as it sounds: the shell looked like soggy paper. Cathy NM
...You mentioned that chicken egg shell would desolve in 5 to 10 minutes. Not
true.... If you have seen the So.Ct guild's web site, you must have seen
my White House egg.That is a brown chicken egg etched in straight white vinegar
for 15 minutes. I think egg shell would also dissolve in coke. But
if you look in my egg lessons, there are 4 lessons on etching eggs, both
with vinegar and muriatic acid... Lucille from Ct
http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/Etching3.html
http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/Etching4.html
http://creativeside.com/cache/eggersu/artworks_by_lucille.htm
Shells are basically a base (calcium), and vinegar is an acid. Lysle
speeding up the vinegar or shell removal?
...I also have a hard time having the patience to wait for the egg to melt. I've
found the best way is to break out the egg that shows, so the vinegar can
get inside and the egg doesn't float from the bubbles that form. Then, after soaking
about an hour, I remove the yolk sack from the inside with tweezers or a needle
tool. That seems to let the vinegar reach the actual shell faster. My latest one
soaked off completely overnight. codysmom42
.......why not cover the egg with
aluminum foil first then clay (wax would not work as it melts at much lower
temperatures) . . . if you apply the foil like washi eggs, keeping it as smooth
as possible, you shouldn't have much work pulling the foil out of the clay, either.
Sunni
...I've found that
the longer the egg and clay are
together, the worse the clay sticks to the shell. I had some eggs that
sat for several weeks, and others I finished right away. It took forever for the
shell to dissolve on the eggs that had sat for a while. Claire
...don't use
old vinegar
btw- have you tried to 'heat' the vinegar first....I've found that it works FASTER when you warm it up a bit before you use it, no idea why, but it has worked faster, both for eggs and when I use to to remove nasty 'lime' deposits from my cat's water dish and my glasses etc. I just put it in the microwave and warm it up a bit, yeah it's smelly, but like I said, it works faster... Kim kcredcat
Always
ready to experiment, decided to cover an egg, leave spaces, bake,
and then dissolve the egg in vinegar leaving an egg-shaped-shape as described.
What I have done, is use a dental tool or small knife to poke a hole in
the exposed egg part, not necessary, but seems to speed up the process.
Then I put the egg in a cup, cover with white vinegar, and use a spoon to keep
the egg submerged. In ten to twelve hours, I use tweezers to pull out the
rubbery remains. Usually, there still remains a thin shell which I have scraped
away with either old dental tools, or scrubbed away with q-tips. The time it takes
to 'dissolve' the egg and the amount of 'shell' left seems to depend on the egg
and the vinegar. Brown eggs are stronger and take longer to dissolve
. . . . Fresh vinegar seems to be more acidic.
But I have had excellent results with this. DeB
On one group of eggs I cut
out airplanes and randomly connected them at the wings, making like a puzzle and
leaving quite a bit of egg shell exposed... really cute...a irplane shapes
kinda puzzle pieced together (I'm a student pilot) . Then I dissolved the
egg using the vinegar. An art teacher and an interior decorator bought them, comparing
them to an Escher print. Thank you...thank you...Glass Attic. This is FUN! DeB
I am going to get some stronger vinegar. What I had on hand last night
was 5% white. I'm goin' for the good stuff now. I can see little hearts all tucked
together for Valentine's day, and Shamrocks, and more airplanes:) DeB
The stronger (the vinegar) the better, I use the cheapest, and when a brown skum starts to show on the top of the cup, I empty it out and put fresh in. (How long to soak it is) a bit like, how long is a piece of string, overnight usually does the trick, It takes a lot longer with the geese eggs, the bantam eggs are the quickest. The vinegar has tiny bubbles in it as it works. Mary
mica powders . . . I use them all the time on my eggs and the
vinegar doesn't affect it . I just
put the mica powder on the eggs where I want it and after they're baked the powder
is on to stay... After soaking in the vinegar (usually 24 hours) the eggs come
out fine. Then I varathane them and they're nice and shiny. Tinyntuf
...Pokopat
has a beautiful Balinese Filigree vinegar egg which is all gold-highlighted
(prob. with powder), or maybe it's all gold and then antiqued
I
used my little star cutter (plunger-type)... after I covered the eggshell
with solid raw clay, I cut out the little stars & removed them with a needle,
then the vinegar dissolved the stars away so that it is "lacey". I notice that
there is still some cleanup to do around the stars -- I'll clean that up with
a needle...bj
....If you wanted to light them, you could do them like
Carol Beebe did with her tiny polymer xmas houses . . . she arranged them over
a string of small xmas lights, both on her mantle and on the xmas tree. They were
so-o-o cute. You could make a groove in both sides of the egg hole to allow for
the cord, or you could make some kind of light-shield border/cuff around the egg
hole or around each light if necessary. Or you could maybe do something fancy
and have one or more eggs sitting on holes in the top of a box with a light under
it. . . I think the light should shine up into the bottom of each egg that way?
Diane B.
I'm working on a (vinegar) egg box (with lots of space) now . . . Denita (see below in Misc. for cutting eggs in half l)
here is what I do. I put someTLS in a syringe. and as I add each new coil, or strand of clay, I put down some tls between where coils touch. after I get the whole egg done, and cured, then I soak out the egg shell. it really did make a huge difference in how strong my vinegar eggs were. Kellie
Could place ropes on egg, bake, then fill the cells with tinted liquid clay (or maybe even Varathane, etc.?), then rebake, before placing in vinegar to simulate stained glass or cloisonne??
BJ covered an egg with impressions from a rubberstamp
and then cut around the design with an Exacto knife. ...covered
them with Pearl-ex before baking . When the vinegar dissolved the
egg shell, they looked like they're carved.
...I had tried to
smooth them as much as I dared, but I didn't want to smooth out the detail, so
I just sort of pressed them lightly onto the egg shell. I did find out, though,
with the next ones I tried, that you do have to coat the egg shells
with Sobo or something similar to give the clay something to adhere
to... tacky glue worked too, but it takes longer to dry . BJ
....using molded
items would work the same way...
MORE IDEAS
--dioramas
(leaving half of the egg or only a window of it uncovered, so that things could
be placed in the egg, or be hatching/rising out of it)
--use the egg as a
form for something else (to make a lacy skirt, vase with a small opening,
etc.)
.......http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/dolleggs.html
--could make an ocarina, etc.? by dissolving out the shell from a few blow
holes (see Kids > Toys >Other
Ideas for lesson)
--one
person made a little airplane with an egg
..... animal or figure
bodies, etc.... like this cat (which is also a shaker)
.........
http://www.dancinghanddesigns.com/images/swirlycat.jpg
--use some of the same ideas you might with the broken-out-bulb
technique…(see Covering >
Glass > lightbulbs)
--link
hearts, shamrocks, etc., for a themed egg . . . . .or make a light-weight
ornament
(see more on dioramas, etc. below in Dioramas)
I've
created the same effect with hollow paperclay balls,
and soaked the balls in water to remove the paper clay. To make the polymer clay
stick to the paperclay, I used a glue stick here and there on the design. Katherine
Dewey
(see also Cornstarch for
using cornstarch and other melt-able armatures)
(see also: Canes/Instructions/
Using Wax to Make Holes)
(see also Beads
> Holey Beads)
Bev's lesson on partly
covering a blown egg with Balinese Filigree-type ropes of clay
(on a dried layer of white glue)... before soaking in vinegar
... after embellishing half of the egg, she baked it in
order to be able to handle doing the second half without squishing it
...
before the last bake, she brushed a bit of liquid clay on all
the joined areas to strengthen them
http://www.gapcguild.com/lessons/filigreeeggs.htm
Flo's many "filigree" eggs (not much open space); she
used vinegar and dental picks to get the shell out
...also dioramas, etc.
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=297873&uid=155794
*Gail's openwork eggs (leaves and vines with bugs,
and a leafy tree with fruit)
http://members7.clubphoto.com/gail412387/Gail_Clay_Eggs/
(gone)
Pat S's openwork eggs (only wide
vertical strips... with a few flowers, vines, leaves onlaid)
http://www.brpcg.com/Galleries/pat/eggsforswap03.jpg
Gilda's various vinegar and other eggs (Medieval egg has only two arch
shapes removed from it)
http://members2.clubphoto.com/gilda220950/1037648/guest.phtml
(gone)
Darla's filigree vinegar eggs
http://home.comcast.net/~puffinalia/commentspagepics/dsargeant.jpg
Charleen's (canejane) mostly dissolved egg, with four bands
of clay around egg and flowers, embellishment on top
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=690120&uid=502621
(gone)
Marina's openwork eggs (and other eggs)
http://www.marieidraghi.it/uova_eggs.htm
Marie
S's diorama eggs, with simple sculpts, flowers,etc. inside
...
opening cut oval (or with top swag), outlined with braiding/etc.,
embellished with rhinestones, etc... some interiors coated with opalescent
glitter
http://www.clayfactory.net/marie/oldstuff2.htm
Darla's 3 eggs with areas cut out of the raw clay before baking
(with a cutting tool or little cutters?)
http://polymerclaycentral.com/eggs2.html
Denita's partly covered eggs...some have open tops, or lots
of open space! etc.
http://djoneofakindcrafts.com/eggs.html
Felicia's partly covered egg, with two large face cane slices on the
upright sides
http://polymerisland.com/eggs.html
(click on the faces)
Deb's
(fromtherightbrain's) Easter-type basket made on an egg with handle,
the egg removed
http://community.webshots.com/photo/18564524/18565541UjkUPgtves
Kathy's 2 vinegar eggs ...one
diorama & one ropey vinegar egg (with flowers on
top)
http://www.kathyweinberg.com/eggs.html
Mary V's openwork eggs (leaves/vines/flowers/bugs and dragons, etc.)
..also
textured baroque egg w/ embedded sishka mirrors + glass pebbles,
heavily highlighted w/ gold http://hobbystage.net/art/airliefairy/
http://hobbystage.net/art/mysecretgarden
(hobbystage gone)
Dioramas
Bev's diorama eggs (cane slices on outside) and her
hints on how to make them
(she gently drills a hole in the baked cane-covered
egg, then gently bites little pieces at a time off with needlenose pliers; then
gently smooths the edge with sandpaper or files before adding a bit of trim)
http://www.yeoldouthouse.com/polymerclay.html
and http://www.yeoldouthouse.com/clayhints.html
(gone)
PolymerClayCentral egg challenge, with several dioramas
including Kim K's dragon in "castle window" egg
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/chall_apr01.html
Korena's diorama of easter bunny scene (sideways)... with faux
icing (twisted white rope) outlining window in egg like sugar egg
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/chall_mar05.html
Denita's fancy unusually-shaped cutout and framing for diorama egg
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/clayday/egg_denita1.jpg
Marie
Segal's eggs, some with cutouts as "dioramas"
http://www.clayfactory.net/marie/gallery8.htm
Kathy's many beautiful vinegar eggs,
some dioramas
NOW
AT? .... http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumList?u=4153008hyweinberg/eggs.htm
Norajean's
Day of the Dead diorama.. hinged egg
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1751108&a=13492257&f=0
Hobbit
Hollow's Puff the Magic Dragon and small scene diorama...the part removed
is the whole top half (just in front)... then scene is then placed on an
area level with the bottom of the window (on top of some filler) (in an ostrich
egg)
http://www.hobbit-hollow.com/
(click on Gallery 2)
egg "house" in tree (back side
is diorama to show interior 2 floors, door and window could be
open spaces for those items, or their frames--not polymer, but could be?)
http://www.minimotion.com/minipage/egghouse/eggpage.html
diorama with egg... mouse and wooded scene inside
(not polymer)
http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/TreeBark.html
Susan's kid's eggs (cutout dioramas) --not polymer, but could be (website
gone)
see more on dioramas (and ways of making them with vinegar dissolving out the eggshell) above . . . also see Cutting shells, etc., on this page
I wanted to ask if you knew anything about the kind of eggs my great aunt used to make for xmas (my sisters and I joined in a bit sometimes) back in the 50's. They were tree ornaments, but sometimes she would glue a curtain ring on the bottom of one for stand-up display.. . . After blowing out the egg she cut a large oval opening in one side (with curved fingernail scissors?). Inside she placed an oval cut-out picture from the front of one of last year's xmas cards; on the interior bottom she glued a bit of cotton then glued into that an arrrangment of flowers and leaves made from small (dyed?) shell pieces (bowl and flake shaped) in green, pink, and coral, etc., which she'd made and dried separately on a sheet of glass with Duco Cement (these shell pieces were purchased). Then she'd glue pearls all around the outside rim of the opening and behind that a layer of gathered lace. And lastly, she crocheted a hanger for the top hole from very thin cording. There may be more, but those are the parts that stick in my mind. I'd love to see some examples of what she did if it was a popular style at the time, or to know how much of it she made up. Does that ring any bells with you? Diane B.
I'll make
the "floor" inside the diorama from a clay disk
...for
the smaller items I want to add inside the egg, I'll bake them
right onto the disk .... but for the larger things, I'll bake
them separately and then glue into the egg through the window.
I have also done eggs with the egg "laying down", and a small window ... it can be done
enclosed dioramas
" Sugar eggs" often have dioramas
inside a hollow egg shape ... there's a hole for viewing at one end, and often
a hole (or translucent hole) in the top of the egg so the more light can get into
the diorama ..here's a lesson for making sugar eggs: http://www.recipegoldmine.com/holidayeaster/easter77.html
(...the recipe and lesson for making sugar skulls is similar, adding meringue
powder for hardness: http://www.mexicansugarskull.com/mexicansugarskull/recipe.htm)
...4 1/2 c (or 5 lbs) of superfine (or regular) sugar,
plus 3 Tbsp water (plus 1/4 c mergingue powder) (pulse reg. sugar in blender few
sec's for superfine, or buy it)…
........some tips: cover
sugar with damp paper towel to prevent drying out while working
. . . humidity can be a problem and will retard drying (can take 10 min,
or lots longer...or bake to dry them at 200 degrees (eggs 6" or more = 20
min, smaller eggs = 10 min)... (invert molded sugar onto cardboard or baking sheet...breaks
or cracks appear, re-pack and try again) .…surface will feel firm... let stand
at room temperature for about 2 min... gently hollow out the interior of
the sugar egg (which isn't yet set) till the shell is 1/4-1/2" thick....rub
rough edges of sugar halves on sandpaper in circles
We should
be able to do similar things with polymer clay:
...we
could put our own polymer items into diorama sugar eggs
...we
could make polymer egg halves instead of using sugar, and then add
polymer or non-polymer items ...the holes could be cut out while the clay
is raw
...if the (half) mold
itself were created from polymer clay, then the mold could be used for making
either a sugar or polymer egg (using a plastic egg half for the form or
something else) ...after mold is baked and cooled, it could then be lined with
a sheet of aluminum foil which would allow the inside polymer items to
be built right into the egg half and also baked in the mold to retain
the correct shape (after baking, remove foil and glue polymer parts back in, or
lift out and gently reinsert with liquid clay) ...a clay ring or other clay bit
could be added to the bottom of the egg as a stand
(...see
also Vinegar Eggs above, Beads > Hollow
or Molds, and Halloween for
more on skulls)
for simulating icing decorations, see Clay Guns > Icing tips...and also Korena's easter bunny diorama above
figures
bodies
or heads or body-head units could be created by covering
an egg to look like a human or animal figure
....glass ball ornaments
and solid wood shapes are used this way as well (see Covering
>Glass or >Wood for some of those)
... would make a lightweight
figure
*Karen's lesson on face-and-body
figure (Santa, etc.), made over wooden egg--could use regular blown egg
or papier mache egg tho
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_WoodenEggSanta.htm
Dawn Sch's fish
with egg? as body... added fins, tail (or could be egg)
http://members.aol.com/rhaiven/critter_fish.jpg
lesson
on making penguin with all-clay egg shape (could cover an eggshell instead
of making solid)
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/projectsheet?pid=c00139
Michaels'
lesson on making Mr/Mrs Bunny on an egg with onlays of clothing,
noses, feet (use polymer clay instead of Makins')
http://www.michaels.com/art/online/projectsheet?pid=e03890
Ellen's
old man face over egg body
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/clayday/egg_ellen4.jpg
Dawn
Sch's egg armatures under heavily sculpted caricature heads, on
whimsical long legs, Humpty
http://www.pacificnet.net/~rhaiven/eggcentric.html
tallmouse's
snowman, reindeer, penguin eggs ... onlays on egg with many materials,
but could be polymer
http://www.tallmouse.com/projects/xmas/xmaseggs/index.htm
Jenny's fat cats built on ceramic eggs, with "clothing"
(website gone)
Joanie's horned
eggs ("jackalopes") (website gone)
.......(see more in Sculpting?)
other ideas
Treebelly has many creative ideas
for eggs... including egg"
houses," "cats," rattle, boxes, onlay, mosaics,
etc.!!
http://www.treebelly.com/art/eggs/eggs.html
(click on each photo for many more
photos!)
Maura's very fancy doll and flowers on top of
egg?
http://bussola.supereva.it/italyclay/book/foto/maura3.jpg
Deb's (fromtherightbrain's) chrysanthemum cane-covered egg, with spider
on top
http://community.webshots.com/photo/18564524/18683178llXhKlJggW
Bob's flat, layered egg shape
http://www.crosswinds.net/~rwiley/clay_gallery.html
Tallulah's egg box, on stand
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=750687&uid=527261
Valerie's egg-artichoke layered with cane
slices in relief
http://www.homestead.com/falczx/Eggs.html
*Chryse Laukkonen's mosaic eggs & backfilled eggs
http://members.aol.com/Laukkonen/index.html
Nae has backfilled the depressions
left on a Balinese Filigree egg with a contrasting clay, then sanded
.....(a photo will eventually be at her website? http://home.earthlink.net/~thenae/eggs.html)
Claire's twisted square rope Balinese filigree
egg . . .I made a rainbow skinner blend using Premo fuschia, zinc yellow,
and cobalt blue, and then combined a strip of the rainbow with a pearl/silver
blend (Mike Buesseler "platinum") ...Kellie suggested using TLS as you
go to improve the strength of the touching filigree spirals
http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL9/125958/222697/8583348.ptp
Claire's flat noodle egg
http://pic2.picturetrail.com/VOL9/125958/222697/8583342.ptp
Corgi's translucent egg! with cane slices (she only had two
small holes to let the egg out)
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/clayday/egg_corgi.jpg
slices from translucent canes can be onlaid
onto an egg covered wtih base clay or with patterned clay... because they use
both translucent and opaque clays in one cane, these (very thin) slices will appear
to float above the surface . . . the translucent parts will not show up
(for
more on translucent canes, see Canes-Instr.>Translucent
Canes)
I like to use real eggs and cover them with a design that
includes translucent clay so you can see the real egg inside.
obirtasil
...Oooo, neat. If doing this, you might be able to light them
from inside perhaps by inserting a tiny white or colored xmas light...these
could be stabilized somehow with a base, or placed in a bowl or table- or mantle-top
nest of raffia, in among a horn of plenty or flowers/veggies, etc., for decoration
or centerpiece. . . . I can see them stamped/carved, covered with translucent
canes, stained glass-ed with clays or TLS, decal-ed, etc., etc.! .
. . any holiday or special occasion would work too for themes. Diane B.
flat
onlay . . . placing individual slices one at a time on a base to create
a "picture" or design can be used for eggs too
--see
Canes-Instr.>Overall Techniqes
for more on this method
Margaret
Regan introduced me to "acoustic eggs". She puts sand, beads, or other
materials that rattle inside the eggshell before covering.
Another wonderful sensory reaction.
....Mary Lyon's lesson on covering
an egg, stamping with powders, then filling with small beads, BBs
or small plastic pellets ... . ..she says organic materials such as rice
and unpopped popcorn may also be used but don't produce as crisp
a sound as manmade products or other manmade bits
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/nh_other/article/0,2025,DIY_14147_2269547,00.html
.....I make tiny balls of clay (& bake them)... then put in 5 or
6 in through the drain hole (on a raw covered ? egg) ... then close up that end
the same as the other end....(tip: roll raw clay covered egg around in your hands
and on a surface to smooth it)... pierce thru clay where the drain hole
is with the needle tool to release the air while it bakes ...bake
...some
of the eggs had sand or something inside them ...and she made stands
for each egg to sit on
....Jodie's were
cut out...really neat mosaic cut out designs...great work!
...we had
kaleidescope eggs, mokume gane eggs, caned eggs, and even
a free form with flower sculpture on the egg, eggs..
make
a curved image transfer on an egg using
Lazertran Silk paper (see Transfers/Color Images):
Spray the image
with 3M photo spray mount and apply to polyclay. Allow to dry, wet backing
paper and the image releases in 1 minute. This allows the polyclay to be shaped
after the
image has transferred. Mick
when doing mokume gane on eggs I use a translucent base. Then I take my mokume slices and place them slightly overlapping on a piece of waxed paper until I have a big enough sheet of them to cover the egg. Dotty (see above in Raw Base Layer for more on her technique)
"
ghost " images (on eggs):.... I rolled out a sheet of pearl green
#4 on p.m..... rubber stamped a pattern (with baby powder and a deep stamp,
lifting stamp out several times, stamping almost all the way through) (on a piece
of patty paper).... smooshed it back mostly flat (by pressing seams back together,
NOT rolling over)
... cut the sheet to fit the egg.... pressed the top
side to the egg (NOT the stamped side!).... closed the seams (by gently rolling
fingers over to avoid a mark)... poked a hole, baked, sanded,sanded,sanded (nothing
will show up at first, until the "bottom" of the stamped area begins to show),and
finally, Futured.
....the lines from the stamp are a dark green the
unstamped areas are pearl. The neat thing is that the mica flakes tilt
upwards as they reach a line, so there appears to be a dished effect in
the spaces.
Flint’s
lesson for ghost images on eggs (sanded
mokume technique):
...In brief, I rolled out a sheet of pearl green, rubber stamped a pattern, smooshed
it back mostly flat, cut the sheet to fit the egg, pressed the _top_ side to the
egg, closed the seams, poked a hole, baked, sanded,sanded,sanded,and finally,
Futured. The lines from the stamp are a dark green the unstamped areas are pearl.
The neat thing is that the mica flakes tilt upwards as they reach a line, so there
appears to be a dished effect in the spaces.
Details: CFC Pearl green worked
really well. Pearl Red worked less well and Fimo didn't work well at all. By this
I mean that with the green I got a big difference in color between the lines and
the areas. I used a # 4 setting on my Italian Pasta Queen. I used the geometric
stamps which are especially deep.
Measure the egg. With these stamps and fairly
small eggs I need 5 stamps around and three long.
Later we will
cut the clay to make it fit, but think "5 wedges will come together to
make the final pattern". You might have to add an eighth between each.
Put
baby powder on a washcloth and pat the stamp on the cloth before each stamp.
Press it nearly through the clay. It seemed that lifting several times helped
reduce sticking. The surface you are working will contact the egg, so don't powder
it. On my most successful egg I put baby powder on my work surface so the clay
wouldn't stick. I am not convinced yet that this is a good idea: a tissue blade
would probably separate it without disturbing the mica. (--or better, do this
on Patty papers.)
With the sheet still flat on the table, gently push the
clay back into the lines. Try to close the grooves rather than squash them flat.
Using a tissue blade, cut curves so you wind up with this pattern:
/
\ / \ / \ / \ / \
( )( )( )( )( ) (all one piece)
\ / \ / \ / \ / \ /
For a good idea of what it should look like, cover an egg, cut the cover
into 5 slices, remove and press flat. Remember the ends taper differently
Cover your egg. Take your time putting it in the right place. Wrap the clay around
the egg, check that the points will come together at both ends. Gently close the
seams. The cut surfaces should pe pressed together, NOT smushed. If you smoosh
them you will get dark spots where the mica was disturbed, instead, stretch the
wedge. If you find this too dificult, you can cut the ends off and leave a patterned
band and replace the end with a contrasting solid color #4 sheet (Tomato Red looks
nice with Pearl Green)
Gently massage the seams until you are convinced they're
closed.
Make a pinhole in one egg. You can close it up so it is barely visible
but don't close it entirely.
Bake. Preheat the oven, rest the egg on batting.
Sand. When you start there will be no pattern evident, All the pattern
is in the bulk of the clay so you have to go down a ways, so start out with coarse
paper. I use 120 grit drywall sanding mesh with cold water. Watch the pattern
emerge. The colors won't be fully evident with this coarse paper. I shift down
to 220 (dry) then 320, 400, and 600 (all wet) coat with Future. Enjoy !! Flint
PolymerClayCentral's 5 pages of eggs from Egg Clay Day
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/eggs1.html
many
eggs from ClayPen clayers http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/claypen_eggs1.html
(click also on pg. 2)
Egg Swap 1998 (many caned eggs) http://polymerclaycentral.com/pcc/swapegg1998.html
Great Egg Swap 1—Delphi, http://polymerclaycentral.com/pcc/eggswap1.html
Treebelly’s many different! eggs (houses, rattle, "boxes",
onlay)
http://www.treebelly.com/art/eggs/eggs.html
Marie
Segal's many eggs, covered, as "dioramas", with
embellishments, etc.
http://www.clayfactory.net/marie/gallery8.htm
M.Reid’s eggs, http://members.aol.com/polyopoly/misc.htm
Nae's many eggs http://home.earthlink.net/~thenae/eggs.html
(click on pages 2 & 3 also)
*Denita's many kinds
of mica effects (on wood? eggs)
http://djoneofakindcrafts.com/micashift.html
CZC: frame, shadings, "eggs" http://www.cityzencane.com/
*Chryse Laukkonen's many beautiful eggs (backfilled,
mosaic, etc.)
http://members.aol.com/Laukkonen/index.html
Charleen's
various eggs http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=690120&uid=502621
Joanie’s mokume and other beautiful
eggs http://www.pbase.com/joanie/eggs_gallery
Kathy W's textured eggs covered with mica powders
http://people.delphiforums.com/kkephart/eggs.htm
Sarajane’s *onlay and powdered eggs, http://www.polyclay.com/eggs.htm
Linda Goff’s mosaic ostrich
egg (soon to be at) http://www.lindagoff.com/
Kim K's various eggs
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=283679&uid=144121
Denita's various eggs
http://djoneofakindcrafts.com/shopping/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=3&cat=Eggs
Felicia's various eggs
http://polymerisland.com/eggs.html
Lisa P's mostly carved eggs (cutting through, relief carving, etching/scrimshaw)
http://www.heartinhandstudio.com/egg_gallery.htm
Lucille's
carved & misc. eggs
(website gone)
Darlene K's fancy eggs, some with sculpted dragons around, etc.
http://www.artistryineggs.com/ (click
on Gallery 9)
Miki’s open-work
and animal-armature eggs
http://members.xoom.com/mikizeggs/
Martha Stewart's photos and
small lesson on (pussy willow or twisted wire) trees for hanging eggs
http://marthastewart.com/page.jhtml?type=content&id=channel1530&catid=cat290
*Desiree's caned, onlaid, textured eggs (website
gone) (DB re-add my photo of it)
*Debbie
Anderson's horizontal strips egg, each strip with a different pattern (website
gone) (DB re-add my photo of it)
Byrd’s
caned diagonal-wound eggs (website
gone)
Lisa's marbled,spiraled,mica-ed, Elissa-ed eggs (website
gone) (DB re-add)
Susan Larussi's many different,
very fancy eggs (carved, diorama, mixed media, Faberge-type, etc.) (website
gone)
LynnDel's many eggs(website gone)
Leap
year egg swap, (website
gone)
lori's? eggs for swap,
(website gone)
Flo's eggs with many techniques (website
gone)
all
kinds of eggs (polymer & not).... message board ... etc.
http://www.creativeside.com/
NON-polymer eggs
*Lucille's gathered info
on doing all kinds of things to eggs
http://members.tripod.com/~LuJS/EggLessons-INDEX.HTML
pysanky lessons
http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/amorash/ukregg.html
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_18346,00.html
psyanky
and other egg supplies (but no photos!..boohoo)
http://pages.prodigy.com/esuark/pysanky.htm
templates for psyanky (or caned?) eggs, plus "craft lathe" for
holding eggs and turning them against a pencil to mark straight divisions
on eggs
http://www.atu1.com/Supplies/aids.htm
To join the eggers' mailing list group:
e-mail majordomo@creativeside.com ....&
in the body type subscribe eggdomo (your e-mail address) end
(example: subscribe eggdomo yanez@bright.com end)
EGG SUPPLIERS
LOCAL:
... for quail eggs, go
to a health food or organic grocery store. Buy them and blow them
out. Michele
...If you have a Japanese grocery store near you, you can
purchase tiny quail eggs there. Stephanie
ONLINE:
The eggers 'mailing list has advertising day on the 10th and 25th of each month. That is for egging supplies. Lucille
(Lucille
S.) Since I'm the supply list keeper on the egger's list, here's what I have where
all kinds of eggs are available. I buy all my eggs by mail.
HOW TO MEASURE
AN EGG: With a flexible measuring tape, start at one end lenthwise and go
around the whole egg back to the beginning. That will give you the size of the
egg.
IF NOT NOTED, BE SURE TO ASK IF THE EGGS ARE EMPTY AND CLEANED.
Janet Marie Birney Ostrich eggs for sale one hole and cleaned eggs are
$10 to $12, averaging 16 to 17 inches. A few smaller ones are available. Shipping
is extra. (Ohio) Email me for more information. jmb@raex.com
farmwoman@usa.net Small white goose eggs, Large white duck eggs, Medium
green and blue-green eggs, Beige bantam eggs, Tiny bantam pullet eggs Buyer pays
shipping within the United States Email directly for information farmwoman@usa.net
Visit Atomic Women's site: http://members.tripod.com/~LittleRed_2/
gbetsivs@infinet.com
Rhea and Goose Shells cleaned and sterilized. Shipping is actual cost of US
postal service.
Mary's Menagerie Goose eggs, duck rheas, turkey, ostrich,
bobwhitte, emu and crocodile eggs Mary Pruett 11810 Oakwood Drive Austin, TX 78753
(512) 836-0294 10 am to 9 pm (central)
Gary Gunn gwgunn@airmail.net
Emu eggs for sale $4 ea + s&h cleaned and sterilized
borobbins@seidata.com
emu eggs cleaned, disinfected $5.00 each + s/h. Bonnie Robbins Tub Creek Emu
Farm Greensburg, IN
RheaShell@aol.com
clean and sterilized rhea eggs Prices are: 1 to 12 @ $10.00 13 to 24@
$ 9.00 25 or more@$ 8.00 ea. plus postage Julie
d'Shae - DSHAEV@aol.com
Blown Emu, Rhea and Ostrich Eggs, egg stands, video - Scratch Art on Emu Eggs
Jeff Bridges - Blown Eggs, Feathers Rocky Mountain Specialty Quail 725
Mathews Fort Collins,Colorado 80524 bridgesj@wingedwonders.com
http://www.wingedwonders.com/eggs/craft.htm
hunney@hunneysnest.com
I have bob white quail, duck and pheasant (I have different species of pheasant,
resulting in colors ranging from a creamy color to green to chocolate brown) Limited
supply of pigeon and turkey and very few chukar Visit Hunney's Nest
http://www.hunneysnest.com
KINGEMU1@aol.com
Have a large supply of emu eggs. Buy 10 or more at $3 each plus shipping and
handling. For extra large eggs they are $7 each plus shipping. We guarantee our
eggs. Marsha King Divine Dromaius, LLC
minisr4me@home.com
Come visit my new website: http://www.shell-a-brations.com/
Rhea Eggs $8.00. All eggs have 1 hole in the large end. Buyer pays shipping &
handling.
Rhonda, Tennessee Rhonda's Egg Shell-A-Brations Dorothy
D. Bodenhamer dotb1@flash.net all
sizes, and assorted eggs chicken, guinea,turkey, peacock, goose,emu, rhea, and
Ostrich. All have one hole centered and clean. email for the prices on the different
eggs...
Ridgewood Ratites http://www.bigbirds.com/ridgewood
for sale Ostrich and emu eggs, emu oil soap Bill Spainhoward Ridgewood Ratites
9282 Ridgewood Rd. Henderson,KY 42420 tel. 270-826-6239 oe1@henderson.net