history
of jewelry (and links to other histories)
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/History/jewelhome.html
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/index.html (look under Articles)
ONLINE
jewelry GROUPS
Polymer
Clay Jewelry forum on Delphi
http://forums.delphiforums.com/PCJewelry/start
…("meeting place for experienced polymer
clay artists and crafters who make polymer clay jewelry, and experienced jewelry
makers interested in expanding their art to include polymer clay. A background
in the basics of polymer clay is recommended. Though new clayers are welcome,
we will graciously provide them links to other quality sites for basic information.
Our focus is specifically on jewelry making, and all aspects of its construction,
including polymer clay components, findings, wirework, and mixed media...")
Jewelry
Making forum at Delphi (ask or answer questions & talk
about jewelry) …and definitely a lot of them work with wire too. Sunni . . .
http://www.delphi.com/ab-jewelrymkg/start
I
go to http://www.about.com and
read all their jewelry making tips. Lots of information there. And many
tutes on using wire. You can subscribe to the newsletter and it will tell you
when new stuff is up. Kim2
Beading
BOOKS-Videos and online
LESSONS
Creating Your Own Antique Jewelry :
Taking Inspiration from Great Museums Around the World (English title) by Cris Dupouy, (hardcover - September
2001), . great book on making jewelry
with polymer clay...the book is beautiful. I finally
saw it on the Amazon site. The author is French and this book was previously only
available in the French language. (There is now an English translation.) . Jacqueline
...
"The
Best Little Beading Book"
by Wendy Simpson Conner is one I would recommend for bead
stringing …about $24 I think, and a bead "bible"
of sorts. It will explain tons! Desiree
"The
Basics of Bead Stringing" by Genevieve Bourget (softcover)...I recommend
a great intro book filled with terrific info on putting jewelry together..
ISBN 0-9615353-0-x Dianne C..
"Step-by-Step
Bead Stringing" by Ruth F. Poris is one small, but very helpful book
is . It costs around $8 and even though small, it has lots of line drawings of
how-to do a lot of finishing techniques. It also lists tools that you need
to put together jewelry.
.... It's been around for a long time, but is
still available from Amazon.com, etc. However, it came out before Buna-N
cord and SoftFlex wires were available but these can be substituted for similar
items listed in the book. Dotty
Advanced Beadwork by Ruth Poris for bead stringing technique
Beads! by Stephany Tomalin for bead
stringing techniques.
"The
Complete Book of Jewelry Making" by Carles (Charles?) Codina is a beautiful
book which will probably have far more information in it than you need.
It goes into all types of jewelry making, but it has a wonderful section
on making closures, jump rings, etc.
....It's a wonderful book
to own anyway because it has given me a lot of great ideas to do with
clay instead of metal, etc. Dotty in CA
...I've been pretty pleased with this book... has
good information on tools, findings, a variety of techniques, though mostly
oriented at necklaces rather than, say, pins. The author is
British, though, so for American readers there will
sometimes be terminology differences to overcome.
One
of my web site clients is a bead store which carries findings, books
and supplies as well as beads. Since they are retail, they won't charge you extra
for small orders; they'll also be happy to give you suggestions for stringing
and findings and answer any questions you have.
While they don't have
online ordering yet (I'm building the shopping cart right now), they'll be adding
it soon; in the interim, they do have a toll-free phone number for orders. http://www.br-beads.com
--Triche
...many bead stores are willing to help this way
too, I believe
ONLINE
Bob’s various lessons on stringing
http://www.geocities.com/SoHo/9555/
http://www.geocities.com/Vienna/9664/hobby.html
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa062899.htm
knotting
with a needle embedded in a wood block as helper
http://martinseclectic.net/Tutorials/PearlKnotting.htm
lots of info... and, so that's how
that knotting tool is used. Jacqueline
http://www.pmegio.com/instructions/index.html
Rings & Things...this jewelry retailer's
website has lots of information and instructions on beading and
cording. (they sell products also, but they also dedicate alot of their site space
to project how to's.)
....they really delve into the bare basics of
stringing and cording, using detailed instructions and diagrams.Adrienne
jewelrymaking.about.com
...look all over http://jewelerymaking.about.com ...Tammy
Powley put up instructions, technique links, and a gallery... Ginny B.
....lots
of tips on various kinds of stringing, knotting and beading
CORDING for beading...& stringing
....for thicker cords, see
Pendants-Cording....
The
cordings discussed below are the types which are usually completely covered
with beads ...
(...for the usually-heavier-weight cords, which are often
visible for part of their length, see Pendants-Cording
since there's some overlap)
The
cording used for a particular project depends on at least these factors:
...size
of beads
...weight of the beads... and type of beads (e.g., glass beads may
be harder on plastic coatings or natural fibers)
...size of holes in beads
...drapability
(vs. stiffness)
...whether tying is desired (between some or all beads)
...stretchiness
...cost
....or appearance
I have noticed that necklaces with very small beads between large beads seem to drape better (even as small as seed beads)
Rings-Things page
on different kinds of beading cord
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/014.htm
Plastic
Stretchy (transparent)
....solid
and tube...
There are many opinions about Stretch Magic
or any stretchy cording
....I like it for bracelets, but
not for necklaces
.........for
...
..... I have used every
brand on the market, from Stretch Magic to
floss, and evetually, they all break (usually, when the end-user catches
it on a door handle or some pokey object and "walks away" not realizing he/she
is tethered).
........sharp holed beads
and stones are not a good idea .....some metal beads
have sharp edges too that will cut the stretchy
........E-beads
(E size) and seed beads are fine. Klew
....sharp
beads can shorten the life of the bracelet considerably
...
I
bought some clear stretch cording on a card
.....it was clear & similar to Stretch Magic but thicker
...
but it has "creases" in it from being wrapped
around the card. I may only be able to use this for bracelets, unless there
is a way to remove the folds. Denise
...any bead shop will have it, and Michael's
carries it but not in all of the thicknesses.
I
us a lot of Nymo and Kevlar threads (often doubled
depending on the thickness) and have had good luck with them. Emily
....
...
...if
you tie stretch cord with a regular square or quilter's knot, it will pull out
immediately, so instead, i hold both ends together so they are next to one another
instead of "facing" each other. then wrap both around my index finger once to
make a loop. i slip the ends thru the loop once and then pull tight by stretching.
then i separate the threads below the knot and pull them gently but firmly in
opposite directions to seat the knot. then i tie another knot, just the same way
over the top of the first knot. you can choose to slip the ends once or twice
this time. tighten the same way. sunni
...
........(for
knot or crimp?)...I used a clay bead at the joining point ... the two ends
go in the bead and you put the glue in there. Put two small beads on the sides
of the bigger clay bead ... and it looks like a design rather than
a necessity LOL..... plus it makes the bond stronger…Erum
knot
and crimp bead (for stretchy cording)
......first,
dab a tiny amount of superglue on the knot.. let dry for
a minute or so
.... slide a tiny crimp bead over the knot and crimp.
Holds beautifully. Barbara
...I
use crimp beads (alone) on the stretch magic (and flexible beading
wire, fishing line)
....I highly recommend getting crimp pliers if you
are doing more than a few ...the pliers come in 2 sizes, one for micro crimps,
one for "normal" size. MarieCT
....I think a crimped stretch magic looks more
professional. ...the crimp ends up looking like a tiny bead
...
I try to put crimp beads in a place that won't be too obvious, because,
well, let's face it, crimp beads aren't the most beautiful thing in the world!
....there is another type of crimp bead which looks like a very small
hollow bead. I've had these beads cut tigertail - so I'm sure there is
a risk with stretch magic.
...
....... If you are having
trouble getting (the cord?) through a second time try this: after stringing all
your selected beads on it, hold the end and stretch it over your fingernail to
stretch the stirng thus making it smaller in diameter...then it is easy to slip
the other end through and snug it up before crimping...BE CAREFUL not to
crimp too tightly or you will cut right through!
(see more on crimp beads
below in Plastic-Covered Wire > Crimps & Knots))
(only a little stretchy)
SoftGlass
cording (clear and various colors) -- 2 types (tube and flat)
....looks
like frosted glass with the feel of silk ....because
of the frosted surface, it doesn't have that plastic-y look
...... tube form (hollow) ....... in two sizes:
5 mm x 2.5mm ....and 2.5 mm x 1.5mm
...... flat lacing
form...... .25" wide x .125" thick
...colors:
clear and 8 colors
...cheap! ....$5.95 for 100 feet
...it
is very strong and there's
no shredding (leather cording,ribbon and satin/silk cording all shred)....great
to work with
http://www.puffinalia.com/softglas.html
...and http://www.jewelrycord.com/SoftGlass_Tubular_and_Flat_Lacing.htm
(tube
or flat??) perfect drape in the smaller diameter, a little less so in the
larger ...but the larger is stiff enough to make it perfect for bracelets and
if you keep the pendants on the heavy side or the cord on the short side (as for
a choker)
...I experimented with the solid black flat ribbon version
while at ShrineMont; it baked fine, and still has a slight stretchy
feel to it
.. the clay I baked onto it stuck pretty well,
but I would still recommend gluing it in place or using liquid clay for
added strength. katbyte
TUBE
SoftGlass:
....for the tube type
SoftGlass, special decorative metal connectors
(plugs) are needed also (which fit into the hollow ends of the cording
to hold them together)
....and the connectors hold tight, tight ....I really
like this stuff!
....instead of their
connectors, I bet you could extrude clay into snakes...then cut
a lengthto use as a connector. Tonja
...you
can even use the connectors as elements of a piece of jewelry instead of a clasp
to be hidden. Marla
....I
colored the connectors on one with a gold Krylon paint pen. Eliz.
... it has just the right amount of stretch to slip it over your hand without
undoing the connector for a bracelet
.... I can see making
a double-holed tile bracelet with it, and imagine that the connectors
would just look like another bead ... no knotting, gluing and hiding the
knot. Susan
FILLINGS:
...... Pinata inks (alcohol based) can be injected into
the cord....this lets you color the cord to any color you wish
......colored
wire works wonderfully .....as well as embroidery floss
......ultrafine
glitter (I also used silver connectors, bunka tassels, and black o-rings for
accents on one)
.......had a lot of fun with
the "fillable" aspect of the Soft Glass, even using Bead-azzles in one
piece. Eliz.
CUT into "BEADS"
...It
can also be cut into tube beads, and used as
spacer beads to add just a splash of color here and there in your necklace,
bracelet, or earrings. Karen
Unfortunately,
Soft Glass continually changes their color formulas,
so if you find a color you really like, you'd better order quite a bit of it.
The next time you order, it's likely that the color is at least slightly different
from the previous one - and sometimes quite noticeably different. Elizabeth
another
tubular cording much like SoftGlass, is pony bead lacing
material (called "Tooobs Pony Bead Lacing" by Pepperell Braiding Co)....
Plastic-Covered Wire, or wires...(non-stretchy)
Soft Flex (& SoftTouch)
SoftFlex (by
Beadalon)
... comes in 3 diameters: .014 (small...also called SoftTouch)
... .019 (medium) .... .024 (large... larger, heavy
beads only)
.......numbers are not like wire gauge numbers (20ga, 22ga) ..the
more abrasive a bead is the higher the number when using Softflex
...
made from very thin, marine quality, stainless steel wires woven
togehter, and then nylon coated
...flexible and knottable ..... used
primarily for cording
...12 colors ...since it comes in a number of colors,
it won't show through...
http://www.softflextm.com/products.htm
and http://www.softflextm.com/soft_flex_wire.htm
SoftFlex .014 is SoftTouch
...used for seedbeads, and other very light items
...they
are claiming extremely strong... same performance as SoftFlex with 50% more
supple drape
...available only in Clear
...SoftTouch was designed
to replace thread in woven projects --it was not designed for stringing.
...for small (3-4mm) or lightweight beads, I think the
.014 drapes as nicely as silk thread and can be knotted or crimped.
...I do use SoftTouch for stringing, but only for multi-strand (at
least 4) seedbead constructs where anything bigger isn't going to fit or
I need that much drape... and if possible, I double the SoftTouch in each
strand and none have broken yet (the stuff is 10lb test but you need to watch
out that no weak points
are created through abrasion or sharp turns or something real heavy that doesn't
have other support )
http://www.softflextm.com/soft_touch_wire.htm
Kate pre-stretches her SoftFlex (or her silk cord) so it won't stretch out later... she holds it under one foot and pulls upward to stretch
I have one Softflex bracelet I used to wear constantly, including in the shower... it broke eventually because the plastic coating over the cable had become abraided, allowing water to get to the wire cable inside and cause it to rust and break)
"change in terminology for "Silver"... Soft Flex long ago was coated in clear nylon, then the color being called Clear or Clear Satin. ...now we have been processing the color "Silver" into the clear nylon, resulting in a very nice matte "Silver" finish, a more refined color.
other plastic-covered wire cords
...Accu-Flex...for abrasive beads and gives drape to lightweight beads
........ also sold in thicker weights to accommodate larger, heavier bead
strands. (begin and end strands by using crimp beads or crimp clasps).
...
Acculon for beads with sharpened holes. No beading needle required.
Tigertail
is a less expensive, very strong, and somewhat stiff,
plastic-covered-wire cording ... comes in several thicknesses?
.... I've
used it when I wanted to throw something together fast...no needles or knots!....
it can get kinks... Emily
To prevent tigertail
(or other stiff cords) from chewing through
polymer beads, you can reinforce the beads so the sawing action is against
metal instead.
....to do this on really big beads, I sometimes use
grommets (those little metal bits sold to make belts and things
which come in metallic and painted color finishes, I like the plain brass and
copper ones best.)... I just drill holes the right size and push them into the
holes of the baked beads (using a bit of Zap-a-Gap to make sure they stay there)
and they give a nice finished look to the bead. ...they can be ordered in all
sizes including really tiny, so in theory you could use them even on small beads.
Another solution is to make beads over metal tubes (hobby shop, cut in short pieces)
or to use embedded end caps like Tory Hughes sometimes does with faux coral or
amber beads.
.....another thing I do is run 4 strands of tigertail
through small seed beads that will hide inside the pendant's
hole.... the strands of tigertail are strung with coordinating beads and plaited
(or not, for a looser look). Add a clasp and voila!
Crimps and Knots
There are several types of crimp beads.
...tiny
round bead (this doesn't seem to be favored any longer since
it isn't as strong)...used with flat pliers or crimping pliers
...tiny tube
which is generally used with "double crimping pliers" (or
if flattening with flat pliers, someone suggested also squeezing
the tube with the the tips of your round nose pliers for good measure for more
strength)
(...can also use a small metal coil
as a crimp)
various types of crimps http://www.jewelrysupply.com/EJS/crimpbeads.htm
...crimping
is often done on beading wire (like Accuflex, Tigertail, Softflex, etc.),
and fishing line, but could use on other cording??
...crimp beads are
usually used for terminating the end of a beading wire so that a
clasp can be attached
...... can also be used to hold individual beads in place
on cording
flat
nose pliers can be used to squash crimps (but won't be as secure or look as
nice as using crimping pliers)
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/crimp-bead-tech.pdf
crimpling
pliers leave a crimp tube looking like a tiny smooth and rounded bead
......though
there are also "crimp covers" to go over and hide crimp beads
tube-type crimp beads, and double crimping pliers:
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa062803.htm
I
use a sterling silver crimp bead (crimp tube?, 2x2) with a "double"
crimping pliers to close the crimp.. Terri
...animation of two-step
crimping (...crimp is pressed in larger, bottom section of crimping pliers
to form a vertical bean shape... then removed and put into smaller top
section of pliers after turning the bean sideways to crimp again)
http://www.bartky.net/CRIMPER/anicrimp.htm
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/softflex.aspx
...buy
double crimping tool at bead stores (Michaels?), jewelry catalogs, and on-line
at the SoftFlex website
http://www.jewelry-tools.com/WJU/techniques/softflex.htm
(see more on crimp beads above in Plastic-Stretchy)
on knots
in bead tips (clamshell, etc.), Kate Richbourg recommends tying 2 knots (surgeon's
knot = rt over left, left over right)
...saturating knot with Sally Hansen's
Hard As Nails glue rather than superglue (which
can travel down the cord into the clasp)...
then waiting 24 hrs. before closing
Other
Cording Types
(& unknown)
elastic "beading" cord ....(sewing stores)
....
.....I can
glue OR crimp this cord and it works just fine. Karen H
.....i
now use the black or white cloth-covered notions stretch cord in
the sewing department..... you can get it in a couple different thicknesses
depending on the size and/or weight of the beads you use.
....
..monofilament
(plastic) fishing line is alright for something that doesn't really use
silver/metal beads or glass that may somehow have the slightest sharp
edge inside the bead hole eventually cut the monofilament...... I have
used monofilament for lightweight lariats that are mostly made up of seed beads
but would be cautious of using it in something that needs to withstand more weight.
...will become brittle and break after a few years-especially where it is stressed
at knots.
Stringth ...a synthetic
twisted cording and strong as all get out. Once you tie a knot,
it stays tied and it comes in a size perfect to fit through double bead cups.
I use it for everything; necklaces, bracelets and anklets (RioGrand carries it)
....I
tried a new (to me, at least) cord called "Stringth"
that I saw in the Rio Grande catalog (also at Land of Odds)
... good looking,
easy to work with, super strong but drapes well, knots (and
unknots) well, and comes in gorgeous colors!
...Give it a try, it
is very elegant! .. just wanted to share how thrilled I am with this cord,
I think it is the nicest by far....goodbye Nymo, Silk, linen and all the rest!
Jan Clausen
silk
is used when beading "soft" gem materials such as pearls. It is also chosen
for decorative use, as in weaving multi-colored strands.
....I started out
doing traditional pearl knotting on silk and would rather never do it again!
People do not realize how fragile the silk is & how
often silk-strung beads should, ideally, be restrung!!
....(if you must knot,
there are other kinds of stuff--like waxed cotton or linen thread--that
are great for things like big chunky amber, for instance.)
there
are various kinds of cords sold for variations of macrame, in various
sizes
http://shop.vendio.com/MacrameBoutique/store.html
(Chinese knotting cord)
....I used cord that I ordered from
Whiteswan ... think it's conso
http://miva.comsvr.com/cgi-bin/mivavm?/merchant.mvc+Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=TLS&Category_Code=T2
(Nylon Hand Sewing Thread ....used to sew buttons onto thick cushions
by upholsterers..... smooth, shiny, holds the knots well but also
is fairly easy to untie ...stiff, yet fine enough to fit through most 11/0 seed
beads...ends can be melted... at least 20 shades (2 oz spools, approx.130
yds)
(...like
Buna or Viton or decoy cord, braided nylon, Bunka, wrapped polyester,
soutache, elastic cords, waxed linen, silk, rattail, leather
or leatherlike cords, hemp, etc.)
Artistic Wire ... ....finishing wires in Wire
...loops, eye pins, head pins, clasps, spirals,
coils, etc.
...top
loops, clay tubes & foldovers, bails, etc.
basic definitions
Some
of the more common ways to connect elements of jewelry together are findings such
as jump rings, head pins and eye pins (and some unusual ones such
as fishing swivels).
U shapes and other shapes can also be inserted
or embedded into clay to act as connectors.
"Clasps" can
use some of these same elements, but those generally refer to the connectors (hooks,
loops, etc.) at the of the ends of necklaces and bracelets, I think.
A
jump ring is a circle of wire with a break in it
....opening
a jump ring... the sides of the circle can be pulled to opposite sides (never
pull them straight "apart"), so that it
can connect to something else (another loop like a jump ring or an eye
pin, or a cord, etc.), then be closed.
http://www.beading-frenzy.com/beading_techniques_wire_work.htm
(look down under "Opening and Closing")
...using 2 jump rings
or loops of some kind in a row allows the connection to be looser
and to "dangle" more.
...jump rings come in many diameters
and thicknesses, as well as colors, although they are usually made
of metal
......can buy them in packages at craft stores,
or individulaly at bead stores
....... or harvest them from old
jewelry or jewelry chains
You can also make your own jump
rings from a coil of your chosen wire:
…often machine-cut jump rings don't
have a nice "cut" so they never do close entirely... so cut them
with a jeweler's blade saw
....(lesson): wind the wire
around a dowel, and it should be wound so tight that there are no spaces between
the rings. Then you bring the wire down to the end of the dowel (or remove it
and hold it in your fingers), brace it against a wood cutting surface, hold the
dowel and wire firmly while using a jeweler's saw (with a bit of beeswax on it?)
at a 45 degree angle. As you cut the jumprings will either fall off the cutting
blade or onto it . . .
....lesson on coiling and cutting your own jump
rings (coiling instructions are more precise than
most people might need though)
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092898.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa012701.htm
(fancier)
A
head pin looks like a dressmaker's silk pin, or a nail, with a flat
head at the end of a straight shank (though more flexible)
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/od/finishingtechniques/ss/080905_6.htm
http://www.firemountaingems.com/findings.asp
(look down under Head pins)
...can
also make "head pins" in other ways
......"paddle"
pin...hammer
one end of plain wire so there's a "stop"
on one end, then file down any roughness
.......bent over ... make tiny
loop at one end, then close tightly, below tip
.......... or this way:http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=285
......eye
pins can function as decorative head pins ("stops") rather than
attachers...loop, spiral, square or other shape, twist/coil, etc.
An
eye pin is like a jump ring at one end of a straight wire
...only
one end of an eye pin is a loop; the other end is straight (that
straight shank can be any length)
Eyepins can be bought at the craft or beading
store, or you can make your own from a length of wire.
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/od/finishingtechniques/ss/080905_7.htm
(this one isn't properly "closed" for some
reason)
http://www.firemountaingems.com/findings.asp
(look down under Eye pins)
http://www.firemountaingems.com/shopping.asp?skw=KWFNEYEPINGC
loops
A
"loop" can be formed at the end of the straight section
of a head pin or eye pin, or at the end of a plain wire
...
this allows the pin or wire to act as a connector (can be joined to something
with a hole, or to another loop)
.........(loops can also be made in the middle
of a wire length, though it's not as common)
...the loop will resemble a jump
ring, but it will be just one part of a length of wire
plain
loop (making)
http://www.beading-frenzy.com/beading_techniques_wire_work.htm
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/earringconstruction.aspx
(look down page)
this loop is formed on a short eyepin (or piece of
wire with a loop already formed at one end), after slipping a bead or two
onto the shank... this allows the beaded wire to connect to something else at
both ends
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=BDNGNSTRCTNSBSC&sact=search
Samara's
lessons on making loops at the end of head pins, or
in the non-looped ends of eyepins for connecting to things or to
other eye/pins
http://www.data-pearl.co.uk/samara/project/basicguide.html
(bottom of the page) (gone)
A
loop can also be created as a "wrapped" loop so that it
will have several rings around its "neck" when finished:
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/wire-wrap-loop-tech.pdf
*about.com's
lesson on making a (single or) double-ended wrapped loop
which can have a bead in-between, for a "chain" of beads, or to hold
dangles
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092198.htm
http://www.beading-frenzy.com/beading_techniques_wire_work.htm
(shows it being made at the end of several jump rings)
several lessons
on making wrapped wire loops
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/techniques.aspx
briolette
loop (for side-to-side holes and 2 ends of wire --loop last)
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/flat-briolette-wrap-tech.pdf
Micki’s
lesson on using two connected wires to wrap and create a somewhat
fancy top loop for a flat oval stone (or whatever)
http://www.geocities.com/mick62001/simplecabwrap.html
Heather
R's lesson on making your own wrapped "eyepin"
from a length of wire to insert into danglies (Tropical Goldfish Necklace)
though she uses a thick wire….
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_tropfishjewelry.htm
http://home.earthlink.net/~simplymad/html/earrings1.html
(gone?)
more
I go to http://www.about.com and read all their jewelry making tips. Lots of information there. And many (lessons) on using wire. You can subscribe to the newsletter and it will tell you when new stuff is up. Kim2
The necks of eyepins can
be cut to a shorter length with wire cutters (or nail clippers) and then
inserted into the top of a raw clay earring, dangle or pendant
to make something which other pieces can connect to. It's best to use a glue (a
superglue or liquid clay, or possibly a white glue meant for metal like Gem Tac)
in the hole as well, or use a mechanical type hold to keep the wire from slipping
out.
....one type of mechanical hold would be is to zig-zag
the end of the straight part which will be embedded in the clay.
The clay is then kind of pressed back around the wire, especially at the top so
that nothing is visible from the outside. Glue can be used or not.
...you
can embed the loop in the clay. I make a sort of S shape of wire
- large at the bottom and small at the top (the top loop sticks out of the clay).
I then press a small pancake of clay onto my worksurface and press the large loop
into that. Then I press on the clay that is going to be the pendant, making a
sandwich and allowing the small loop to emerge at the top.. . . the big loop of
wire curves inside most of the length of the pendant. A small loop embedded could
pull out so I go for a big loop that is only a little smaller than the overall
pendant size. Sue……..
liquid
clay works great if you're inserting the metal finding into
a raw clay item (lesson):
..put some liquid clay on the metal...
(make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid
clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack"
it in ...Bake... holds just great.
...two or more cords (with a few beads threaded
onto them) are threaded through a separator bar ...more beads may be added to
each cord, then another bar threaded on, etc.
... their purpose is to hold
together separate rows of beaded cording wherever they are placed
... used for bracelets, earrings (especially "chandelier"
type), necklaces, or whatever
http://www.beadalon.com/spacerbars.html
http://www.eebeads.com/_miscFind.htm
http://www.landofodds.com/Search.bok?category=END+BARS
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa030899.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092802.htm
(for bracelet)
...some
people also use telephone wire because its coating will actually bond with
the clay. I remember someone saying that they "created" telephone
wire by coating regular wire with two coats of (tinted, in their case, because
it would show) Liquid Sculpey --dried between coats. Doing that on the bottom
of the wire before inserting it would probably give a strong bond without bending
the wire. Diane B.
....for
most info and links on those, see above in Cords > Plastic-covered
Wire > Crimps & Knots)
(see more on using loops and U's on pendants, in Pendants-Cording > Top Loops & U's )
fishing swivels & snap swivels
http://www.fishinghook.co.kr/sw/sw-1.htm
(usually brass; all types swivel)
SOME TYPES
--barrel swivel, top
row --brass bead between two end loops; there are several wraps of wire before
each loop
--snap swivel, second --barrel swivel, with a safety-pin
type (asymmetric) connector attached to one end (this "snap"
part consists of a loop, covered area to hold the end when closed, and a larger
connector)
--interlock snap swivel -- barrel swivel, with a safety-pin
type (rounded) connector attached to one end
--3-way swivel --3
barrel swivels attached rigidly to a ring (has potential for earrings or other
dangles?)
--crane swivel --same as barrel swivel, but no wraps
of wire
I really like using fishing snap swivels in jewelry. They're strong, durable, water-proof, inexpensive and readily available. You can find them in K-Marts, Wal-Marts, sporting goods and, of course, fishing supply stores. They come in brass, nickel and black. They come in various sizes; the #1's are the biggest and sturdiest.
They
can act as decorative connectors between round, tube or any kinds of beads
or wire shapes or other bits (instead of jumprings, etc.), or be strung together
-- attach danglies to something else (...when used on a pendant, it
can lay flat easily)
http://www.desiredcreations.com/images/galleryThreePics/AltoidHeartPurseCombo.jpg
Hey, Jules, that would be a great idea! I attached a couple of fishing snap
swivels to the back of the box….I linked the buna cord to the swivels
with a couple of jewelry springs. …I slipped the end of the buna cord into
the spring and pinched the last loop down onto the buna so it couldn't
pull out. . . . For the purse, you should also use glue or epoxy, just to make
sure it wouldn't pull out. . . . The other end of the spring (with the upright
loop) gets hooked into the loop on the swivel. You'll need an set of needle
nose or chain nose pliers to manipulate the metal.
Here's another url of other
types of swivels: http://www.tackletactics.co.nz/Clipsandswivels.html
I just thought you don't really need to buna. After attaching the snap swivels
to the sides of the heart, you could attach something like gold metal chain
to the swivels.
For a purse, you might want to attach them to the sides
of the heart instead of the back, to make the whole thing hang better (which
I eventually did)... I attached the snap halves (lower potion in the pic) to the
back of my mini Altoid box with a little clay.
. . . ~I
glued the two heart shaped Altoid tins back to back using 5 minute epoxy. I recommend
sandwiching the two tins between two large boards clamped together. I attached two size #1 snap swivels to the sides with
a couple of heart shaped wads of clay. . .
I made the strap you see
in the photo, but if you can get your hands on a little purse that has one of
those long straps with spring loaded connectors that hook into D-rings, you may
save yourself a little time and effort. Those connectors will easily attach to
the swivels. Desiree
One of the scouting sites suggests making make a bracelet
out of fishing swivels …they put (seed) beads on 10-14
swivels, connecting them all together ….they suggest having needle nose pliers
available since sometimes they’re hard to open.
…tiny polymer round beads or tube beads could be substituted
…or the swivels could be used to hang danglies.
swivels used as dangles (from a pendant)
http://hometown.aol.com/sputnikdeb/myhomepage/document.nvd/AlligatorCDPin.html
(gone?)
fishing swivels can also be used as swiveling "bails" to create reversible (flip-overable) pendants ... just embed the loop at one of the swivel into the pendant.... patsy turned me on to this idea. Laurel
snap
fishing swivels used for bracelet on Carol Duvall show...seed beads plus
a larger bead were placed on each locking part of the "safety pin" (after
it was straighted some); midway in the beads, another snap swivel was added, or
at end end a connector finding of some sort was added; she also hung a few charms
off the swivels with plain swivels
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399737,00.html
(Oct 11, 02)
CORD
ENDS & CLASPS
(see Wire
for more on wire clasps)
to make a piece look more delicate small fancy metal clasps
are good..... larger pieces can hold their own with a polymer clay
type clasp. Dotty
types of
clasps at Rings ‘N Things site:
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/032.htm
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/033.htm
*Desiree’s findings and clasps
http://www.pbase.com/gallery/ddmcc2/necklace_chat
Desiree’s lessons showing different techniques
for attatching pendants and beads to wire, string, cord silk etc
http://desiredcreations.com/Misc_PCgallery2.htm
http://www.desiredcreations.com/Misc_PCgallery2.htm
~Kellie’s lesson on making a polymer ball and loop closure
with rubber cording
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/bunacord.html
here are a few more sites that kinda show how
to do clasps (at the ends of the projects).
sunni
…aunt molly's tutorial - http://home.flash.net/~mjtafoya/projects/pearl/pearl.htm
…Etcetera's Amethyst
Heart Choker: http://www.eebeads.com/Webzine/july/7_12_97.htm
…Bead Wranglers Irish
Tendril necklace: http://beadwrangler.com/project-irish.htm
lessons on various
kinds of chinese knots…. Crafty Owl
http://www.chineseknotting.org
barrel clasps --fat, screw-together metal pieces
with jump ring one end of each-- mine just fall off sometimes (even though glued
in?)...though may be a problem mostly for heavier
necklaces) Desiree
….I have problems with barrel clasps too, at times.
Maybe some have faulty grooves, or whatever you call them. I especially dislike
the small ones, but since there are so many wonderful kinds of clasps, I use other kinds,
and leave the barrel clasps to other people. As far as I'm concerned, they can
*have* them! Randi
….Dianne C's semi-lesson on covering a barrel
clasp with coordinating clay
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/technique.html
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=HWTSCRDTPGLNSTY&sact=search
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/foldover-tech.pdf
... the last
loop of the coil can be pulled out at 90 degrees from the coil to use like
a jump ring
...a single or doubled length of cord end can be inserted
into the open end of the coil (with glue or not)...then last coil at other
end can be crimped down around the cording to hold it
http://www.beadworksboston.com/beadopedia/tips-techs/pdfs/coil-crimp.pdf
...or
use one technique at each end of coil?
...can be made or purchased, in various
sizes http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/014.htm
http://www.landofodds.com/Search.bok?category=COIL+END+CLASPS
...I made bar & circle clasp (each part is linked to the buna cord
with the help of a spring finding).
(lesson)
I pushed the ends of the buna cord into the springs, then pinched
the last loop of the spring so it grabs the buna cord. The last coil on
the other end of the spring comes already turned up. Using the jewelers
flat nose pliers (a must tool), I twisted open that loop and threaded it
through the clasp's loop, then closed the loop. That's it. Basically, you'll
need: - flat nose jewelery pliers - necklace clasp (usually there
are two parts to a clasp) - 2 findings (e.g. springs) that finish the end
of the buna cord and serves as a bridge between the cord and the clasp
- sometimes jump rings, these can also be used as a bridge between the spring
and the clasp. A jump ring permits a little more twisting flexibility and also
lengthens the necklace a tiny bit. Desiree
(see much more on Buna in
Pendants
& Cording >
Cording > Rubbery Cords)
http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=277
http://www.geocities.com/beadybabedesigns/tutorials/project3.html
magnetic clasps:
Those I have tried...and i love them. I think I ordered them from Rio Grande.
They've got a good strong magnet...so don't forget customers/wearers with pacemakers should get a more traditional fastening. Laura A/Sparkle
A while back the question arose of how we could take
2 pieces of clay and thread them together like
a nut and bolt does. Well, with a bit of help
from my DH , I tried his Tap & Die set (used for re-threading stripped
screws and such) It worked !!!! Took a steady hand and maybe I should have lubricated
the clay somehow,but did I say *it worked*!! Tonja
...cut end of cording on a long diagonal with a sharp blade... form oval
loop the size you want
...glue diagonally-trimmed end to cording with superglue
...large
loop for clay bead or toggle ... or smaller loop for attaching cording
to eyepin in bead, a jump ring, etc.
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/technique.html
back-wrapping a self-loop
...there's
a nice looking finish which is quite strong for securing and
also making a decorative finish around any thick cord (rubbery cording
like Buna, round leather cord, etc.)... can also give an ethnic feel
....the
end of the cord will be made into a small loop by turning it back on itself
so that it can hold a jump ring or other finding
...... or made
into a large loop if it will have a bead passed through it as a toggle
closure
....this can be done with fine wire around any kind
of cording... or with embroidery floss around a satin cord,
etc.
(for lessons on doing this, see Pendants-Cording
> Finishing, Tying)
another way is to use seed beads on tigertail for your loop
then you can run the tigertail back through a few beads and fasten it with
a crimp bead (for more info in crimp beads, see Stretch Magic above).
My necklaces tend tend to have a very ethnic feel
to them,so I string them on leather cord . . . if they are long enough
to go over the wearers head, I close the ends by gluing them together with
about an inch overlap and then wrap them with embroidery floss to match
the colors of the piece. I got the idea from traditional Native American jewelry.
attaching
…with clay and glue or liquid clay...or leather
One good way is to glue the metal pinback to the back of the pin with a superglue (like Krazy Glue or Zap-a-Gap) to hold it temporarily, AND then press a rectangle of clay over the bar of the pin back which extends onto the surrounding clay; this embeds the bar --you can add superglue or liquid clay on this piece too).
For
the most secure hold on a pin back, I first use (superglue) Slo-Zap to
hold the pin-back in place.
...then I make a small, thin strip
of clay the same color as the back of the pin ...I coat one side
with liquid clay.
...I then place the strip over the metal base
of the pin back so that it laps over both top and bottom onto the back piece
...Once
baked, this really holds!! Dotty in CA
......
polymerclayexpress’ lesson on using this technique
http://polymerclayexpress.com/jan2001.html
...I temporarily glue the pinback on with
Zap-a-Gap, which is a cyanoacrylate (superglue type glue.) I then cover
the part of the pinback that touches the clay with a puddle of TLS &
rebake it. That makes a *very* secure bond, so be sure you get the position right
before you bake it. This is difficult to remove. Barb
(lesson from Linda Goff....using new clay on both
sides of the bar)
1. Bake your pin
2. Put a very thin layer of liquid
clay on the back of the pin where the pin back will go
3. Cut a thin sheet
of clay (# 5-6 on pasta machine) three times wider and slightly
longer than the pin back and place it where the liquid clay is on the back
of the pin. Press it on firmly.
4. Press the pin back
firmly into the middle of that clay
5. Cut a sheet of clay (# 3
on pasta machine) three times wider than the pin back and short enough to
fit on the top of the pin back without interfering with the hinge mechanisms.
.......Press firmly onto top of pin back and over lower layer of clay.
Straighten up edges but don't trim very much.
6. Make sure the pin
mechanism works ok.... then bake either right side up or back side up
Kellie’s lesson on making this kind of covered
pinback
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/pinback.html
Christel's mini lesson on making a textured
cover for a pinback (for large oblong pin)
http://home.online.no/~raje/Polymer/projects/womanpin/index.htm
(last 2 photos, steps 10-11)
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/rainbow.html
...once
you put your pieces together, there is no repositioning
(especially if you used the instant hold type
superglue).
...if you make a
boo boo, pull the pieces apart right away, clean or scrape the spot
where the instant glue is, and start over. Geo
Kellie's lesson on covering the entire
back of the pin with clay (which yields a "hidden,"
very finished looking back)
...she cuts 2 holes for the extruding
parts of the pinback in a backing piece the same size as the partially baked
(?) pin with small Kemper cutter or drinking straw
...then creates a sandwich
with the pin and the new backing, using a bit of liquid clay
...textures
the backing clay once it's sandwiched
You could do it all in
one baking, I just usually don't. why? ....well, I make the pin first, the
pretty part... and I partially bake it. this way, when I attach the pin backs,
I don't mess up the pretty part of it, and then bake for the full length of time....
it can be done either way, it is up to you! Kellie
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/cyclopedia/pinback.html
...I bought a bag of leather scraps ... thin suede pieces,
soft glove leather, etc.
.......after I bake my pin, I glue on
the pinback
...then I cut a piece of the leather to match the entire
back of the pin exactly ... punch holes in it so the pin and posts
fit through... and glue the leather to the back. ...... It makes
a nice neat back. Marty aka Marlene
attaching …with
clay only:
After
a few trials with different methods, my favorite is to bake the item to
be made into a pin, then attach the pinback with a piece of clay and
rebake. Desiree
...
...in
all cases, hold your pieces down for awhile, moving your fingers
to press on all surfaces to get a uniformly glued piece.
misc.
... you can place it on a small cloud of polester
stuffing or batting to bake it or use other support methods discussed in Baking
>Support
... or bake the clay pin first, and add the
clasp afterwards (and rebake if you've used clay or liquid clay)
...if the
pin is very large and flat, but still dimensional on its face, you may have to
figure out some way of additionally supporting it while baking. DB
http://www.talliesplace.com/html/tools.html
.......you
could instead create the background clay without the transfer, add the
pinback and bake (then add the decal and Future sealer ...this way you don't have
to bake again. ...or place the pin on polyester stuffing in a disposable aluminum
pan to bake. Patty B.
.....or bake pin and pinback (right side up) on a piece
of cardboard with a small rectangle cut out of it (see Jewelry
> Pinbacks)
...I
saw a tip at Quilt Junction to run a piece of clay through the pasta machine
with a piece of lace or other texture sheet, and use that as a back when
you assemble pins.
I
glued on a pin back right in the middle
of the pin and then covered the shaft with a thin tab of polymer clay. It
looks neat and tidy, however when you wear the pin it has a tendency to "flop
over", like it's not weighted properly Do you put your pin backs
nearer to the top of the PC pins? Sue
...I try to put it on the top quarter
of the pin. I also try to use the biggest pin back
that will fit and not show on the front of the pin too. I've only had the floppy
thing happen when I've made the top part of the pin too narrow where I can't attach
a pin back. Susan
…some of the ones that hang the best have some dangles
from the bottom to act as a counter balance.... susie
…I've found that
the cheap pinbacks are too deep--about 1/4"---
and make the piece stick out too far--as well as flop over. The really good
pinback is much shallower and the perfect solution for the "flops"…
Jeanie
…plus on the good ones, the entire back can be adhered to the
pin, while the "cheap" ones have those bent-up sides on them. . . I know Rings N Things sells the more
expensive ones and I think Rio Grande does too. Susan
The
problem with having a pin "tug" at the lighter
types of fabric can be helped a lot by placing a small piece of felt
(in a color that won't show through the fabric) and pinning the pin through
both fabrics.... I often give customers a piece when they buy one of my pins
DottyinCA
....You need to think of the drag
of weight on the fabric to which the item will be pinned. (Silky blouse or summerweight
dress, not just jackets.) The advantage of the horizontal pin back for most applications
is that it spreads the weight of the pin over two areas of the fabric. In the
vertical arrangement, all the weight of the pin pulls on the top hole. Having
the fastener at the bottom end is the better of the two vertical
choices.
....Has anyone tried solving this by making a clay cover for a horizontal
pinback (like you would for a barette) and then gluing the vertical clay piece
over it or dangling the main piece (pendant style) from a ring or loop set into
the clay that covers the horizontal pinback? Guess you would have to plan that
as part of the design. Karen in WNC
maybe
2 tie tack-type pins (one at each end of the pin)
could be used instead of a regular pin back .
...my transfer
is done on a fairly thin sheet of clay ...I bake it first
..
then I set it into a piece of raw clay and do the adornmentt...then
bake again. DottyinCA
more
on glues for backs
I glue metal to back
clay (barrettes) with one of the polyurethane glues. Right now I'm using
Elmer's ProBond polyurethane Ultimate Glue. ...Gorilla glue is another
brand with the same properties.
...These glues expand
a bit when they cure, and they take 24 hours to fully cure. Read the directions
as it says there is a bit of moisture required.
... I apply the glue to the
baked clay, and mist the finding with water before applying it. Be consistent
but sparing with the glue as it will foam up slightly. ...I check them after an
hour and if there is more glue present at the edges of the finding than I want,
I will wipe it away with a cotton swab. Patti K.
I've
tried the white vinyl glues made for attaching jewels to fabric
(Jewel-It, Gem Tac, etc.),. . .
and found they work very well. As you can machine wash and dry these glues,
temperature is not a problem.
...Some are fairly thin bodied,
so use a second coat on porous materials.
...They
easily bond to metal, a big plus for me. ...Katherine Dewey
I
used E-6000 for some time, but found that too often a pin back or
earring back came off, especially in extreme heat. . . . (for more on the failure of E-6000 –Goop and also superglues in hot weather, or other
hot
situations, see Glues)
Never
glue E-6000 or Goop to a hot or warm piece ...
the fumes it creates are horrid! Dotty
I
switched to Zap-a-Gap Slo (a slow-setting version of one brand of
superglue, with fillers) and have had few problems since. . Dotty
My
larger (thick heart) pins are slightly concave on
the back (to lighten the weight, and hold the pin closer to the fabric).
...so I sometimes make an impression of the pin back into the
clay before curing. That way, when I glue it, there is a snug holding groove,
and the pin back is less likely to fall off. (I don't bother with applying a thin
slab of solid-color clay to the back, like some do)
...I use superglue
for polymer clay. It, as well as all other glues, can eventually fail, so the
pre-formed groove helps to hold (the pinback)
...I also use a careful
application of Flecto Varathane over the dried glued area (careful
to avoid the locking mechanism and the pin itself!) Elissa
I
also always rough up the clay where the piece will be glued, and also the
back of the pin back or earring post. Dotty
..put some liquid clay on the metal...
(make tiny hole first?) and push finding into the hole
..then dab more liquid
clay around the entrance, stabbing with a needle tool to "pack"
it in ...Bake... holds just great.
some
of the parchment papers in the US come with a silicone
coating (mostly the recycled paper in the gourmet grocers will
have this kind ...usually says on the outside of the box if it's silicone treated).
...clay baked on it has difficulty holding
findings which were attached with glues and epoxies
...it took me a while to figure why
my pin backs were falling off after using the same stuff to attach them for 9
years. It was fine when I just returned to baking on regular paper on my
cookie sheet. Cary
There
is a pin finding that has a metal loop attached to the pin back,
so that the one attachment on the back of a piece of jewelry can be worn either
as a pin or a pendant.
…The pinbacks are 1.5 in,
and have a double loop in the top for the neckchain, cord or whatever to go through.
The stock number on the bag is 631-240. It is a package of 10. I can't put
my hands on the catalog at the moment, so I can't tell you the price.
….Rings
and Things in Spokane, WA carries the finding you are talking about
…I used
to use those types of pinbacks...but, when the wearer gets a bend
in any of the pin parts, it becomes
almost impossible to EASILY flip that little
circular part around...so...when I found this other type (Fire
Mountain), I decided I liked it *much* better. My customers
do too...also the pins "lay" a little closer to the clothing.
...I use this for items like party name
tags and other small decorations etc. that do not have to stand
up to a lot of time and abuse in order to reduce the expense of making
them.... I do not suggest those for sellable items.
...there are lots of sizes
of safetypins too. PöRRö
Pins
(see
above for attaching to pinbacks)
NOTE:
...(most pin photos are found on the
pages dealing with the particular technique used for making them,
rather than in this sub-section. …if you want, you can find each instance of the
word “pin” or “brooch” used anywhere at Glass Attic by doing a search at the Search
Function on the bottom of the homepage.
...(for framed
pins, see Frames > Small Frames for
Pins-Pendants)
Cristel’s lesson on reducing a cane, then using
a slice on a background for a pin
http://home.online.no/~raje/Polymer/projects/tulip/index.html
Trina's pin using a brass frame from http://www.metalifferous.com (back with raised frame?)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=950170&a=8509734&p=43933067&f=0
pins from "canes slices
sheet" (cut out)
http://www.tinapple.com/cynthia/98retreat/index.html
Sharon M's lesson on fan-folding diagonally
a small powdered-then-textured 1/16" thick, 3 1/2 x 3" rectangle
of clay (from which she's removed a 1" triangle at one corner) with a
chopstick, then pressing the folds together near the trimmed corner,
and wrapping several times then "tying" there with a strand of clay
(in a square knot), to make a pin (at joanns.com.. Fimo Clay Pin)
http://tinyurl.com/4fu5v
Another option is a button cover. I made a "pin"
that I wanted to wear at the throat (it has a dangle) and I put a button cover
on it. I wear it only with a blouse that buttons to the throat, but it really
makes the outfit. Sherry B.
(I suppose
a person could plan to wear something that way, and deliberately SEW a button
onto a garment in position for this use, as well.)
Cheryl's
seed-bead framed pins (using Iron-On Pellon and paper) --for instructions,
see Mixing Media
>Seed Beads
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=917835&a=7584423
(lesson) I glue
the I put the polymer piece to a piece of non-woven material (Pelon), bead
around that, trim the excess and finish the back by reinforcing with glued
on thin cardboard which is then backed by fabric or suede.
My question to anyone who uses beads with Polymer clay is how would
one attach a pin back to a contruction like this?
I've made several pins like
this and I cut slits in the suede, slip the the pin clasp and the pin 'arm' thru
the slits and then glue the pinback to the cardboard or whatever that's hidden
behind. It make a very neat finish. I also whip stitch the suede to
the nonwoven backing and it finishes the edges nicely as well. Carolyn
Jane Pollack's "batiked" egg front ovals...
like lightweight oval cabochons…she cuts and oval shape from front of an
egg with Dremel & epoxys the back, to use as pin or earrings (or pendants)
...she puts a kind of mosaic look on the oval (but hers are actual batik)
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_8191,00.html
Alison Ingham’s ancient-look
pins, mixed media, clay gun extrusions, stones, etc.
http://www.tinymicejewellery.com
(click Enter... then click on Brooches for
many more)
*LadysMaidJewels Medieval, Renaissance, etc.,
pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder and jewels
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/Polymer/polymer.html
Mary’s pins, including window
pins, stained glass, etc.
http://jackmaryetc.com/claypin.htm
Lisa’s assemblage pins
http://fragments.iwarp.com/jewelry.html
Dayle's
"openable book" pins, hinged with cording
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1751472&a=32123747&p=73924301
CD shards
used for making pins (Sally) -- lessons
http://www.rubberstampsclub.com/tips/cd-pins.html (covered with UTEE)
http://www.ruthannzaroff.com/mirkwooddesigns/cdpins.htm
mixed media, feathers
(more on CD's and their shards in Onlay & Covering)
http://www.itsallinmyhead.net/vase_pins.htm
...I also have some pins that may
have the same problem.... Sue
Scarf Holder
…would it be possible for you to attach your transfer
to a "scarf tube" made of clay? I saw some scarf tubes
in catalogs lately and think they could be made by baking your clay around a cylinder
of the right diameter and then attaching it to your transfer. I don't know
the shape of your transfer, but you might even want to bake some wire into the
scarf tube to use to attach to your transfer after baking. Here's a url for a
site that carries scarf tubes so you can see what I'm talking about. http://yougottahaveit.com/eltubscar.html
To
wear the tube on her shoulder, your friend would simply thread each end of the
scarf through in opposite directions. Once you decide on how big around you want
the tube to be, you could build a "form" for it out of heavy paper,
like card stock, and scotch tape. You could even embellish the tube to compliment
your transfer, as I'm sure some of the tube would show. Marti
Jenny's scarf rings (holders)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=45617&a=496733&p=13686923
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399580,00.html
http://www.tonjastreasures.com/jewelry3/jewelry3.html
Connie's
partial blooms (indiv. cane slice onlay method) on paddle-shaped earrings
http://users.adelphia.net/~cclaycreations/Gallery/swaps/ConnieS.JPG
*LadysMaidJewels Medieval, Renaissance, Tudor,
etc., pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder and jewels
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/Polymer/polymer.html
(gone)
Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry;
necklaces & chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems
http://www.parrishrelics.com/catalog.html
Heather
R's lesson on making self-coiled loops to insert into the top of danglies
(or earrings) (Tropical Goldfish Necklace)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_tropfishjewelry.htm
Nanetta's
lesson on using a length of wire to pass vertically through
a pendant or earring... she makes a simple coil at the top and also
at the bottom to hang a dangly on
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_EgyptianEarrings.htm
connecting
bead-and-wire components together as components
http://www.beadshop.com/learnonline/techniques/earringconstruction.aspx
...Roll a small ball of clay and flatten it out into a circle. ...Poke
the metal post through the middle of it, run it thru to the end, sit it (wide
end down, of course) down on your baking tray and smoosh the clay down nice &
even, so that the circle of clay is now flat on the tray with the post pointing
up...bake it with your earring piece and glue them together after they're cooled.
...also
see methods for adhering polymer clay to metal findings like
earring posts, above under "Pinbacks" (more detail)
http://secure.oxatis.com/PBSCCatalog.asp?CatID=47411
..."ear
buckles" with steel stems http://secure.oxatis.com/PBSCCatalog.asp?CatID=47413
Are your ear cuffs made of polymer clay? Do you put wire inside
the cuffs?
...no wire... just a "C" of polymer clay. PC is
nice for ear cuffs because it's relatively lightweight. Carrie
http://www.artbeads.com/howtofianden.html
..long
"string" of chain (or other material, usually metal) which is threaded
through an earlobe, then hangs down on both sides of
the lobe ..held in place by friction
....
....they vary come in diff.
lengths and vary as to additions, stiff areas, etc.
....if it's
mostly chain, it can be pulled through to any length
........could also use tiny clay bits... or tiny clay tube
beads??
.......dangles can be attached (temporarily or permanenty)
on the free end
....one whole side could be stiff and decorative... one
had a stiff U in the middle for resting in the hole
...comfortable
because the tiny chains are very lightweight, flat and flexible
...sterling
silver or ___gold
...for those with multiple piercings... loops, wraps,
and weaves can be created by threading any way you want through any number of
holes
Earstrings®
http://www.earstrings.com/earstrings_101.htm
(many photos of movie stars wearing them)
There
is controversy over whether and how to use
plug earrings made from polymer clay in stretched earlobes
....some feel
it's okay to use polymer clay for plugs
......... there are ways though to avoid having lobes comes
in direct contact with the clay (see below)
....some feel that it's never
okay to use polymer clay in any way in stretched earlobes, ever, period
if direct contact
(guidelines):
......most agree that it's not okay to use (even baked)
clay anytime before skin is completely healed,
just in case there's any ingredient in the clay which has not
been completely cured all the way to the center and made inert so
that it could leach out --especially
over time
......
......many agree
that it's probably not okay to leave baked clay in earlobes
for too long at a time (espeically since sleeping
can pull on the lobes and plugs)
"ear skins" (silicone
tubes, flared at each end... come in various sizes and colors)
http://images.google.com/images?sourceid=navclient&ie=UTF-8&rls=GGLC,GGLC:1969-53,GGLC:en&q=%22ear+skins%22
....silicone
eyelets that are rounded so it looks like you're holes are bigger...then I wear
smaller-sized jewelry through the earskins. chibii
PTFE Tape
(Teflon-type tape)
...if i were to wear my plugs
for a longer period, i'd wrap them in PTFE/teflon tape... also
...I
always wrap the area that touches my skin with ptfe tape
......my tape sticks the same
way cling wrap does... sticks only to itself
......ptfe is the most biocompatible product
around... it's safer than titanium.
...PTFE film tapes
are "chemically resistant"
...some PTFE tapes seem to come with a thin layer of pressure-sensitive
silicone (which should cling to itself), which should also be safe
......
....the tape does work too (I've stretched with it, putting layers
on gradually), but it does require a lot of changing because it gets gross. chicii
...i've
also used PTFE tape also for wrapping plugs to increase their gauge. crescentfresh
...(note: If PTFE film tape is exposed to temperatures
above 400°F, small quantities of hazardous vapors may be released)
Other Ways to avoid direct contact:
.....decorate plain stainless steel, titanium, glass, etc...one
can get slightly flawed jewelry really cheap at some body jewelry shops then customize
the parts that do not contact skin with polymer clay. VirgoWolf
.....get some tunnels and fill 'em. VirgoWolf
.....add clay only to the out-facing ends of safe plugs ...and/or
dangle clay from the ends
.....have just the parts of the plug actually
in the lobe be metal or another totally safe material...then make the
clay parts of the plugs extend outward, or even curl around, outside the lobe's
skin.
....The best way I've found to get beads not to spin is to take needle-nosed
pliers and bend the part of the headpin that will be inside the bead hole into
a slight zigzag shape. As I pull it into the bead hole, the points of the
zigzags kind of seat themselves into the more flexible polymer of the bead. This
has worked really well for me with all sizes and shapes of polymer
beads. Julia S
earring "trees" and stands and displays
... mybasic strategy
is to start off with regular old baling wire. I twist and branch off the
wires to create a 'wire' tree. Then I apply the polymer clay to the substructure
made of the wire, leaving a little wire at the end of each branch then making
that end a little hook. . . tjturner
...mine is a flat piece of clay
baked part way around on a coke can; then I added the base at the bottom and baked
again; it's open in the back (a freestanding, curved, shield-shape
with onlays and holes for the earrings). . . The finish is a combination
of rub 'n' buff and some very thin acrylic paint on top of it for
the tones. BriAnna
http://briannashultz.com/eartree.jpg
...Celie's "stands"
for earrings... she curves slightly a long heavy wire and forms one end
into a loose spiral... two wires like this are placed into a polymer
base (and crisscrossed in the curved areas once or twice for design purposes)
http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_2002_2000.htm#
...Mags' 2 heavy wires, pressed into clay-covered wood base (or
all clay).. pulled together with bead or wire wrap (twice), then extend
outward (as arms) with simple hook on end (to hold 2 earrings)
http://www.vtcrafts.net/pages/739937/index.htm
wire display "trees" from which to hang/display small
items (bundled wires in base...spray up and out, ending in open spirals) ...basic
arrangment is "fountain," tiered, natural, etc.
http://www.finehomedisplays.com/ornamenttreestands.asp
...Michelle R's lesson on making a Native American figure standing
on a (clay-covered) wood base, with a long wire (spear) held horizontally and
another thick wire something-or-other extending horizontally from the head
to hang earrings on ... the simple body is made from strong wire (14 gauge), with
2 sheets of patterned clay wrapped around it for clothing (pattern for upper part
not shown?), with a clay face added
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_accessories_other/article/0,,HGTV_3226_3857546,00.html
...Thumbelina made a 4-5" saguaro cactus with a large
sombrero to hold some of her jewelry...her rings hang over
it's "arms," and her post earrings fit through holes
in the hat brim (figure is top heavy so is created on a base, which could
be a bit wider)... made from Model Magic but would be better from polymer clay
...the trunk could be polymer clay formed around a bunch of twisted wires, with
each wire bent down to make an arm at the proper height, or you also could tightly
wrap aluminum foil around the wire(s) if you want, to save clay... just don't
leave air pockets.With an armature inside the saguaro couod be fairly tall and
thin because it would be strong ... it might need a reasonably wide base though
to compensate for the wide hat so it wouldn't tump over! Diane B.
http://www.craftster.org/pictures/data/500/23760DSCN0238.jpg
Donna Kato's lesson on covering a non-flat
wood frame with long strips of clay (then cane slices?) over a coating of
dried permanent white glue
...after baking she glues a piece of wire mesh
(window screen, with edges folded back first) in the frame to hang earrings from
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_other/article/0,1789,HGTV_3239_1370872,00.html
http://www.tinymicejewellery.com/
Liz's various flat shapes earrings
http://www.libzoid.com/Earrings.html
unusual “earring pins” …embellished wire rising into outer curve of ear,
from regular ear hole
http://www.earfashions.com/Category.cfm?CatID=5
...hypoallergenic usually just means that there is no nickel
in them (what causes problems in most people). Some things labeled surgical
stainless steel are labled hypoallergenic even lots of them have
nickle ....so it really depends on how severe the allergy is. ... plastic earwires
are damn near impossible to find..... sterling silver is kind of expensive,
but worth it ... or a nice coat of clear nail polish keeps the itchies away for
a few months until it wears off and you have to reapply it. something weird
and tips on earring "stops",
etc., see Wire
I make a big rectangular cane... (approx a little
smaller than the barrettes)... I cut a slice and put it through the thickest
setting of the pasta maker... This gives me a thin barrette size
piece... (I had to do allot of trial and error to get a sense as to what
the right size of the cane should be and how thick to cut the slice...)
…I
put the strip of clay on the top of the barrette, then flip it over. . . . For
the back, I use # 3 sheets of clay sliced narrow, to cover the edges
of the barrette finding (half of each strip is on metal, the other
half adheres to the back of the clay; I put some on the ends too). Then I
smooth it out and bake, decorative side up. The clay stays put, no need
for glue, and is very nicely finished.
Baking on the barrette back is important…. I
used to bake then glue, now I enclose the back with clay
and bake.
I make a slab of the thickest setting on the
pasta machine and decorate the surface in various ways with canes together
to eliminate gaps, and put the whole thing through the pasta machine again
so it is all in one piece. Then I cut the barrette top out of this sheet. I usually end up with 4
or 5 at a time. Important to cut cleanly as there is less work later. (I use a
pin held in a pin vise as my cutter.) . . . My "handy" husband cut some
aluminum flashing bent to the curve of the barrette finding to place in
the oven. Then I lay a piece of paper on the aluminum so the polymer doesn't
go shiny on the back (fasten the paper to the curved metal with little pieces
of scrap clay) Place the cut out barrettes on and bake. . . . I glue to the finding
with Goop. Shirley
I always bake the clay piece on the barrette to make
certain the curve stays. If I am going to glue the barrette on, I push the clay
tightly enough against the barrette to build in the ridge lines,
bake the piece, pop clay off of barrette, add glue (either zapagap
or E6000) and put pieces back together. Jeannine
for strong barrettes ...these cost more, but
I always buy metal barette backs imprinted with "Made in France"...
don't confuse these with "French-style"
barrette backs which are made in Taiwan (and cheaper) ... there's a strip of metal
that can pop out of place in the back
...the French-made backs are much much
stronger and more durable (and are all one piece)... I've never had
one come apart. To demonstrate to customers, I would close a barrette over three
fingers. Ouch! But it illustrated how much thick hair can fit in one of
those.
...I always got the 84 mm, which is the largest, or next to the
largest ...and I buy mine from Rio Grande. Irene NC
ATTACHING ... several ways:
When I made barrettes (and I made a *lot* of them),
I baked the metal barrette backing with the clay, in order to get the curve
just right.
....After baking, I glued them together with E-6000 glue.
Now I know others have experienced problems with E6000 (only in heat?), but I think it's a matter of
just following their directions:
When the barrette has cooled,
wipe both the clay and the metal with rubbing alcohol to remove any oils that
may inhibit the glue action. Any metal jewelry findings you get have a thin coating
of oil on them leftover from the machining process. A quick swipe with alcohol
removes it. E6000 needs to be used liberally or, as on their packaging,
a "starved bond" may occur. Just what it sounds like -- not enough.
I applied glue to the metal *and* to the clay, let them set for maybe
2 - 3 minutes, then pressed them together firmly. Let it dry for
24 hours. E6000 stinks
to high heaven, so do this outside or with a fan on. . . It does remain flexible after drying,
so you won't have a problem with the glue cracking off or separating the clay
from the metal when the barrette needs to bend a bit around a lot of hair. I made
and sold scores (maybe hundreds) of barrettes, and years later, customers make
it a point to come to my booth at sho ws wearing them. Irene NC
…see more
on glues to use with jewelry above in “Glues”
My favorite barrettes, however use liquid clay as
the adhesive
...coat back of clay piece with layer of liquid
clay.... shape piece to barrette
....add more liquid clay to coat the underside
of barrette piece so that there is continuous liquid clay surrounding the
top metal strip of the barrette ---be careful, however not too get the liquid
clay on
the mechanism
of the barrette, or it won't open
and close. Jeannine
~Mia's lesson on using TLS (liquid clay)
to attach a barette back
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/rainbow.html
liquid clay + mechanical hold with clay
..
I place a little liquid clay on the metal barette, then add the decorative
clay on top of that.
....turn the barette over and place a bit
more liquid clay on the metal
......then cover the metal with a flat piece
of clay that covers the metal and extends beyond the metal to
the clay part of the barette. Sally
..When I make barrettes, I use a thin piece
of matching clay on the back side of the barette much like a piece of tape
to attach the barette.
........I also use liquid clay to further strengthen
the bond. ...if possible, I do this in the middle and at both ends. Gives
the ends a finished appearance, as well. Sally
(these glues swell while curing,
so either clamp or weight... or keep wiping off excess that oozes
out)
... they take 24 hours to fully cure. Read the directions as it says there
is a bit of moisture required to acivate.
... I apply the glue to the baked
clay and mist the finding with water before applying it. Be consistent but sparing
with the glue as it will foam up slightly. ...I check them after an hour and if
there is more glue present at the edges of the finding than I want, I will
wipe it away with a cotton swab.
...I wear barrettes nearly every day
and have been testing these for 6 months. I was confident in the glue enough to
take some to a shop for sale just a few weeks ago. Patti K.
liquid clay + wire mesh (lesson)
… this technique works with the real French-made
barrettes, probably not with the imitation inexpensive variety.
1.
Make decorative clay part of barrette in correct curved shape. I
do this by pressing the barrette clay horizontally onto the outside of a huge
(empty) 12 pound honey jar, which has just the right curve and holds lots
of barrettes, and baking. Remove.
2. Put light streak of
liquid clay down the middle of back of baked barrette where finding will go.
Cut strip of clay, #2 on pasta machine, slightly wider than finding and attach
it to back of barrette on top of TLS.
3. Cut a piece of Wireform
screen so it will wrap around the base of barrette finding, and wrap
it so it overlaps some at the top of the base - doesn't have to be 2 layers of
screen.
4. Press barrette finding into the strip of clay you've put
on the back of the baked barrette. Notice that clay squishes up into
the wire screen wrapped around the base of the finding. This is what holds
the barrette on without glue. Trim excess clay right up to the edge of finding
base.
( do a second bake after attaching the finding to the baked
barrette. Bake the second time with the finding side down, sitting in a
flat pan.) Linda Goff
Beth's barrette made of same-size, but two alternating
colors, of tiles...laid next to each other (with one image stamped
across them all)
http://www.polymerclaycentral.com/pcc/swappics/barrerdelac.jpg
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/2004april/barettetute.html
Rio Grande has really big (deep) French barrette
backs --like half circles-- for those blessed with a lot of hair. Sarajane
...yes, rubberbands
can be baked (the ordinary types and nylon (-wrapped?) types which
come in small package with multi colors) ..they will not melt at
our baking temps (15 to 20 min.).... (common rubberbands will smell
like rubber when heated, but do not break after testing) Garie
(.....
...I think
elastics cannot be put in the oven. Christina H.
Christel's lesson on
making a ("rabbit") hair holder, using elastic both for holding
the hair and for dangling the feet and hands (16” of total
elastic)
...elastic runs through a hole in the baked rabbit and then
is knotted... knot is hidden inside the hole (or could be any bead)...
can secure with flexible glue or make knot really big so it's tight in the hole
(...the
elastic simply dangling each foot is super-glued into a preexising
baked hole)
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/0203march/rabbit.html (click on any photo to see enlargement)
http://home.online.no/~raje/Web/Rabbit/full/2002_0201_202602BB.JPG (unfinished rabbits with clothing)
Adria's
lesson on two leprechaun heads used with medium thickness black elastic
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_LuckyLeprechaun.htm
beads
....or rounded cuffs
I'd put in a recessed
shank, and attach the elastic to it with a half-hitch knot,
especially if you're set on using the thinner pre-made elastics.
It would hold well, especially if you then added a dab of E-6000 (or flexible
fabric glue?) where it attaches to the polymer clay.
Kathy N-V
…....Yes, I think I will experiment with that... I have also a lot
of polymer clay beads, that might look nice sewn to fabric-covered elastic.
Christina
....(cuffs about 1” tall --with a 2/3 to 3/4
gap) ...have a loop of elastic connected to a U shape (with
a half-hitch knot) projecting in the inside
of the center of the cuff (...the elastic is then twisted around a pony
tail of hair, and the cuff is allowed drop back around the pony tail)
http://mystic-caravan.com/tailcuff.htm
..I
wanted to attach the elastic after baking, since the elastics
always (at least for me) tend to break after some time(?)
......I also wanted
to be able to change the elastic easily
(lesson) so
I took a piece of wire and bent it into an "omega" shape
Ω (a U with a tiny leg sticking out 90 degrees
on each side)
...... I put the wire flat on the back of the baked and finished
barrette, covered the lower part of the omega with white glue (liquid clay
would of course be better) and covered it a flat piece of clay, leaving an uncovered
loop of wire. ...and then baked the whole thing again.
......to
attach the elastic, I bent up the loop, put the elastic against
the loop and bent the loop over the elastic. (this holds the elastic pretty well,
but I wouldn't give or sell this to anyone, as it isn't very pretty) .Christina H.
.......It seems like you could instead
just leave a small gap between the end of the loop
and the barrette, under which you could shove the elastic circle, but I guess
they're too thick for that? Or maybe the elastic would wriggle out?
......Maybe you could make a clay loop for the back, but not connect one
end of it to the barrette, leaving a gap . . . then add some sort of one-way
hinge or turn thing to act as a gate for the elastic?? There
ought to be something that would work as a hinge actually attached to/inside the
end of the shortened U.
......Or you could also make a lever
or something which would function as a turnable gate (that one would have to swing
open and shut from the base though rather than from the end of the U loop).
Hmmm...more thought needed. Diane B.
...You know how the clips on the
back of clip-on earrings works. If you had a hinged clasp similar
to that that snapped open and closed to put the elastic in, they could be changed
Dawn S.
I had thought of the loop being recessed
because I was thinking more of how closely the barrette could be held to
the head/hair. If there were a large "shank"
through which the elastic would fit, it might cause the barrette to stick out
and flop
downwards a bit like some buttons
do. Diane B.
….there are two things that support the barrette --the
hair and elastic. When I wrap the elastic around the hair, I put the barrette
against the hair, and then wrap the elastic until it is tight enough. This
puts the elastic downwards from the loop, and so the elastic supports the
barrette.
......also, the elastic pulls the hair tighter, so the hair forms
kind of an hourglass form, and therefore supports the upper and lower end
of the barrette.
.....With a thin elastic in a very small ponytail, the
barrette did droop a bit, but not really noticeably. With a thicker elastic
the lower end is actually pushed a bit up, but it doesn't look bad (drooping
would look bad!). Christina H.
What I would suggest is a low-tech way of handling it:
...use wider elastic that's covered with fabric, and sew
it together. It would be different than your original design, but would
be quite pretty, and doable at home. Christina
flat “cuffs” --these
could be like the slightly flexible,.
flat shape (rectangle, or rounded rectangle, or other)
with a hole near each end, through which a stick is
passed (forming the flat shape into a bit of an arch) to hold the hair
... common in the 1960's
---the usually-leather, older types were oval
sheets of leather (or strong clay) in which two large holes were created
(like eye holes in a mask) so that a wood pick could be inserted into the
top hole on one side, slide under the hair, and thread back through the other
hole from the underside to the top (the holes could be reinforced with grommets
or otherwise, or wire mesh could be used to reinforce the whole cuff)
Rebekah’s
and Lorie’s versions
http://www.sculpturefromtheheart.com/hair_ornament_swap.htm
Tonja's cuff with onlays ...short
tapered stick may be clay over wire, or over another armature
http://www.tonjastreasures.com/jewelry2/tn46.htm
Meduza's
various shapes (some geometric, stacked with smaller layers... also butterfly,
etc)
http://aycu03.webshots.com/image/37962/2001197240752141846_rs.jpg
hair
combs --simply glue a baked, thick, flattish polymer sheet or flattened
rod similar to what you'd use on a barrette form to the top of a plastic or metal
haircomb (with E-6000 or another strong, flexible glue)
...I also glued on
s-shaped spirals of wire, etc. to the top of mine as embellishment (superglue).
Diane B.
making tiny flowers (or other clay decorations or items)
to attach to large clothing snaps for hair decorations (Sculpey
may be too brittle after baking; use a stronger clay like Premo or Fimo)
http://www.chamomiletimes.com/crafts/hairsnaps.htm
. . .
I like it!! THANK you!!! The possibilities are endless!! you can wear snaps
on your clothing too if it's thin enuf. .. .
…or how
about earrings with fabric dangles you can attach snaps to?
…….y'think they'd snap onto shoelaces?
…or snap a series of them onto
some beading thread and make a necklace you can change with your
mood! and and and and..... Sunni
Shellee’s hair worms, with string of beads hanging
off the bottom/
http://www.geocities.com/vipaccessories/Hairwormspage.html
We are working on an instruction sheet for the
hair worms. They are really called polytwists, my kids call them
hair worms! They work in all hair types and all lengths longer than the polymer
part of the twist. Very little hair is used to hold the polytwist securely in
place. I saw a plastic spiral hair accessory at a store in a mall and decided
the clay would work great to make it. I have been beading hair wraps that clasp
onto an EZ comb for the hair and that is where I have used the charms and wire.
Shellee
Although I don't have a picture I
could explain putting them in the hair you very simply. . . . You take a very
small grouping of hair in the spot where you would like the hair worm to be.
Then starting at the top of the 'hair worm' start wrapping the 'hair' around
the 'hair worm'. As you wrap the hair around in a circular fashion
it becomes trapped the the center of the worm. It is a very inventive device
to display polymer clay and it even works well on hair that is normally too
fine to hold hair ornaments. One tip is to use flexible clay
for the spiral part of the hair worm....people have a tendancy to want
to bend the spirals and it helps them to last longer and makes them easier for
the customer to put them on. Helen
The texture of the clay also aids in holding on to the hair. I have an instruction
sheet but BJ has not put it on my site yet. Shellee
….(this) hair wrap
is a long thin spiral with charms attached.Teresa
....I make my
hair coils by hand just by simply rolling out a snake of Super Flex
Bake and Bend polymer clay. I was also told that Kato Clay will
also work but I can't purchase it yet in my area.... I then twist it around a
knitting needle and bake right on the needle. I then add beads with a jump
ring on the end. Hope this helps! Carolyn from Mass
...a clay gun could
help extrude your snakes (esp. for thin ones). . . . There is an article by Marie
Segal and syndee holt in Expressions magazine called "Cords of Clay," Nov/Dec
2002 ... Trina
many older/ethnic
hair adornments
http://www.turkmens.com/Jewelry.html
(the enlargements don’t seem to work though)
lesson on how to
create flowers and leaves on (folded, 18" 24 gauge) wire which is
attached to the end of a bobby pin or a metal hair clip (be sure
to get the ones with a hole at each end).. with petal pieces, leaves, from special
shaped beads (Faceted Elegance)
. . . for bobby pin, doubled wire
is atttached by passing through end, then passed by through itself... flowers
components are added one at a time onto one wire then the wire is passed back
through all but the top component, etc....if more than one flower is added, the
wire is wrapped around the bobby pin next to where the next flower will be...other
end of wire is wrapped around bobby pin end to secure
...similar techniques
for hair clips
http://www.thebeadery.com/hair_pins.htm
lesson
Larger beads (polymer
or non-polymer) can also be attached to barrette form backs ...there
is a tiny hole on both ends of the regular barette forms ...removing
at least the "pressure" bar attached to the top can make these easier to do (pull
up then out
. . . (mini-lesson) attach wire to hole in top at one end,
add a number of beads (beginning and ending with a smallish one) then attach wire
to hole at other end (can't remember now if I wrapped the wire around the top
after every bead to secure it or if it wasn't necessary (my barette was beaded
symmetrically: med.metallic bead, solid polymer bead, two rounded metallic
disk beads, leafed marbled bead, the larger focal metal bead in center ...then
leafed, etc.) Diane B.
Omodtart's dark wood hairsticks with thick cane
slice and small beads at top
http://www.omodtart.com/jewelry/hairsticks.html
Kraugomi's
various hairsticks made on pencils? ... and on hairpins
http://monsite.wanadoo.fr/kraugomi/page6.html
Sunni’s wild wood hairsticks with mixed media
(polymer clay, beads, Austrian crystals, feathers, doeskin
and found items)
http://sunnidee.tripod.com/jewelry.html
hair ornament swap
http://www.sculpturefromtheheart.com/hair_ornament_swap.htm
Kathleen M's lesson on making hair
sticks with decorated ends
http://pcpolyzine.com/march2001/sticks.html
*Lorie’s hair sticks with small faces surrounded by (glow-in-the-dark
leaves)
http://www.sculpturefromtheheart.com/polymer_clay.htm
http://gallery.gundo.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=album06
http://www.pbase.com/image/189574
Shelley's beaded (polymer and metal) hair sticks
or hat pins
http://shelleym.co.uk/gallery/hatpins.htm
….Glad you like the hat pins. They aren't a big seller, but every so often
I get collectors who buy several at a time, so I find it's worth
keeping them going. . .
. . . As
a more modern slant, I've seen people wearing them as a lapel pin, or in
a jumper as a pin rather than using them traditionally in a hat.
They also make for an awesome self-defense item!! Shelley M.
many real hair sticks in many styles
(dangles, etc.; most sticks are around 6” long including embellished ends)
http://www.longlocks.com/catalog.htm
(click on each category for many!)
*ways to use hair sticks in long or medium-length hair ... plus beaded-end
hair picks (some polymer coverings?)
http://www.longlocks.com/hairstyles.htm
I made those oriental hair sticks out of ceramic
type (?) Sculpey years ago. They were fun to make, Make sure you use
a heavy floral wire as the armature, that will give it strength. What's
neat is that you can curve the ends and do all sorts of creative looks
to them. i painted mine with acrylic lacquer glazes. .
use a thick gauge wire in the center as an armature..
found it strengthens it quite a bit and can shape the top and body of the
hairstick by curling and such…WyldMuse
~If you build the hairstick over a piece of steel
music wire from the hobby store, it will work. Without the wire, it might
flex too much. The other consideration would be weight. . . .Covering wood
might be lighter. Since I don't have enough hair to have ever used them, I don't
know. . . . Jody
~The hardware store sells piano wire (same as
“steel music wire”?) in tons of different diameters and you can cut it down to
the length you find comfortable. A cut-off wheel on the Dremel works
great for this - just wear safety goggles.
Also, if you have access to any
place that does welding, welding rod is good too. Jacqueline
could sand down some wooden chopsticks to cover?
or use pencil sharpener … or shorten and remove paint from the pointed-style
chopsticks?
…...next tries are with bamboo skewers and chopsticks
cut to the size I want. This time I want to imbed cord into the end with
dangly things in them. Kim
I saw a hairstick idea yesterday that might work with
clay. The barrette piece was formed with strung beads in a looped design
and then a wood hairstick was used to hold (dangle?) it. You could do the
beads in polymer with a matching bead on the end of the stick. Trina
~I recently made a couple of experimental "icicles"
out of transparent and cane onlays.... as Christmas decorations. They haven't
come out exactly as I wanted yet, but they seem pretty strong. They are all Premo,
and about 6 inches long is the longest one.... tapering in width. Melanie (maybe
could be used as hairsticks?)
comb sticks
(two-prong wooden hair sticks, possibly with embellishments on the top end….could
be covered with clay)
http://www.longlocks.com/colorcombs.htm
Bracelets can be made in various ways
with clay:
--one piece bracelets may be made from all clay (solid
rods or tube, or flat cuff) shaped around a temporary form, shaped freehand,
or over a permanent armature ...or they may be made by covering a blank
of some kind which remains inside
--tiles bracelets are usually comprised
of multiple, somewhat thick tiles which are joined with cording (e.g., elastic,
buna cord, wire, etc.)
Either of these types can have hidden channels inside
to hold the cording, can have holes drilled later, or can be connected
with wire or fabric or in other ways
--"charm" or
multi-bead bracelets (with many beads and bead dangles attached to a main
bracelet)
..... faux gold, molded charms http://gallery.gundo.com/gallery/album52/LindaEgyptcharms
--multiple
tiles or cabochons, etc., in bezeled frames or wire-frame outlines
--multiple
bead bracelets can be held together in the same ways as the tiles
--embedding
fabric with liquid clay (see below in Misc. & Clip-ems)
--(anything
else you can think of...
clay strips which are then cut
into individual tiles (...these can be made with channels or without)
...i
make a long strip of clay and decorate it (with one-petal-at-a-time flowers
or something else)... then smooth it and back it with another sheet
of clay for thickness... put it in the pan (or on a tile), cut it (or indent
it into tiles), bake it, snap it apart ... twiggy
(when or how
does she do the stringing holes though?)
"finishing" exposed edges of
tile beads which have 2 or more layers
(bracelets/pendants/etc)
...Donna's neat technique ..she
smears soft raw clay into and over
the exposed edges of joined layers to make them look like one solid
color of clay
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,1789,HGTV_3238_3148256,00.html
(Fig. K)
...to do this, she lays a narrow rope
or a thin strip of clay which is 1-2" long & about the same width as
the two layers together (in the color she wants for her edge)
on the exposed sides... then she uses a firm dragging motion with her thumb
to force the soft clay into, and thinly covering, the entire edge
...OR, she
makes a #1 thickness sheet of the color she wants to be the edging (e.g., red)
...Lynne M's lesson on using thick beads
plus separator beads (for a stretchy watch band)...she strings hers with 15"
of black round elastic (knotted and superglued)
... she may drill her holes
while still in a row (cane is still together but the slices have been cut) for
easier drilling
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_accessories_jewelry/article/0,1789,HGTV_3225_3335448,00.html
...more of Lynnes thick slice tile bracelets
http://www.frajeelai.com/Subcategory.aspx?categoryId=5&subCategoryId=6&page=1
..Tonja's lesson on making tiles with liquid clay decal
transfers on them (using Epson InkJet Matte Photo Paper # S041062)
.....she
also makes a frame for each tile by backing with a sheet of black clay,
then wrapping around a strip of black clay a little wider than the tile is thick...
she presses the excess strip on the front side inward to cover the edges of the
transfer, then presses on a texture sheet and highlights with gold mica powder
....she
then marks and hand drills 2 holes through the tiles (side to side), and
threads with clear 1 mm Stretch Magic, separating each tile with 2 small
beads
(...she also makes an interesting ball and loop connector
for the 2nd bracelet shown with black rubbery cording)
http://www.polkadotcreations.com/books/article.php?id=pdctl01
more
(more transfer tiles below)
Donna Kato's
(newer) 2-step way of making tile bracelets
(with 2 channels to hold the connecting Buna or other cord)...doing
the channels this way has several advantages including leaving a perfectly flat
back on the tiles, etc.lesson:
--Donna makes & bakes various
kinds of tiles first, then later selects which ones to put together
for bracelets ...the tiles she selects won't necessarily be the same width
or height (though they will be the same thickness)..nor
the same decoration (could be transfers, cane slice sheets, stampings,etc.),
though they will be compatible colors/style/etc.
...(It may be possible
to use parts of this method just to create channels or tiles without using the
finishing techniques... but will have to sort that out later...So, for now I'll
just say....
first make and bake transfers or other thin
decorative pieces in sizes at least a bit smaller than the tile height you'll
eventually want for finished tiles??
BACKING CLAY for tiles:
...cut two
long strips of quilter's template plastic (which has grid printed
on it) (or use plain graph paper)
.......make the "tile height"
strip as long as possible, and as wide as the final height you
want the tiles to be
.......make the "channel strip"
as long as possible, and as wide as the separation you want between
the channels
.......cut a small notch in the center of the short ends
of both strips (for later registration)
....create a sheet of backing
clay (#3?)
... lay the channel plastic strip on top of it... using
a good size knitting needle, draw an indention into the clay down either
side of the strip (these will be the channels)...do this twice to over-deepen...
mark notch?... remove channel strip... roll lightly over the clay to smooth
it
....lay tile height strip on backing clay (..and center the channels
visible under the translucent plastic or use registration notch?) ...cut away
the excess clay sheet from sides of this strip...
original
way..Donna's
lesson on using 2-layer tiles (backing layer with impressed
channels + embellished layer)
.....(to make a ghost image tile bracelet
--gold clay top layer shaved after impressing with stamps) from pointed-oval-shape
tiles)
...she places the tiles in a row... lays two lengths of Buna
cord (doubled) over them and presses them in for the channels...
adds another tile to each on the other side.. bakes Buna cording in tiles....
removes Buna after baking to sand & buff.... re-strings on Buna
...
ends of the cord are glued into pre-made holes in the sides of one
of the tiles (she uses a half-tile)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1944361,00.html
3 tiles thick... using 3 removable
wires to create later channels in the sandwich
...I
stamped the (Celtic) patterns on a flat peice of clay, then cut each out as a
tile...After baking them, I used them as templates to cut out two more layers......I
attach the first layer to the back using Diluent
...then I lay the (3)
wires down across their backs, and put the second layer over the wires.
I press it all together, and trim off the excess, and bake again.
...then
I pull the beads off the wires
...I sand and buff the tile beads...
I put the paint on and rub off the excess (antique).... thencouple of layers
of future, and stringon onto beading cord (with silver beads between, on each
cord). Darla
Barbara McGuire’s lesson on making a stamped,
tile-type bracelet strung with elastic cording and spacer
beads ...
...(2 layers) she stamps the clay, then cuts a
8" x 2" strip of it (# 1 on pasta machine) ...slices the strip into uneven-width
tiles
... turns them over and places two metal rods across
their backs.... then adds a second blank strip of clay (#
1 also) over each tile, which she trims around the edges, beveling?) ...does she
press this layer down a bit in-between the rods? (this creates channels-holes
for stringing)... ...bakes with the rods in place ... she removes (all?) clay
from the back of an end tile so it will hide the stringing knots.
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,,HGTV_3238_1375827,00.html
Janet
P's lesson on making multiple tiles from one long strip of transfer
image clay --6" x 1-1.5" wide, #3 on pasta machine thickness
...2 channels for elastic cord created by using 3 strips
of clay (#4 pm) on back side of transfer clay strip... textured
strip of clay (#1-2 pm) attached as backing ..trimmed straight...mica powder on
edges... then cut into tiles (tiles left in same order for stringing)
http://www.diynetwork.com/diy/cr_jewelry/article/0,2025,DIY_13762_3265562,00.html
(if making the channels after cutting tiles)
... It's important to align the holes in your bracelet tiles so
they'll match exactly
.... one suggestion is to use graph paper.. . .if
you work on a glass surface (I do), place your clay aligned with the grid
lines, and then press either knitting needles, brass rod or wooden skewers
in line with the lines on the graph paper. Patty B.
...Notice
how there is a bit of clay sticking out past the
edges wherever the knitting needle pressed into the clay and forced it
to smoosh out just a bit .... trim these parts off ... or the tiles will
have little bumps on the sides. Pamela
more examples
Jenny C's thick rounded square
tiles of faux's,etc, heavily glossed,
each separated by 3 pearls (x2)
http://home.centurytel.net/tkaylen/group4.html
Elise
Winters' exquisite 3-D "triangular" tiles nested
by alternating direction every other tile (or long clamshell, orange-peel fitted
with clamshells, etc.)
http://www.elisewinters.com/work/bracelets.html
Christell's
quarter-pie shaped tiles for bracelet http://www.flickr.com/photos/karooart/357619398
Kathy W's several thick rectangular tile bracelets
(Domino shaped), with diff. color clay layer on 2 sides.... tiles separated by
round beads
http://www.kathyweinberg.com/jewelry.html
Denita's
tiles bracelets separated by pearls, plastic and/or metal beads
(many slice-paintings)
http://www.djoneofakindcrafts.com/catalogs/index.asp?catid=21323&fileID=16612
Barbara
Lang's tile bracelets (silk-screened tiles, but could be cane-sheet tiles)
with spacer beads, strung on elastic
http://www.barbaralang.com/PolymerClay/silkscreenedpolymerbracelets.html
Kim
C's many caned tile bracelets (often with chevron caned patterns),
separated by small metal beads
http://www.tinapple.com/retreat
(gone)
(...click on # 25 in the drop-down menu)
Tonj'a
reversible tile bracelet (transfers on one side of tiles,
stampings,etc. on other side)... on elastic (no frames, like her
lesson above)
http://www.tonjastreasures.com/jewelry2/tn8.htm
Tonja's
"broken tile" tile beads.. patterned strip cut into shapes
to use as individual tiles
http://www.tonjastreasures.com/jewelry2/tn20.htm
Mona
K's trapezoid tiles bracelet with b&w
transfers, crackled leaf, etc. components
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=4153008&a=31269505&p=68361000
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View?u=4153008&a=31266991&p=68340311&Sequence=0&res=high
(including onlaid oval tiles)
Judy Dunn's thick
boxy rectangular tiles or rounded top tiles (like Donna's)...
with no beads between (cording showing)
http://www.moms-studio.com/id49.html
Sigal makes very thick tiles in as half rounds or flatttened
half rounds... she covers the scrap shape on the front and sides
with a clay slice sheet.... then covers the top, bottom and back of the tile with
gold clay
Michelle Ross' tile bracelets with transfers
.....3 tiles thick (tile with transfer + 2 flush black backing tiles)
http://www.polymerclayplay.com/html/gallery.htm
see also Transfers
since many transfers are made into tile beads or pendants, etc,
and have layers added to their backs
.......and half-framing
at top and bottom (arcs)
...spacer bead on one bracelet is one long
oval which nests between each two tiles (which are slightly
curved inward)
http://www.riverpoetdesign.com
(click on Tile Bracelets)
Ginny's various tile bracelets http://www.goginnygo.com
Laura T's tall concave tiles (like apple-core)
http://www.lauratimmins.com/images/Fire%20Bracelet%20Unique.jpg
Eileen Loring's many oval
and rectangular tiles bracelets, with transfers, component caning,
mokume, etc.
http://www.mhpcg.org/member.html (first few photos)
various
shapes of tile beads --with cane slices or micromosacis... (Toops &
Adams)
http://www.lapidary,journal.com/feature/1099str.htm
Laura
T's very thick, double tiles ...each tile actually
2 separate tiles, back to back (no attempt to look joined)...outward facing tile
is highly dimensional
http://www.lauratimmins.com/images/Roof%20Bracelet.jpg
LMary’s tile bracelets...layered clay,
stamped with Pearl-ex, drilled and strung on elastic, separated
by glass beads
http://jackmaryetc.com/claybrace.htm
.......where is Marty's beautiful tile bracelet? , in faux ivory?
(gone?)
...Linda T's raku look on tiles for a
bracelet (using impressions and powders) (website gone)
KimK's
Celtic tiles "belt" has hinges to hold them together (2 tubes
attached to one side of each tile, one center tube attached to other side, which
interlock... she used wire threaded through each 3-tube hinge to to hold tiles
together (could be bracelet if smaller tiles)
http://www.beadyeyedbrat.com/talsbelt.html
Heather
P's single large tile of decorative polymer clay threaded onto a coil of
Memory Wire (through each of the revolutions) as a perpendicular
focal bead, with small beads on rest of Memory Wire
http://humblebeads.com/cuff_beads.html
Tonja's
"tile" pendant made by covering a tiny
rectangular tin (cord runs through upper sides
of tin)... with dimensional "frame" around transfer
http://home.centurytel.net/tkaylen/tinpendants.jpg
Celie uses hollow box forms as tiles in
a segmented bracelet (see Vessels > Closed
Form Construction for one possible way to do)
http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_2003.htm#
http://www.polymerclayprojects.com/miscprojects.htm#Bevel%20Bracelets
....at fancifuls.inc...http://www.fancifulsinc.com/mall/Page101.asp
(for
my rolltop-desk hinge, which could also be used to make a "tile"bracelet)
... I baked the long clay strips (or lengthwise tiles), and then
I baked them onto a fabric backing coated with liquid clay ,
which allowed the fabric-with-clay to be flexible. Jody B.
...this
is a great technique which can be used for a lot of other things such as earrings,
bracelets, etc. as well. Dotty in CA
http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=390
(a lesson can be downloaded from Bead and Button on this page too)
...flexible
fabric for bracelets could also be made with fabric embedded with regular
clay (usually translucent)
..........for the kinds of fabric that
work best, etc., & lessons, see Mixing Media
> Fabric
...
Kato liquid clay bakes up with a shiny surface! No need
to sand and buff, although it's not the same kind of shine get with sanding and
buffing, but still quite good looking. Dotty
I made some bracelets with tile designs from
mah jong sets. Jan R.
. . . her construction techniques for making 3-layer (backing, channel
layer, embellished layer) panel-type bracelets with elastic ...some have
rectangular flat tiles (6-8, or many thinner ones) ...some are baked on
a jar or other round surface... some tiles have separators strung between
them (logs of clay or a bead on each elastic)... some tiles are simply beveled
to nest together better on wrist
......she also shows two-part cuff
bracelets with elastic which are rounded on top, flat on the bottom, made
in half a bead roller (see details on the roller below)...
half-round tiles
Laura T's half-round rod tiles bracelet (....no
backing layer on hers like Donna's though)
http://www.lauratimmins.com/images/Domino%20Bracelet.jpg
add Donna's lesson here ... where are the other examples?
SOLID ... round
Barbara’s lesson on
solid round rod bracelet (...with transfers and additional
little collars)
http://hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_27246,FF.html
Andrea S's solid rod bracelets, with flat noodle
or 3 tiny ropes
http://home.centurytel.net/tkaylen/group2.html
http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_2002_2000.htm#
and http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_polymerpmc2000.htm
sort-of
round
http://www.angelfire.com/ct3/lujs/wavyblade.html
...for strength, you want to use a strong clay (maybe even a flexible
clay or a strong clay mixed with a flexbile clay)
......at the section
where you join your ends, maybe add some liquid clay (that's the place where my
bangles have broken before).
...clay gun ...you can get some neat
and tidy, round or half-round strands from a clay gun, great
for making bangles.
...another way would to be to take a flat sheet
of clay, fairly thin, the length you need for your bracelet, and roll it's
long sides in towards the middle (if you do this evenly, you'll end up
with a long piece which is rounded on top with two rolls underneath
--makes a very strong bangle)
.........if using
cane slices, you can start with a sheet that has your cane slices already
laid out on it (and flattened in)... just turn the sheet upside down before you
roll the sides in. Darla
Twisteeze
has a lesson on making a "rod" type of coil bracelet by winding
two colors of wire around the length of 3 or more bunched wires
(at the same time)-- as an armature for strength/support
... should
be possible to use polymer clay strands instead of the 2 wires to
do the same thing?... could try raw clay strands, or baked ones (wrapping with
the curve)
http://www.twisteez.com/lessons.html
(click on "Jewelry")
ROUND (tube) and HALF-ROUND
I
make round tube bracelets, with elastic cording running down
through the hole in the middle
....lesson: first I create
a tube of clay on a rod... then I take the clay tube off the rod,
and form it into an oval or circlular shape on a baking surface, then bake
...just make sure the clay is stiff enough that the tube won't close in
on itself (refrigerate it if soft?)... I learned the technique from Margaret Regan
...
...could also make half-round
rod or other shape bracelets this way probably
(for more on making
tubes, see Beads > Tubes ...and
Pendants > Tube Holes)
http://www.pbase.com/stargazer/bracelets
......she shows a cross-section of the half-rod with base sheet
at bottom (one of the ways to create channels for cording)
http://www.pbase.com/stargazer/image/11072772
http://www.goginnygo.com/bracelet-class2.jpg
http://www.kathyweinberg.com/jewelry.html
half-round bracelets in two sections
that Sarah Shriver taught me:
..(two long, half-round rods with two channels
running inside them for the elastic cording to hold them together.....she
held hers together with elastic inside so able to get on and off wrist easily)
..one of the current magazines has an article which uses Buna cord
to create the two long center (enclosed) hole tunnels for the elastic
.......I found that Duck Decoy cord performs the same and
is cheaper since you throw the cord away after making the hole and baking.
.... lesson ...
(...you do need
just the right amount of TLS to join the "top" to
the "base" of the bracelet... too little, and it doesn't bond... too much, and
Paul Simon starts singing "Slip-sliding away"... it takes a lot of fussing prior
to baking to get a good result... Jean S.
http://www.pbase.com/stargazer/image/11072778
..Patty B. formed a long, thick strip
of clay with a rounded top surface (with a design) and flat bottom
using a PVC pipe cut
in half lengthwise as a mold.
...I found that 3/4" PVC pipe split lengthwise about 8" long
works really well to form a long strip of clay for a bracelet.
...Since
I was using (a transfer) on raw clay, I started with a #1
sheet of clay as long as the PVC pipe half. I transferred my image onto the clay,
then placed it image side down into the PVC mold (I used a 1/2" and a 1/4"
acrylic rod to press the clay smoothly into the former ...round dowel would
also work if cornstarch is used) ...I
trimmed off the edges that might overhang the edge..
. then I placed a narrower strip of #3 clay down the middle
....(to
create the channels running down the length of the bracelet to hold the
cording,) I then used 3/32" brass rods to impress two
grooves down the length of the clay. . . removed the rods... heavily applied
cornstarch to 1 mm Buna cord in the grooves, with at least 4"
extra sticking out from both ends. ...with the cord in place, I filled
the rest of the PVC half with more layers of clay until it was level with
the sides.
...I carefully removed the now formed clay with dangling
cord from the PVC form. . . .I then used a foil-covered, heavy cardboard
tube cut to about 3" in height as a form to wrap the clay around, and
tied the cords to keep the clay in place.
...Next was to bake the clay
for at least 45 minutes at 275º.
...After baking, pull on one of the
cords from both ends at the same time to stretch it...it should
come free; then pull it out. Do the same to the other cord.
....You
now have some options:
--leave it whole and use elastic
or Stretch Magic through the holes left by the Buna cord
--or cut
into several sections (like a tile bracelet) and add beads
between sections again using a stretchy cord. Patty B.
...OR,
t
.........a
.........even with the
shorter rollers, one long rope could be made by molding each length that
will fit, then overlapping a bit for the next length... may need
a bit of finger smoothing to remove any small indentations)
.......Sue
Lee sells a longer 12" version of an oval bead roller ("Gibson
Channel Tools") which will give a rod long enough to go around the
entire wrist
http://www.poly-tools.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=PI&Product_Code=GCT&Category_Code=MISC
http://www.goginnygo.com/jewelry.html
Nina's flat cuff clay bracelets, with
clay face from mold, etc. inside a round bezel as onlay
http://www.ninaoriginals.com/images/celestialjewelry.jpg
Claude’s
wide cuff bracelet, with wire onlays and a scarab
http://www.chez.com/creabijoux/interieur/GALLERIE/grandes%20photos/112.htm
(gone)
Sharon's wavy clay strip bracelets...
lightly stamped, with various metallic powders
http://www.azpcg.org/documents/SwapSept04.htm
Emily's textured, powdered wide bracelet
as shown on Carol Duvall Show
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1355660&a=10495272
lesson on
..
then texturing, adding metallic powder
http://www.bearingbeads.com/Downloadable%20Files/Clay%20covered%20Bracelets%20ps%20102.pdf
(for more on covering metal with clay
in general, see Covering > Metal)
(or
make your own metal cuff strip --see Forms & Blanks and maybe more
in Cutters > Making your own)
+ 2 plastic templates + and 2 layers of clay
(3 bakings) ...for making 2 channels for a 2-wire
permanent armature (for strength) inside a
flat cuff bracelet, leaving a perfectly flat back, etc
...(this
makes a fairly wide cuff ...if you want a narrower cuff,
change the size of both templates)
LESSON for all parts:
(the following
is a combination of the lesson at hgtv plus a class I had with Donna... my memories
anyway --think some things were left out at hgtv)
..cut 2 strips of template
plastic (or cardstock,etc) ...each should be the length of the outer surface
of the metal cuff
....with one strip, cut a "channel template"
about 1/3 the width of the bracelet form's height (at its open ends)
.......mark,
and cut a small V at the exact center of each end of this template
....with
the other strip, cut a "bracelet template" so that its long edges
are the height and shape you want (must be smaller than the form, of course,
and at least an inch wider than the channel template strip)
.....cut a V
in exact center of each end, as with other template
...BASE SHEET WITH CHANNELS:...place
channel template on a sheet of clay (widest pasta machine setting) which
is the color you want for the inside of the cuff, leaving extra clay on
each side...drag a knitting needle, etc., through the clay next to each outer
edge of the channel template (just deep enough to completely accommodate
a 14 g, wire), creating 2 channels... remove ch.template
...place bracelet
template on the channeled clay sheet, matching the V's from both templates
...cut
around outside of bracelet template (using point of a long blade, etc.)
...place
clay (roll down?) on outside of metal cuff, making sure there is
good contact & no trapped air
...bake 1 hour
...when cool, place wire
(copper if possible because of its softness --she used 14 g. Artistic
Wire) into each channel... make each wire very tight by grabbing each of the 4
wire ends in turn with needlenose pliers, and pressing it around and under the
edge (twist too?) (Fig. E)
...DECORATIVE SHEET ...create a flat sheet of patterned
clay (she applied thin cane slices, as polka dots)
...place bracelet template
on decorative sheet and cut around it more or less ... but to compensate for the larger surface area needed
for the top layer of a curved form:
.......cut the decorative
sheet 1/2" longer at each end, and also cut the sides a bit wider
(actually,
will be
flush in the middle, then gradually flaring to wider
at each end)
....place decorative layer over clay and wire layer, again pressing
out any trapped air
....trim any excess clay... using a long blade held
horizontally along each edge to be trimmed
....bake 30 min.... cool
...trim
wires off as close to clay as possible (even inside a bit) with wire cutters
(if using copper wire, it can also be sanded down)
...sand
all edges with 150 grit (can rub bracelet on sandpaper which is lying on stiff
worksurface if want)
COLOR EXPOSED EDGES, if you want
...see details on this above,
under Tiles (...re-bake for 30 min if you do this)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay_jewelry/article/0,1789,HGTV_3238_3148256,00.html
......http://www.dickblick.com/zz606/10
...flat aluminum strips ....and bender for strips
......Metalliferous carries many sizes and shapes of copper
or brass cuff bracelet blanks
..... http://www.bsueboutiques.com
(1-2" metal)... and? http://www.costumejewelrysupplies.com
......http://www.bearingbeads.com/Houstonarts1.htm
...lightweight (compressed cardboard?), coated for stiffness ...1/2" width
=$.45 ... 1" width =$.55 (Exquisite Adornments Bracelet Forms, Houston Arts)
make your own form
Use paper to draw a form and size to your wrist
... then use paper as template for clay.
......place the clay on your form
and texture the black clay and apply Pearl-X Interference colors (blue, green,
purple) to the different areas. The textures are done by hand, using junk from
around my clay table and garage NOTHING fancy. Bake ON THE FORM, allow to cool
and coat with a thin coat of varathane. . . . I think it's actually in my
new book, Polymer Clay For the First Time. syndee
....mirabel's
lesson on using strip of cardstock as form for cuff bracelet (ends
overlapped and stapled together to create a cylinder) same diameter as widest
part of hand
...(you
can also wrap long ropes from a clay gun around and around, touching .
. . if metallic powders are used to cover it, will look quite ethinic . . . can
also fold down or separate various of the clay rope from each other, add embellishments,
etc.)
....syndee's lesson on using a soda can for
a bracelet form
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/february2001/bracelets.html
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_20799,00.html (same?)
...Soda cans
with a layer of Vaseline for release agent work (to avoid leaving an imprint
of the logo) great as a form for my round bracelets (and oval cutters from
the cooking store work great for cuff-type bracelets). Premo is so strong
and flexible that you can bend the cuffs open to fit your wrist. Plus, as the
clay warms to your body temperature you can form the bracelet to fit.
...soda
cans denting: Yes, they will dent easily. I use this
as an indicator that I'm texturing too hard and may be actually texturing
through the bottom piece of clay. I also put the strip of bracelet clay up toward
the top of the can (because I usually think I'm gonna make more than 1 at
a time on the can).
......What if you created the bracelet on a full can
of soda?? The pressure inside the can would prevent it from bending when you did
the texturing. You'd just have to make sure you remembered to empty the
can before putting it in the oven... Claire
....... If you are concerned about your clay sticking to
the can when baking, put a THIN layer of Vaseline on the can first. Glass jars
would well also, use the Vaseline, if you are concerned. Remember that the item
you use for the mold should be slightly smaller than your wrist because
you add to the circumference when you put clay on the outside. ...So, if you are
using the set of circle cutters for your mold, choose the next smallest
from the one that fits you. syndee
...maybe you could try what I did awhile
back. Take a bracelet that fits you and has a smooth inside, then take
some white sculpy or whatever large chunk of scrap clay and work it into
(approximately) a 1 1/2" - 2" thick cylinder that about matches
the inside diameter of your bracelet. Coat the bracelet's interior with some releasing
agent (armour all, etc), loosely mold the clay around the inside, then bake. I
used an old bakelite bracelet and this made a wonderful mandrel that I've been
able to use over and over. When I wrap unbaked clay arund my mandrel, I make sure
not to press to hard against the mandrel surface. That way the new bracelet comes
away from the surface (after the whole thing has cooled -- very important) with
very little sticking. Barbara
(I've been making forms to build
box bottoms around, using those metal cookie tins that there are so
many of after the holidays.)
... I use tin snips to cut first
down the side of the tin, then around the perimeter to remove the entire
bottom. There's usually a lip on these tins, so I cut that off too. If there's
a ridge around the tin, I hammer it out.
....For a bracelet
form, cut it to about an inch longer than you need to fit your
wrist. Then instead of gluing it into a circle, simply use masking tape
on the inside. The masking tape will hold it closed even through baking.
After baking, you can take off the masking tape and curl the metal inwards so
the polymer clay pops off it. Hope this helps! Irene in western NC
...(or could use for blank)
Make some kind of "mold" of your
wrist first to use as a form for measuring or shaping bracelets?? (see
Molds)
http://www.elisewinters.com/work/bracelets.html
try a scrap piece of Skinner blend ... texture
it and use one color of Pearl Ex on the surface - it's cool!!!!! syndee
I learned from bitter experience that when you give
cured clay an icewater bath, you really need to let it return to
room temp before trying to flex it at all. I broke a cuff bracelet that way. Suzanne
It may be possible to reposition,
curve, etc., some baked clays while they're still warm (for
rings, bracelets, etc.)...more about that process is located in Covering
> Removable Sleeves)
+ watch bands, etc.
Nan Roche’s lesson on making a freestanding
solid clay cuff bracelet as a base
...to which she
also adds a woven clay braid on top (but
something else could be added instead, or could be left as is)
...she
begins with a thick, flatish rope of Premo, measures and forms into a
sort-of oval with its ends just touching, and bakes
http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,CRHO_project_13529,00.htm
(lesson)
--BRAID: Roll several colors of clay into logs
--Cut thick slices of
each color press them together in a new log, alternating colors and making several
repetitions. Roll to make it thin enough to go into the extruder.
(Use the primary color you want to show as the end piece and put that end into
the extruder first--the other colors will be inside the primary one and will show
up later when the piece is sanded).
--Using five strands, anchor them at one
end by pressing onto a work surface, then braid together (same as regular braiding
but braid each strand over TWO strands rather than one.)
--BASE: Flatten a
log of clay the same as your primary color long enough for the bracelet
.....
lay the braid on top of it and roll with a brayer to join and flatten (to any
degree you want).
--Bake the bracelet in a circle, ends touching, on
a baking sheet
--Sand the braid top here and there to expose the colors
underneath. Use a finish or not.
....
.....
(...could use this braid to make a barrette or anything
else too)
...(see more in Clay Gun
> Weaving)
Ria's various beads bracelets
http://home.centurytel.net/tkaylen/group6.html
Connie Fox's lessons how to create a multi-bead bracelet on 16-18
gauge wire, with clasp, etc.
http://polymerclaycentral.com/pcc_bangle1.html
also Connie's
http://polymerclaycentral.com/pcc_bangle2.html
....those or plain watch faces
could also be attached to clay watch bands ...
... since the watch mechanism could
be damaged by heat(?), it would probably be best to form the clay on the watch
(without undercuts, or do in several separate pieces), then remove and bake the
clay, and glue the watch face back in place (a 2-part epoxy glue would
be the strongest, but E-6000 could also work)
.... the connectors
which attach the face to the band-bracelet could be left uncovered, or connectors
... (see more
Lynne M's pendant necklace watches --she
uses watches with a small connector area on each end (could use regular
ones though?)... hangs upside down, and hangs 3 head pins from the bottom connector
strung with thick round cane slices, so they stand apart
http://www.manningcreations.com/newa.html
(gone)
Tracie's framed
watch pendants http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1158358&a=8538929
http://bangertmusic.tripod.com/trufflestreasures/id9.htm
(gone)(see other watches in the Galleries)
....I've seen watches using buna cord as a sort
of elastic also...don't seem to lose their springiness, but a're a lot less stretchy.
Julia S.
...selling beaded watches made with our beads
strung on round elastic from the fabric
store. We had similar problems. After about a year, people would be coming
back for restrings. Mine would end up saggy too,
some watches sooner than others. Right now I still have about a dozen watches
around that need restringing. I always assumed it was the elastic itself that
was the problem. However, I remember the occasional batch of underbaked beads,
too. I wonder if it might have been plasticizer from
not fully baked beads degrading the rubber in the elastic. Hmm.
...I have designed
small watches with polymer clay beads, strung on 49-strand cable.... Spring
bar watch faces have not worked for me, mine have one hole at the center of
the watch that the cable goes through easily. Mona
http://drumdiver.com/janmade/new_page_31.htm
..... http://drumdiver.com/janmade/new_page_9.htm
(she removes the watch face, and substitutes
a tiny photo inside the frame, but we could put a transfer in the
face or even just decorative clay) ...cool idea
http://www.maizehutton.com/maize_buckwatches.jpg
.... http://www.maizehutton.com/maizeprojects.html
Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces
& chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold, gems
http://www.parrishrelics.com/catalog.html
Melanie‘s “charm” bracelets, made with many multi-bead
dangles held with head pin (mostly attached to cord by making
a loop in other end of head pin) in-between tube or other beads on the
cord itself
...woven wire, multiple strand wires, wire inlays,
wire frame-outlines, and
http://desiredcreations.com/gallery5bracelets.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092198.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa030899.htm
http://jewelrymaking.about.com/library/weekly/aa092802.htm
(for bracelet)
One of the scouting sites suggests making make a bracelet
out of fishing swivels …they put (seed) beads on 10-14 swivels, connecting
them all together ….they suggest having needle nose pliers available since sometimes
they’re hard to open.
…Tiny polymer
round beads or tube beads could be substituted
…or the swivels
could be used to hang danglies.
....see another lesson on doing this
at the Carol Duvall show, above in Connectors, "Fishing Swivels"
....
also also somewhere at http://www.desiredcreations.com
?
You know how hard it is to fasten a bracelet onto your
own wrist? I found magnetic clasps at a craft store. Denise
Carly’s lessons on making a multi-strand bracelet
(with a medallion bead), and making your own “end caps,” and making a crackled
center bead with foil and acrylic paint
http://www.geocities.com/lubellebeads/projects/gbproject.html
...comes in 4 diameters
..beads (small, large, or mixed) are usually strung onto it
...for
a bracelet, cut off as many coils as you'd like to go around your wrist... then
make a loop at one end --with muscle power-- using round nose pliers, string
some beads and/or dangles, make another loop... join, close
...I curl
the ends of my memory wire with round nosed pliers. I grip the end very
firmly and then bend the loop in one action. I usually bend it slightly further
than I need as it often springs back a bit.... practice will show how much
extra to bend.
...can have wire ends meet in front,
then connect with focal bead there, etc.
...can use "architecturally"
to connect to other things or other rows of wire, etc... or use for purposes other
than jewelry
...can also mix media on the MW ...wrapping with threads,
or threading on bits of vinyl tubing, etc.
...you
can also put a hook and loop fastening on the end of necklaces with practice.
silvermaid
...or glue each end of the wire into a bead (if
a clay bead, predrill hole only halfway through)
...screw-on
metal beads (caps) can be bought to finish the ends.. may need to use a bit
of superglue to help them stay on tho
OTHER USES: I also use
the memory wire to make Christmas ornaments and hang beads off of it...
then at the very end, I hook a pretty tear drop type bead ...I hang
on the tip of the tree branch, really elegant...it coils beautifully on
the tree. (used to use those at Michaels in California for decorating trees)...
inexpensive to make too. Mercedes
...or use as decorative coils wrapped
around a candle jar/can... or arm band to hold sleeves
up?... etc.
...use
heavy duty wire cutters instead
...and
cheap kids' Fiskars scissors work really well.... I assume
MW will ruin the blades eventually but they haven't had problems yet and we use
a LOT of MW for cheap craft fair bracelets. Leslie
...the
special memory wire cutters I bought
lost their spring after a month or so
...BENDING
to CUT: (very hard to bend)
...Rio
Grande catalog says to just bend the wire back & forth until
it breaks (wearing thick gloves might help?, or use two
sets of pliers?)
...to make the wire bendable, I heat the wire to a
dull red and allow it to cool naturally (rather than quenching)
--it will lose some of its original spring and hardness and be soft enough to
bend and cut without special tools
........ after you've made
all the bends you wish, you can replace some of the hardness and spring
of the wire by red-heating it again but this time, you plunge it
into water or oil (naturally you can't heat like this if there are
polyclay beads on it!) Alan
http://tinyurl.com/yss84t
(photos..variety)
Heather P's single large tile
of decorative polymer clay threaded onto a coil of Memory Wire (through each
of the coil's revolutions) used as a perpendicular focal bead (with small beads
covering rest of Memory Wire)
http://humblebeads.com/cuff_beads.html
Judy Belcher's lesson
on making thick curved tube beads for stringing onto Memory Wire (which
will be separated by metal spacer beads, etc)
http://www.firemountaingems.com/beading_howtos/beading_projects.asp?docid=652B
SUPPLIERS
:
...PolymerClayExpress (3 sizes) http://www.polymerclayexpress.com/wire.html
…TSI 1-800-426-9984 (they also also sell findings, stones, beads,
boxes, sterling & gold sheet & wire, tools, etc ; excellent service, really
nice people, don't need a resale number)
...(on the first few I wrapped the raw clay
around the bracelets to make open-ended spirals and baked them, but a lot of them
broke. It may have been underbaking though).
...The next ones I did I wrapped
the raw clay around the guitar wires, and pinched the coils together at each
end for a little more strength and it worked very well. Julia
...
http://www.creabijoux.fr.st/ (click on Les Creations, then on each Gallery and browse)
NECKLACES
(see
Pendants for medallion/single piece necklaces)
Claude
Delattre’s many necklaces and pendants (some ethnic)… many
are multiple strand
(also interesting bead shapes, clasps,
architecture, fauxs)
http://www.creabijoux.fr.st/ (click on “Les Creations,” then click on each of the
galleries)
http://desiredcreations.com/gallery2necklacesPg2.htm
http://desiredcreations.com/gallery2necklacesPg1.htm
Jeanne’s necklaces (faux ivory, turquoise, etc.)
http://www.jaedworks.com/gallery/blue/index.html
http://www.jaedworks.com/gallery/southwest/index.html
Tawan's many "heavier" necklaces
---large pendants & med. beads along complete length of cording
http://pages.infinit.net/tawan/index.html
(...click on all Galleries)
Emma's stunning leaf necklaces (leaves attached
evenly along entire length) (website gone)
Jenny
P's necklaces (faux jade leaves/etc. & gold mica rhomboids?) (website gone)
Blue Highways PC Guild's necklaces (long tube bead, pendant, etc. included)
(website gone)
*Parrish's Renaissance type jewelry; necklaces
& chokers & circlets, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux
gold, gems
http://www.parrishrelics.com/catalog.html
some
various types of "beaded" necklaces
http://www.artbeads.com/learning-center-ideas-necklaces.html
(click on each for more)
customary necklace
lengths list (jami)
Look at http://www.riogrande.com --I don't remember
which section...
…the biggest consideration about necklace length
is whether it will fit over your head without needing to be opened . . . the other
big consideration is the hole size of largest and the smallest thing you want
to string. … you want to keep the smallest and largest holes as close together
as possible. Desiree
Fire Mountain has pinbacks that have a hook-sort-of-thing
to convert to a pendant. Randi
I have a new necklace- model, a mask pedant
with some beads. I invented it Monday, have made six necklaces since, and
_ALL SOLD_ before I even have tried to sell them.
I've seen pendants and earrings where teeny seed
beads are used around the pieces. I'd never have known
they could look as elegant as metal finishing (see more on this technique in Mixed
Media > Seed Beads).
I agree with your friend that the only place I've ever
had a tigertail necklace come apart is at the crimp, even with two crimps.
However, a tiny drop of super glue over the Tigertail and crimp melts
them together nicely.
I don't like the way TT hangs, so I mostly
use a three ply nylon twist to sting, and triple knot my ends, then take
the ends back down the last three beads, trim, (I like having no clasps
too) and put a spot of super glue or jewelers cement on the tails tucked in the
bead holes, and on the knot. I've never had one come apart that was done in
this way, at least not so far...Sarajane
Tigertail is a fine twisted
steel cable coated with plastic; oven temperatures shouldn't weaken the steel
any more than they weaken your aluminum bakeware … The real question is how will
baking affect the plastic coating on the cable (if the TT is baked inside polymer
clay). To check that, I would just cut a couple of little bits of tigertail
and bake 'em, one with clay and one without. One of my worries would
be having the tigertail fuse to the loose beads on the necklace and possibly affect
the hang. Ulrike
I tried baking the tigertail this afternoon, and so far,
so good. The beads didn't stick to the wire. I took 2 pairs of pliers and pulled
the tigertail end to end and stretched it out, pulling it as tight as I could
with no breakage. Sharon
If you don't like the way tigertail hangs, you might
want to check out Soft Touch, and Soft Flex by the Soft Flex Co.
They have a twisted cable core, like tigertail, but they don't kink like
tigertail does, and Soft Touch is so fine that it's knottable like silk or nylon
thread (not inexpensive though). Ulrike
I just made a necklace using some type beads,
and instead of doing 'wire wrap', I used seed beads in a design to join
the beads together.
(for a quick “bead board”) I make a concertina (accordion
fold) of paper and lie the beads out in a fold to decide their order
etc. Crafty Owl
Better to use two
strands of thinner thread, the neclace hangs better.
Crafty Owl
(for embedding fabrics
with liquid clay to use for jewelry (bracelets, chokers,
etc.), see below in "Miscellaneous and Clip-ems"
...
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/0212dec/0212rosary.html
http://www.rosaryparts.com/pages/instructions/instructions.asp
polymer clay bead rosary, and bit of instruction: http://www.rosaryshop.com/resources.php/request/gallery
supplies and info:
http://www.queenofpeace-rosaries.com
...http://www.rosaryshop.com
...http://www.justrosaries.com
...http://www.beadsfor prayer.com
...crosses
can be easily made from polymer or other molds, if you want one (see Molds)
...for
the "centerpiece" (a connector piece to which both ends of the
cording is attached, and from which hangs another cord with a cross, etc. on the
end. So you could make a centerpiece from clay, adding 3 connector pieces (or
using holes or loops or bails, etc) for attaching the 3 cord ends (or gluing them
in, etc).
......centerpiece a polymer heart with 3 holes drilled in it's perimeter
http://tinyurl.com/bmgkp
http://ecrafter.com/LSARosaries
... or buy a metal centerpiece from a rosary supplier
...
for shorter or wider necks
maybe try a thinner choker, or one with a pendant to give a more
vertical effect
using wire coils/rings & Memory Wire
....you just strung on many beads (or charms), or a single pendant
... or some combination
...they were a large loop of sturdy
wire that hooked in the back
........ I remember that
a large coffee can was the just the right size for wrapping the
wire (about 16" including ends?)
......however “shape
memory alloy” (nitinol), is available from a company
called Mondotronics and has some very peculiar properties, among them that it
remembers its previous shape when bent into a new shape
string beads onto the wire, or hang
dangles or pendants or other things
....
Memory Wire
...this type of wire can be cut to approx.
neck circumference, then be finished either by bending
a loop at each end to hold the beads on, or have a "cap" glued or screwed
on
...or
can cut a little larger than the neck circumference,
then finished with a self-clasp by bending each end (slowly) in to a hook (or
one hook and one loop)
...or by cutting 1 1/2 times (or a little less)
the neck circumference and allowing overlap, then finishing with
loops or caps
...for loops or hooks, bend
.....to
use the ones from Fire Mountain, you just unscrew the ball, thread the beads,
then screw the ball back on.
...gold ones are $1.82 ea., silver (plated, both) are
$1.63...cheaper if you order more
......would be nice to have with different
bead sets to string up according your mood-of-the-day. Denise
..(could it have
been a larger wire wrapped tightly with thin wire, for strength
and interest?)
...Wigjig's lesson on making a (stiff hoop-type) necklace
cord by wrapping each of 3 different colored wiresaround a thin
rod, then removing each and stretching it out (the same amount of stretch for
each ...here it's 3 times the original length)
......then wrapping one
around a second one to nest it, then wrapping a third around the first
two, nesting that one, etc.
http://www.jewelry-tools.com/WJU/techniques/chains/index.html
some
of the rigid metal neck collar necklaces are more of a metal
strip (which may become larger toward the front side)
......these
generally have no clasp because of their size and rigidity ...they just
slip onto the neck from the front, leaving a gap in the metal at the back
...these
can be embellished in various ways ...covered or draped with clay pieces,
ropes, chains, stones, etc.
Since the prints of your
fabric are small, (covering the fabric with liquid clay) would work
also as an inset in a piece of jewelry as a medallion so you could co-ordinate
with specific clothing!!!!!! Think of the possibilities.... Lucille
...If your
fabric has pretty pattern (& you can't get the stain out
of your shirt), go ahead and cut the fabric into 1" and 2" strips
to make bracelets and chokers from them
....coat the fabric strips
entirely in liquid clay... bake in oven for recommended time
...cut into choker
and bracelet lengths... use either a "ribbon" type clasp or a piece of
velcro on each end. Ta Da! Insta-jewelry.
...(this method is from The
Mitchell Sister's book "Liquid Polymer Clay". Great book, great fun projects ).
Karen Hardy
(see Mixing Media
and Sculpting Body&Tools
for more on using fabric)
I
baked the clay strips (like tiles), and then baked them onto
a fabric backing coated with Liquid Sculpey, which allowed the fabric-with-clay
to be flexible. Jody B.
...could be used for wide necklaces as well?
(see above in Bracelets for more on using "tiles")
http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/default.aspx?c=a&id=390
(a lesson can be downloaded from Bead and Button on this page too)
(for embedding fabrics
with liquid clay to use for jewelry (bracelets, chokers,
etc.), see below in "Miscellaneous and Clip-ems"
Cheryl's connected rings
of Super Flex with cane slice over join (in fat figure 8’s) (choker or bracelet)
http://members.tripod.com/~ctrottier/clay3.html
http://www.parrishrelics.com/catalog.html
...for
each row, make knot in one end of cording... for extra security, thread on a crimp
and close it around the knot ...thread beads and spacer beads..at end, thread
on a crimp, make knot close as possible to the inside of crimp, and close the
crimp around knot... repeat these sequences for the next two rows/cords ...attach
the callottes to end-bars... add a hook to one end-bar and chain
to the other (using a hook and chain closure will allow for different neck sizes)
http://www.sculpey.com/Projects/projects_EgyptianChoker.htm
eight
3-hole spacers ...+ two 3-hole end bars
...for
making fauxs of all kinds see, Fauxs-many,
Faux-Turquoise& Wood
http://members.aol.com/arknogy/page15/index.htm
(see
more below in Rods, Collars, Torques, etc.
...some
bead types ... e.g.
.......natural materials (or fauxs of
them) like wood... rock/stone/lava... non-crystal gemstones like
lapis, jade, jasper, turquoise... metal or metal objects
of any kind... leather...ivory/bone...
.......decorative beads like glass, polymer, etc (one person even
mentioned guitar picks)
...... pendants could be anything
...number
and position of beads can vary... e.g., mix of small beads in a row,
beads spread out along cording, a single pendant piece hanging down ...or any
combination
many males prefer colors which are more neutral,
or toned down (earth colors, black, etc.) ....beads which are natural-material
(see just above) ...and/or a more ethnic, tribal, or industrial
look
.......(see also Gifts > Men
for more)
(though younger males may be open
to much more color, funk, and non-natural material
http://www.artjewelrymag.com/art/community/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=13145
http://www.beadandbutton.com/bnb/community/forum/topic.asp?page=-1&TOPIC_ID=8392&REPLY_ID=58967#58967
various
beaded chokers... also "tribal"
... http://www.hempjewelryshop.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=34
(2 pages)
hemp and beads (or pendants)
http://www.hempjewelryshop.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=12
http://www.noeliajewelry.com/hempnecklaces.html
http://www.noeliajewelry.com/leathernecklaces.html
(larger neck pieces)
Pectorals,
Collars, Larger "Pendants,"
Rods, Torques
interesting plaque
-type necklaces by Nan Roche (one wide arc of patterned clay connected underneath
a second wide arc ...the unit attached to (and beneath) a thick, flat,clay rope,
with cording attached to it, so that the cording sits on top of and in the back
of the shoulders?)
http://www.pcpolyzine.com/june2001/clayworks.html
..Josephine's
plaque neck piece with many dangles and embellishments
http://www.mhpcg.org/clayDays/claydays99/jul99/josephine/jose2.jpg
...Barbara
McGuire's lesson on gluing flat decorative clay shapes
onto a leather "collar" necklace
with white glue ( she uses Crafter’s Pick Ultimate Tacky Glue)... she also softens
the sharp edges of the leather (or 5-6 oz. veg-tan leather) piece with an edge
beveling tool (or a flat-ish linoeum cutter?) and stamps with metallic pigment
ink before adding her raw (mica shift) clay shapes... closes clasp and bakes clay
and leather together... adds leather sheen product for shine
....suggestion
for getting leather really cheap: look in thrift stores (e.g. Goodwill)
for old coats, vests, etc., and then cut them up. You'd be surprised what
you can buy for $5! Suzanne
Syndee's version of a
fringed collar necklace made from a Skinner blend (whole) sheet folded
over around the cording to form a tunnel, with the remainder of the sheet
cut into strips for a fringe... with loop & ball closure
http://www.geocities.com/polyzine/december2000/necklace.html
interesting necklaces
and earrings by various polymer clay artists (fringed, multi-dangled, pectoral?,
etc.) http://www.pcpolyzine.com/june2001/clayworks.html
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/crafting/article/0,1789,HGTV_3352_1399580,00.html
http://www.creabijoux.fr.st/ (click on Les Creations, then click on each Gallery)
Marie Segal's various large "pendants"
(flowers, etc.) or plaques with onlays, sometimes folded
over the very thick woven? cording ...some with terminals at
front... often on
http://www.clayfactory.net/marie/gallery4.htm
*Rebecca N's textured/mixed media/gold necklace architecture... one
large oval center piece, plus 3 smaller versions on each side all
attached to each other by two jump rings per side...the final smaller pieces have
a doubled cord inserted through the two holes from the back, then the loop end
is passed over them and tightened
http://members.aol.com/claybecca/page3/index.htm
Becca’s large components gold necklace, discs on discs, wire rimmed,
antiqued, ethinic
http://members.aol.com/claybecca/page3/index.htm
(bottom of page)
Varda's scarabs necklace (& attached double strand
technique)
http://community.webshots.com/album/5633878VQRmhdpZjP (gone?—uploaded someday to PolymerClayCentral’s
swap index?)
...see also Kathy W's large pectoral cross
in Pendants Cording >
Pendants, featuring transfers, borders, chain twisting,
etc.
Rebecca N's choker with
openwork beading & dangles to form a pectoral area?,
made to match a dress
http://members.aol.com/arknogy/page15/index.htm
various
collar-type neckwear by StokesGalleries, dangles, etc.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/stokesgalleries/sets/72157603734300483
....I
used cord that I ordered from Whiteswan http://tinyurl.com/6ckvq...
the knots used in the piece are just the basic knots (square knot, diagonal
double half hitch, and half knot twist spiral)
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/grannyx2002/detail?.dir=7f58&.dnm=9a38.jpg
...Helen Breil's
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=7397957&uid=44783
http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_earlywork.htm
....(
Tania's large long
(thick-walled) curved tube bead strung onto cording.. then large clay disk
pendant hangs from it via another cord wrapped multiple times around
the center of the tube bead and the dangled pendant
http://www.flickr.com/photos/1001artbeads/2080834785
also
see above under Bracelets for rod or tube bracelets
made with similar rods & techniques (how to make and use them)
also see Beads
> Tube for more on making tube beads
(same techniques, just larger)
….and
Damalias snake rod-torque neckpiece ...covered
with mulit-wrapped-bulleseye canes slices
http://www.flickr.com/photos/papcg/2207372029
…rigid,
originally-metal collars of various metals, sizes, shapes, and decoration…also
found as bracelets or armbands
…these are not complete circles,
but an opening is left in the circle; the torque is meant to be flexed
open to put around neck
…often twisted ropes of metal, one more textured
than the other for definition
…sometimes there are decorative elements
such as small creature heads, spirals, etc., on each open end…if
so, these terminals are worn to the front
….or can have some kind
of interlocking ends which allow it to be closed (like what we used to
call “dog collars”)?, or pivots, unscrewable parts, etc.
…worn
by the ancient Celts --Gauls, Germans, and Britons to represent strength, royalty,
mystical power, etc.
(some sizes/lengths): P-13" S-14"
M-15" L-16" XL-17"
http://www.craftycelts.com/torques.html
http://www.unc.edu/courses/art111/celtic/catalogue/torc/Torcs.html
http://haymancelticjewelry.com/torcs_and_bracelet.htm
http://www.angelfire.com/or2/redwolf/torcs/
….I've
made some torcs and coated them with Pearlex, applying the powder
after the item was baked by rubbing diluent where I wanted
the powder to adhere. Popped the torc back into the oven for twenty
to thirty minutes, then when cool, varnished them with Diamond Finish Varathane
Satin (with IPN). . . . After a year of heavy wear, the torc looks as if it were
made yesterday. The varnish dries in thirty minutes, but, depending on humidity,
can take a week or so to fully cure...Katherine Dewey
…....The newer version
I had to leach twice, but I got some good results. I used both, blending
them 4 parts Premo to 1 part Flexiclay to make flexible
torcs that expand from a one inch opening to large anough to fit around
the neck (1/4 inch cable armature makes them close again). I can't wait until
either version is official (Dewey)
....Celies' torques ...one is solid round
rod (with closure)... the other is several rod-tube "beads"
alternated with PMC elements (over two thick wires?)
http://www.celiefago.com/gallery_polymerpmc2000.htm#
clay Chains
Nan Roche’s chain
necklaces
http://www.npcg.org/Gallery/movingforward/moving_forwardfr.htm
Kathndoll’s chains (based
on Nan Roche’s technique?) –interlocked doubled-over loops
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=51599&a=2150300&p=17237019
see Jewelry
> Rings ta’s realistic gold chains, with small links (made by
wrapping a strand of clay composed of an equal mix of Premo and SculpeyFlex around
a knitting needle, making one cut across them all, then shaping half of them and
baking. Shape the other half while connecting them
to the baked ones. Re bake all together.
(via Diane MacCallum’s instructions)
http://www.geocities.com/dutchaccent/jewelry.html
the other half of the links
while at the same time connecting the
Cynthia Tinapple's unusual
chain made with Kemper cutters; she cuts round and squares disks with cutters
(from a created pattern sheet), then makes lozenge-shaped holes with a somewhat
flattened tube, bakes, then cuts diagonally across the bottom of each to piece
to be able to slip another piece through, and closes with superglue
http://www.tinapple.com/oldsite/cynthia/1098neck.html
Antoinetta’s mini-lessons on rings made entirely
from clay
......some made from clay ropes like puzzle rings
with multiple-strand knots, etc.
......some with baked faux polymer
gemstones placed onto the top of the ring, surrounded by polymer
ropes or squished into a circular pad of clay as frames for
the stones
...all start with at least two clay rope revolutions, and
some have more, around the finger... many also have metallic powder (Dutch Accent
site)
...be sure to use a strong
brand of polymer clay for clay rings/bands (no Sculpey)...
she uses Premo or Bake & Bend (Sulpey Flex)
..... baking extra long
may make even stronger, or using a coat of liquid clay on the inside (or
outside)
http://www.geocities.com/dutchaccent/rings.html
... the focal "bead" of the ring is thick metal
finding or
http://www.flickr.com/photos/estela_/326181875
...various ring tops... most cane-slice shapes, some quite
sculptural
http://web.mac.com/donna_kato/Site/Page_1_-_Millefiori.html
(beginning in 4th row)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/51423372@N00/1822345837
http://kimcavender.blogspot.com/2007/11/multi-talented-mixed-media-artist.html
Berhard
Stimpfl-Abele's abstract, all-clay rings, at polymerclaydaily
http://polymerclaydaily.com/2007/08/28/momentum
http://www.marieidraghi.it/anelli_-_ring.htm
....*** look now at? ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itanelli.htm
...3 revolutions
... ends of
wire are wrapped around the 3-wire ring a number of times to hold them together,
then then both ends of loop-wire are bent upward so that they can create an armature
...large ball of clay is pressed down onto the upraised loops and the clay
is shaped into a smooth pad (beginning of the clay embellishment)
...small
clay ball pressed on top of back l to cover the wraps and it's smoothed to the
larger clay
http://polymerclaybeads.blogspot.com/2006/12/heres-how-to-make-rings-this-is-how-i.html
http://www.doveceramics.com/ringpage1.html
http://www.doveceramics.com/Toeringpage1.html
http://www.google.com/images?q=Memory+Wire+ring
http://www.diynet.com/DIY/article/0,2058,6530,00.html
(info and photo) ...gone
...(this diameter
of Memory Wire can also be used to make wine glass charms
http://www.beverlys.com/projects/wine_charms.html
... http://tinyurl.com/yus9q4)
....(see
info on using Memory Wire in general, above in Bracelets)
http://www.google.com/search?q=ring+blanks
...also
see below in Suppliers
I bought a channel ring from Rio Bravo and added
some clay in the channel...(I got it at) Rio Grande.... It was only like
5 bucks ….the widest is 6mm which is what mine is..... I don't think the thinner
ones would be wide enough to see much detail in the polymer clay.... the 6mm ring
comes in ring sizes 6,7,8,and 9..Sara J
http://www.sarajenkins.com/Item%20811-2.htm
....I glued the
flat-backed molded skulls to flat clay bands I'd made by forming
flat noodles of (a strong) clay around a dowel (leaving a small gap for
stretch), and baking... might makes them now as whole circles, then cut the noddles
apart on the rod while the clay was still warm to create the gap ... The kids
thought they were very cool!. . .Diane B.
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l163/DianeBB/Halloween/d99b.jpg
It may be possible to reposition,
curve, etc., clay while it is still warm (for rings, bracelets,
etc.)...more about that process is located in Covering
> Removable Sleeves)
. . When I took a flat sheet out of the
oven, I curved it into a ring for my finger just for the fun of it, and it
stayed in that position. I could have reflattened it, but I decided to
leave it as a ring. This new clay (Kato clay) has some definate characteristics
that sets it apart from the other clays. Deirdre
Monica's lesson on making a ring with a cane
slice, glued? to a band she macramed
http://guide.supereva.it/hobby_femminili/interventi/2001/12/82534.shtml
Thumbelina made a 4-5" saguaro cactus
...her rings hang from it's "arms" (and post earrings
fit through holes in the brim of its sombrero).
http://www.craftster.org/pictures/showphoto.php?photo=7140
LEASHES
for EYE GLASSES (
+
belly jewelry
Rio Grande has four types of eyeglass holders
for purchase in their wholesale catalog, including the alligator-type spring clips
with foam "grabber " inserts instead of teeth. --have a minimum order
policy …
…Fire Mountain Gems has two different kinds of “eyeglass holders”
(do a search for those words)…they also have “eyeglass pin holders” … to wear
as lapel pins (to hold one leg of glasses?)
I make the eyeglass leashes several different
lengths b/c people seem to have different preferences, depending on height, glasses
styles, etc. I would say the average length- the one I probably do the most
of- is 24-25" (including the "thingies" on the ends that
hold the glasses)
http://www.artbeads.com/siandpeeyho.html
...hey, you could glue a key ring on
any pin you like, using E6000! . . .I`m going to dig in my jewelry box
now! Sue
...she creates two sheets of # 6 patterned
clay in rectangle shapes (one end rounded)...
...adheres microfleece
to the inside of each with liquid clay
... sews around
3 sides with long stitch length (tension 2) little more than 1/8" in.....
to hold the thread, remove any sewing machine marks and look more supple, coats
one entire side (with liquid clay, buffs off the excess and bakes
5 min...same on other side...(a rope or other covering embellishment
can be added around the edge of top and/or the 3 sides with liquid
clay ... if so, bake 10 min more)
http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/cr_clay/article/0,1789,HGTV_3236_2219519,00.html
...some plastic
badge holders come with various types of "holes" at top for connecting
to neck piece or collar, etc... one long slit, and/or two holes, etc.
......could
also hold badge by two ends of a chain or necklace (like eyeglasses
leashes... see above)
...Judith
Skinner's badge covers (to hide ID badges when not
in office) polyannie/pins.htmlgone...judithskinner.com?
.......should be various ways to have a decorative
clay piece attached which can cover up the ID when desired
.......one way could be to have a retractable
reel attached to the back of a polymer face plate, then retract it when not
in use
.....
......could also glue
on a pinback, or use 2 magnets to hold badge on clothing
...could use
these or other ways to connect to a belt, collar or other place
...badge
holder with handmade? fancy wire loop at bottom for holding the badge with
a snap strap
http://www.amtraco.com/badgeholder/index.htm
...embellished wire loops http://www.beadazzledcreations.biz/hotdocs/product_badge.shtml
...lots of badge holders, badge clips, retractable reels, strap snaps, etc.http://www.lanyardsupply.com
......KyleDesigns
http://www.kyledesigns.com/category/12_office_gifts.2_id_badges_and_lanyards
...Office
Depot is the easiest place for badge/ID holders. You can order through
them online.
iPod
case (cover) --a thin box, open-topped... in this case also hung from
neck with beaded necklace as a carrier... aluminum foil form used as a temporary
armature, by beadizzygrl
...for photos and lesson, see
Vessels-Rock > Other Small Vessels & Containers
....saw these
at a small craft show yesterday....each was 2 strands of beads (one
strand about 1 1/2" inches longer than the other)....90% of beads small,
about 5mm... about every 10 beads was an accent bead - maybe a larger one
or a star or heart or something else.
...at each end, each strand was attached
to one of those notebook rings (keyrings?) that open up to hold paper...so
it looks like a double strand necklace with HUGE end clasps.... But these get
clasped to the belt loops on your jeans and drape down your hip or belly or butt,
depending on which loops you attach it to. They are adorable.
...the lengths
of the strands varied, depending on size/age... 10 - 11 1/2" for a petite 12 yr
old, e.g.,.... about 12 -13 1/2" for an adult.
The smaller one i bought used
150 5mm beads and 13 accent beads. Of course, you can use larger beads if you
want. Rubyred
...
...
...they sold quite well ...one woman even bought 6 of them in compatable colors
to take apart and make a necklace from! (makes me wonder if I just shouldn't have
set out a bowl of beads for sale!)
...fairly inexpensive to make ....and
fast to do! ....I don't make much jewelry or wear much of it either, but
this is something that I myself would put on my purse or jacket. Fayette
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=5567402&uid=492837
(gone)
...see similar ideas (but
longer) just above in Eye Glass Leashes and Belly Jewelry... and
.... I can see many uses for them like. key rings, fan pulls,
attached to a bookmark to dangle over the front of the book. Kim K.
...up here in alaska (cold climates) we call those kind of items "zipper
pulls" and they are a big seller year-round ...we spend so much of the year in
our parkas, we need something to jazz them up a bit.... I use them on my purse
and backpack zippers too. kellie
http://secure.oxatis.com/PBSCCatalog.asp?CatID=48687
Since the prints of your fabric are small, (covering
the fabric with liquid clay) would work also as an inset in a piece of
jewelry as a medallion so you could co-ordinate with specific clothing!!!!!!
Think of the possibilities.... Lucille
...If your fabric has pretty
pattern (& you can't get the stain out of your shirt), go ahead
and cut the fabric into 1" and 2" strips to make bracelets and
chokers from them
....coat the fabric strips entirely in liquid clay...
bake in oven for recommended time
...cut into choker and bracelet lengths...
use either a "ribbon" type clasp or a piece of velcro on each end.
Ta Da! Insta-jewelry.
...(this method is from The Mitchell Sister's book "Liquid
Polymer Clay". Great book, great fun projects ). Karen Hardy
(see Mixing
Media and Sculpting
Body&Tools for more on using fabric)
Carly’s lessons on making a multi-strand bracelet
(with a medallion bead), and making your own “end caps,”
and making a crackled center bead with foil and acrylic paint
http://www.geocities.com/lubellebeads/projects/gbproject.html
There are special jewelry findings for having things
hang flat against a neck, and they are (at least by one company) called
charm holders. They allow the bead or charm to swivel so it will
lay flat. Charli
PoRRo’s bolo tie http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=215166&a=1590367&p=15473373
...leather boot
laces also work great for bolo ties --you can add clay beads or other
embellishment to the ends. Jeannine
...bolo cords and bolo tips (caps)
at Rings 'N Things
http://www.rings-things.com/Catalog_Pages/041.htm
gold-plating findings are often relatively low
cost because the plating lies on the surface of another metal (nickel perhaps???)
and tends to wear off. Of course some gold-plating is better than others,
but I've never heard of any that, in practice, didn't wear off, despite advertising
claims to the contrary. Gold *FILL* is still fairly affordable (compared
to 18K, 22K, etc.), yet it does not wear off because the gold is filled throughout.
In other words, it's mixed somehow with the other metal. When I started
making jewelry, I started with gold plate, not knowing I had a choice, but I switched
in a HURRY to gold fill and never looked back. Adrienne
Me, too for gold fill.
The economy ear wires at Rings and Things are very reasonable. Good price also
at Rio Grande. Trina
I vote for gold filled, too. It's very reasonably
priced. Most of the jewelry I have made is either silver or 10K gold
filled, with some special pieces with 14K gold. Gold filled is usually O.K.
for people who are allergic to the cheaper wire. Judi
I've spent way more on "jewelry pliers"
than I would have on essentially the same thing at Radio Shack.
I accomplish the curve
by baking on either a piece of curved cardstock (roll it into a
loose tube, then unroll it) or a flattened paper towel or toilet paper tube.
(They retain a bit of curved when flattened.) These tubes are not my preference,
as they sag a little in parts and can cause a distortion in the pin. There
are heavier-duty cardboard tubes inside some plastic wraps, and these tubes
usually flatten more uniformly.
I made those tube beads in a
Kathy Amt class at the torpedo factory. They are made as a straight tube, over
a peice of piano wire, and if you make them just right, they do not crack or break
when bent. Instead they flex. A 4 or 5 inch one that we made
in class would bend right *****around in a circle and could be used as a bracelet.
(DB: or for watchband, over elastic?) The main key is to use
a LOT of Fimo translucent, and make sure it is very evenly conditioned. Then make
the tube thin and very consistant in thickness. Also, it has to be FIMO
translucent. I tried it with Sculpey
. . . (what Sue Heaser said about making slimline pens.. . . When I
pulled out the skewer core I'd baked the "pen" on, the baked
clay was extremely flexible. It can be bent in a complete
circle (and farther) with no hint of stress. I was a little worried about
the floppiness of my pen, but haven't solved that problem yet, as it turned out
to be too slim to insert the ink tube. I used 100% CFC/Premo
clay, **no transluscent of any kind.**
what is hard to see is just how thin the tubes were
rolled on the stiff straight wire to begin with. VERY thin.
My trick is to bake "slowly
and lowly" - maybe 265 degrees for an hour - and then a Pier Voulkos trick:
bring the oven temp up to 300 degrees, with your eye on the thermometer the entire
time. The SECOND it hits 300, shut the oven off and let the pieces cool until
you can grab them out of the oven bare-handed. Awesome flexibility
is the result..
earring holder?. . . How about using a staple gun to attach the screen to a picture frame
or stretcher bars ( they could be dressed up nice!)
I have a texture stamp made by bunching turkey
bag netting and running it through the pasta machine with clay.
From that I made another stamp so I could backfill the impression
with LS. It looks really cool! At one of my workshops, one student went
crazy over it. She said it looked like neurologic tissue. She was some sort of
medical researcher, I think. Jody B.
…Oh, Jody, imagine a necklace
with neurologic tissue textures all over it! Medical students would love
it! <G>
You could make little cell and organ beads to go with
it! LOL! JAN
I purchased my black rubber o-rings from H &
D Distributors, Inc. Not online as far as I know phone number 214-351-1251.
I called my order in & rec'd it in about 4 days. Oscelyn
Ask for Grace there. Oh, by the way, I've never used the cord sold by the
Clay Factory, so I can't compare it, but the buna cord from the Rio
Grande catalog will leave marks on light colored clothing. What I've
gotten from I.B. Moore doesn't. Irene
You can use
the O-rings as stoppers for beads. In other word you could use a very small
OD cord and string beads on it every two or three inches instead of all together.
Or you can space larger heavier beads some distance apart. Dotty
<How does Mike Buesseler get such a smooth area around
his trim?>
. . . . about the trim on my
lockets. I'm happy to share what I can. Although it's mostly a matter of
just attaching a thin, fairly narrow strip around the edge of the locket (or whatever),
the important part, with metallic clays, is to consider that the edge showing
will be dull if you CUT it. So, I use a simple trick borrowed from sewing, I think.
I use a rolled "hem" approach. As you prepare the edging, running it
through the pasta machine, always fold the piece lengthwise in half. This means
that one edge will have that fold--a rounded look--showing. That is the edge that
must face out. When you lay the strip around your piece, make it flush with the
face of the piece, them trim it off in the back. Mike B.
How the heck do you get such a wonderfully even and
smooth frame around them? Dotty.
I usually roll a snake of clay..and
run it through the pasta machine. I then lay the piece I'm working on face down
on a piece of paper..and wrap the flattened snake around it. With it laying flat..it
makes the top edge (the one facing you) line up smoothly with the finished piece.
Trim the snake..and then trim off any overlap there may be above the back of the
piece JAN
for many clay bezels, see
Check out Rio Grande http://www.riogrande.com
for metal bezels.
...Bezels are different then cabochon
settings though. A bezel is like a little tin with a bottom and a cabochon
setting is the ring that goes around the edge (many
people refer to the ring-type as "bezels" though). Rio
Grande has only sterling bezels, but I think they have base metal c. settings.
They have just about everything else in base metal. They don't have an online
catalog, but you can order a catalog and place orders on line. obirtasil
....caneguru
now carries various metal bezel shapes, simple and compound
http://puffinalia.com/bezels/bezels.html
(see
more on metal bezels in Frames >
Very Small Frames)
... also do a Ctrl + f search on this page
Have to say Dianne, cernit is great for jewerly, it
is very very strenght after baking, and the colors are almost translucent (except
the white opaque of course). The better thing is that you don´t have to spend
much time on condition. Gaby
*LadysMaidJewels
Medieval, Renaissance, etc., pendants, earrings, etc., made with gold powder
and jewels
http://www.ladysmaidjewels.com/Polymer/polymer.html
(gone?)
Parrish's Renaissance
type jewelry; necklaces & chokers, bracelets, crowns, etc., with faux gold,
gems
http://www.parrishrelics.com/catalog.html
Christelle's gold jewelry pieces with gems
in bezels, with many ropes, textured ropes, etc.
http://creaplastic.free.fr/03_04.htm
Claire's jewelry pieces with gems and onlays, etc.
http://creaplastic.free.fr/18gal_claire.htm
Eni's bezels, and doodles
of clay ropes with real stones, molded items, mixed media, etc, , antiqued
http://www.oken3d.com/html/indsculpt.html
Claire's jewelry http://creaplastic.free.fr/18gal_claire.htm
old-style crowns & headwear
http://www.parrishrelics.com/crowns1.html
Claude Delattre’s many necklaces and pendants (some ethnic)…
many are multiple strand
(also interesting bead shapes, clasps,
architecture, fauxs)
http://www.creabijoux.fr.st/ (click on “Les Creations,” then click on each of the
galleries)
***
look now at ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itinglese/emonili.htm
***
look now at ---> http://www.marieidraghi.itciondoli.htm
http://www.geocities.com/dutchaccent/rings.html
Alison Ingham’s ancient-look
pins, some mixed media, clay gun extrusions, stones,
etc.
http://www.tinymicejewellery.com
(click Enter... then click on Brooches &
Necklaces & Earrings, for many more)
nenuphar's
M. Briggs' mini-book
with gold covers...encrusted with faux gemstones onlaid onto the covers
(either glued on with faux gold bezels painted? around bottoms, or gold bezels
around each created by pressing stone into a pad of clay then pressing to cover
and coating with gold powder)
http://members.aol.com/polyopoly/misc.htm
Janet's large
"ethnic" silver beads with filigree onlays
(or could be real-metal clays)
http://www.janetfarris.com/images/2005_11pics/images/silveramber3.jpg
http://polyclay.com/onlaid.htm
and http://polyclay.com/eggs.htm
Egyptian,
Greek
http://www.egypt-greek-gifts.com
eBay and etsy often have jewelry blanks and findings
Fire
Mountain Gems. http://www.firemountaingems.com ..retail
and wholesale
...There are other places from which I order stones
and faceted gem setting, but these are the ones I go back to for findings most
often. Sara Jane in NC
Rings
and Things http://www.rings-things.com...
Rio Grande: http://www.riogrande.com (aka River Gems & Findings)…Very
consistently high quality findings in precious metals. Good price
breaks can require large volumes, but they have almost everything you could need.
I love their equipment catalog , too. On-line ordering is still easier if
you have the print catalog in your hand first, IMO, as their web site offers just
a sampling of their huge stock. Great selection and service. ..Sara
Jane in NC .. wholesale only?
Firemountain
is terrific if you buy at their price breaks...also I order frequently from rings
n' things. But I find that I watch Firemountain closely...because often
I get items less expensively there.
Rio Grande, while it has
lovely findings, can not usually beat these two companies prices.
Dianne C.
Rio Grande:
Very consistently high quality findings in precious metals. Good price breaks
can require large volumes, but they have almost everything you could need.
I love their equipment catalog , too. On-line ordering is still easier if
you have the print catalog in your hand first, IMO, as their web site offers just
a sampling of their huge stock. Great selection and service.
Fire Mountain Gems. I think you have to read their descriptions carefully to make
sure of the quality you are getting, but they do have some items that are
hard to find elsewhere and usually at good prices. Great selection of cloisonné
and lower grade stones. I don't use them as much for findings.
But they do offer great service and I have never had problems with returns
if something is not as you expected. Also check the web site for specials.
800-423-2319
http://www.firemountaingems.com/ or http://www.firemtn.com?
Metalliferous (1-212-944-0909) http://www.metalliferous.com ,
anodized aluminum and niobium wire, along with a wide selection of brass, copper,
silver, nickel and other metals (plus business card holders, and other stuff?).
….Metalliferous has slightly better overall prices than River Gems, but I've ordered from both and had good experiences with
both vendors.
Halstead Bead: Very consistently high quality also; good, and well chosen,
but more limited selection. If they have what you need, the price breaks
are usually cheaper than Rio Grande at lower quantities. $50 minimum order,
and they are really still working on their on-line catalog. But you can
order their print catalog from there by emailing them. Outstanding service.
http://www.halsteadbead.com Sara Jane
in NC
Eclectic Etc…..http://www.eebeads.com/toc.htm …beads & supplies
Ornamental Resources...their catalog is a bit pricey, but they have
EVERYTHING you could possibly ever want with regard to jewelry (they have a LOT anyway). They ship quick
and are good quality and accurate with the orders.their number is:
1-800-876-6762 …For orders or for information: 303-279-2102 …. I've been ordering
from them for years now and have always been satisfied.
Land of Odds:
http://www.landofodds.com/shop/findings.htm
earring
findings, magnetic clasps, other findings... beads... reamers, _________, inexpensive
pliers .... other craft supplies
Eloxite Corp http://www.eloxite.com (Your complete
rockhound and jewelry craft supply house!"). . I'm sure you can order your
catalog online and they have 14 pages of buckles. you should find and they
have good prices, too.
Indian Jewelers Supply Co.
…For wire and sheet - gold, gold filled ,silver, nickel, brass, copper - it's
hard to beat in Albuquerque, NM (1-800-545-6540). They also have
tools, display stuff, a smattering of stones, etc. EXCELLENT prices.
Try Dixon Paper Store in Colo. Spgs.
Ph (719) 577-4260 Fax (719) 577-9032
I have found that their
earring box prices are very reasonable. I buy small cotton filled jewelry
boxes there for .25 each, retail. I'm sure they have a catalog too but
I think it costs a few bucks.
http://www.kingsleynorth.com/displays.html (all kinds of display things, bags, etc.)
http://www.lanyardsupply.com
more suppliers from Joanie
AJA Wholesale Findings
http://www.ajaenterprises.net/Merchant/merchant.mv?Screen=CTGY&Store_Code=aja&Category_Code=F
Accent Beads http://accentsbeadshop-md.com
Semi precious gemstone beads and jewelry
making supplies
Ambush http://www.beads2u.com
Provides low cost beads, findings and
jewelry components to bead shops and jewelry designers.
ARI Imports
Inc. http://www.beads2u.com
Provides low cost beads, findings and
jewelry components to bead shops and jewelry designers.
Bally Bead
http://www.ballybead.com
Beads and findings from around the world.
Contemporary Beads & Castings, Inc.
http://www.pendant.com
Offering a wide array of jewelry components
for craft and bead stores, as well as for the jewelry designer.
House of
Orange http://www.islandnet.com/~orange
Wholesale beads and jewelry findings
Johnson Brothers F.C., Inc. http://www.jbfc.com
Manufacturer and wholesale distributor of diamond saw blades,
grinding wheels and drills. Complete line of jewelry metal working and gemstone
working products.
SS Traders http://www.sstraders.com
Wholesale brass jewelry components. Catalog
order only.
Watchus http://www.watchus.com
Manufacturer and wholesale distributor of watches, jewelry components, charms,
beads, crafts and other crafted items.
more WEBSITES
Claude Delattre’s many
necklaces and pendants, bead shapes, clasps, architecture, fauxs
http://www.creabijoux.fr.st/ (click on Les Creations, then on all galleries)
Patricia
Kimle’s jewelry
http://www.kimledesigns.com/jewelry/jewelry.htm
http://members.aol.com/wise1j/page1.html
Antoinetta’s jewelry possibilities
http://www.geocities.com/dutchaccent/jewelry.html
Linda Goff wire-wrapped-outline and other fabulous pins,
etc., many techniques
http://www.lindagoff.com/wire2.html
Adorables' animals & whimsical barrettes,
jewelry, etc.
http://www.lavendera.com/Adorables/adorables%20front%20page.htm/
Sunni’s string of Tibetan prayer beads &
bracelet
http://sunnisan.com/crafts/malas.html
Debbie Jackson's African style jewelry
http://colspolyclay.org/Debbiejackson.htm
Tory Hughes interview (photos of necklaces
& philosophy)
http://craftsreport.com/april00/onlineexclusive.html (gone?)
Google's many results from the search phrase "polymer
clay jewelry"
http://www.google.com/search?sourceid=navclient&q=polymer+clay+jewelry
GONE
or NEED to find new URL's
Karen’s lesson on how to create
a multi-bead necklace & nice wire clasp
http://www.nwpcg.org/feb2000.shtml
(gone)
Burgess' sculptural flowers & jewelry
http://members.delphi.com/MEEBOE/index.html
(gone?)
Jan R's mask pendants, formed over small river rocks
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=222109&a=8737905&p=29086124
*Klew's drum&Aspen beads, leaf pods, necklace
http://www.nfobase.com/html/karen_lewis_.html
(gone?)
*Metro.Detroit Guild galleries
http://www.mdpag.org/gallery.htm (gone?)
*Becca's interesting jewelry
(wire, etc.)
http://members.aol.com/claybecca/page3/index.htm
Olga's people and faces pins, & necklaces
http://sites.netscape.net/olgaayalataino/decor
(gone?)
http://sites.netscape.net/olgaayalataino/wearableart
*Jane's b'fly, canes, earrings
http://www.ur-net.com/jane-purcell/jewelry.htm
(gone?)
Designs By Margo - Handcrafted Jewelry
http://www.starsman.com/margo/index.htm
(gone?)
Cassie Doyon: frames, lanterns, jewelry,etc.
http://members.aol.com/cmdoyon99/cddesigns.html
(gone?)
Lynelle's 3-D triangle bead & bracelets
http://members.aol.com/lynellev/jgallery.htm (gone?)
Black & Gold Swap
http://www.drizzle.com/~caneguru/black&goldswap.htm
(gone??)
Mia's jewelry (mostly necklaces)
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=999644&a=7354262
(gone?)
CZC:unusual beads
http://www.fimozone.com/citizen2.html
(gone?)
Susan’s abstract and some-powdered, some
mokume, etc., pieces
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=40427
(gone)
Celie Fago’s carved bracelets
http://www.nwpcg.org/oct99.shtml (gone)
(SEE ALSO: Beads --and tube beads,
Wire, Pendants, Glues for
pinbacks & other, individual
techniques, etc. )
